Lock Tight

[ZABMANN]

Well...they did tell me to torque one part of my car. That was the lug nuts on my tires!

 

[talon_swift7834]

We always used the high-temp permatex and as was stated earlier...Don't over apply and you wont have problems. Use moderate amounts and proper torque and you shouldn't have bolts back out. I find it very disturbing that your instructors didn't tell you about torque specs. WTF

 

[nate379]

Red 262. It's pretty much all I use if I need to use loc tite. Blue 272 is about worthless.

 

[95GSXCO]

We always used the high-temp permatex and as was stated earlier...Don't over apply and you wont have problems. Use moderate amounts and proper torque and you shouldn't have bolts back out. I find it very disturbing that your instructors didn't tell you about torque specs. WTF

That is the best and easiest way to keep them from backing out. Been doing that for years. I just don't use it on anything like flywheel, rods, mains. But pretty much anything else I use it on. Being a turbocharged car you should always have a tube of RTV on hand.

 

[snowborder714]

Actually, the best way to keep them from backing out is safety wiring

But that's a whole different story.

 

[kahl23]

Well...they did tell me to torque one part of my car. That was the lug nuts on my tires!

If you look at any type of service manual or Chiltons-type guide, you'll see that pretty much EVERY bolt has a torque value. Eventually you'll learn that most of them don't matter, but things like the flywheel, head studs, cam caps, main caps, every other part of the rotating assembly, etc. always need to be torqued to spec. As for loctite, I don't know why so many people have had problem with red, but there are a lot a places where you should use it. As has already been said, a thin line is all you need. I'd skip using RTV as a thread locker. Pulling a tranny isn't easy the first time you do it, but it's not terribly hard either. I suggest buying the Factory Service Manual and a Chiltons, reading through them and deciding if maybe that would be the better way to go. It would save you $550. Good luck.

 

[CoachDavis]

I agree with DougR, I hate when people use a ton of loctite! I bought a used GSX and you could have sworn the flywheel bolts were welded! It's just like using Elmers in 1st grade, "A little dab will due"!

And like Kahl said, do the tranny yourself. It's a great way to learn. Get that hands on experience since you're not driving it anyway. Hey you might even use this site to get some locals to come by and help.

 

[nate379]

Yup. I've had one of the big bottles for YEARS and it's still almost full.

 

[ZABMANN]

I agree with DougR, I hate when people use a ton of loctite! I bought a used GSX and you could have sworn the flywheel bolts were welded! It's just like using Elmers in 1st grade, "A little dab will due"!

And like Kahl said, do the tranny yourself. It's a great way to learn. Get that hands on experience since you're not driving it anyway. Hey you might even use this site to get some locals to come by and help.

I do like the hands on experience and all and at the same time i would like someone that knows more of what they are doing behind me helping me besides my teachers. I would love for some local people to come and help me! But i dont think there are that many DSM enthusiasts around my area with enough experience. :/

 

[dragonfly2k3]

Actually, the best way to keep them from backing out is safety wiring

But that's a whole different story.

As a rated powerplant mechanic and testing for my airframe in May, i know all too well how much saftey wire is a pain in the ass... but that being said if automotive bolts had drilled heads you better believe Id own 2 pair of saftey wire pliers and a few cans of wire

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

yea dont over use that lock tight,

if youve installed B&M short shifters it comes with a tiny package.

you put it on the bolt that attaches to the shifter cable and you pick which hole you put it on the short shifter depending on how short you want the throw.

well just recently i wanted to move it to the 50% throw from the 30% i believe it was since my other GSX has it on the 50 and i really liked it better.

damn was it a struggle to crack that bolt loose that i put locktight on. I no where was close to using the entire tiny tube it came in, i put enough to cover the threads, but now i know that was even too much.

After tons of cursing, a combination of using different tools and ghetto techniques, a few bloody cuts on my hand banging all over that center console as the tools slipped I really got lucky breaking it loose as the head of the bolt was short in depth and it was almost close to stripping to a point to where it would be useless for any tool to latch on to.

I learned my lesson..

