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Link SD is owning me.

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Looks like we have close to the same setup minus the turbo. If you had version 3 I could give you my tune and it would probably get you to a closer start. Let me know if you want to try it. Do you run speed density?
In theory this sounds like a great idea and You can actually get away with that on stock cars, and to an extent if your playing on the safe side of things with mild mods...


in practice it doesnt work so well... Especially with SD .. There are a TON of variables that make this not a real good idea.... things you don't ever think about... I.e. Battery Voltage, the lenth of the vacuum line to the Map sensor or if its T'd off anywhere, variations in Intercooler piping, Air filter placement, compression, the list goes on and on... Not saying it WONT work but my best guess would say its not even close..
 
You have no ISC so raise your idle using the BISS, its set for 1100rpm in link so back out the BISS until you get there in the log.

On E85 it seems those injectors like a global anywhere between -60% to -69% with deadtime settings around 150usecs. The difference in global depends on your local Ethanol source, this is why it can be a 10% difference in global settings.

You also need to tune your SD VE map for idle/cruise/WOT so your fuel trims being displayed/logged on your WB match what your DA OpenLoopMaxOct map is trying to achieve. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/395564-how-tune-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-no-maf.html <--- Read steps 7, 8, and 9 to do so. Just remember to do it in that order, don't try