Some of you may not be so lucky, well if that's you.. you are stuck with that 30-35% throw setting on your B&M or knockoff.

 

[the_mork]

I've had to deal with a lot of red locktite. The factory uses it on the throttle body plate screws which make them nearly impossible to take out and Jeep uses them on nearly every bolt that goes into the body plus they are all torx head so you find out that the crap works well with very little and that torx bolts strip faster than a $20 hooker.

Getting the stuff apart takes a bit of mild heat and for tough cases this tool helps quite a bit.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[Thomas91169]

It was my first time doing a motor swap and I was doing it in my vocational class and my teachers didnt tell me anthing about torquing. All they told me was to make sure they are tight. So I tightened them as tight as I could.

My teachers completely screwed me with this. My car has been out of commision for the past 7 months for a damn motor swap and I dont have the money for a shop to do it. After the bolts came loose i got a shop to fix the bolts for me but even after that there has been a knocking when the motor hits around 4k RPM and when the car starts. I have no clue what to do and the shop wants $550 to pull the tranny and check it out when they have no clue what it could be.

wow. your teachers are retarded. I hope they paid for the cost to pull and replace the flywheel bolts.

you absolutely must tighten the flywheel bolts to torque specs and do so in a certain pattern. Also pretty wise to use a very small dab of Loctite Red. Its also not a bad idea to buy new ones through the many dsm vendors, they are pretty cheap iirc.

 

[Defiant]

I'm still wondering if he used the LocTite to glue the pressure plate to the flywheel instead of on the bolt threads.

 

[the_mork]

^A good point.

Sometimes I wonder if the 12oz tool is a bit overused.

 

[ZABMANN]

I'm still wondering if he used the LocTite to glue the pressure plate to the flywheel instead of on the bolt threads.

No, I did use it on the threads. What I believe what happened was the bolts on the crank came loose. From what i can remember I did not use lock tight on those.

 

[twicks69]

No, I did use it on the threads. What I believe what happened was the bolts on the crank came loose. From what i can remember I did not use lock tight on those.

You mean the flywheel bolts.... Those are the ones you are SUPPOSED TO LOCTITE! 96-100 Ft/lb torque with a small dab of Loctite Red threadlocker on each bolt and properly torqued using an accurate torque wrench.

You DO NOT impact on flywheel bolts or pressure plate bolts.

You torque them to spec. That is why EVERY bolt on your car has a torque spec; so you don't break them or install them improperly.

 

[ZABMANN]

You mean the flywheel bolts.... Those are the ones you are SUPPOSED TO LOCTITE! 96-100 Ft/lb torque with a small dab of Loctite Red threadlocker on each bolt and properly torqued using an accurate torque wrench.

You DO NOT impact on flywheel bolts or pressure plate bolts.

You torque them to spec. That is why EVERY bolt on your car has a torque spec; so you don't break them or install them improperly.

Lol. I know I put locktight on the three flywheel bolts. I do not remember putting anything on the seven bolts on the crank though. I was just depending on my teachers to tell me that I should torque specific bolts, I had no idea of what I was doing at the time because it was my first motor swap.

 

[snowborder714]

Flywheel bolts are the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank (either 6 or 7, depending on your engine).

The 3 bolts you are talking about are the pressure plate bolts. They hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.

 

[ZABMANN]

Flywheel bolts are the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank (either 6 or 7, depending on your engine).

The 3 bolts you are talking about are the pressure plate bolts. They hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.

WTF Ha my bad. I was just going with the lingo that my teachers gave me.. Well then both of those bolts were coming loose: Flywheels and Pressure Plates. So now to clarify... I did use lock tight on the Pressure Plate bolts and not the Flywheel.

 

[twicks69]

WTF Ha my bad. I was just going with the lingo that my teachers gave me.. Well then both of those bolts were coming loose: Flywheels and Pressure Plates. So now to clarify... I did use lock tight on the Pressure Plate bolts and not the Flywheel.

Well, then you should have read a factory service manual or a Haynes/Chiltons repair manual before servicing your vehicle.

 

[Defiant]

Okay. The rabbit has gone far enough down the hole, and Alice is getting edgy.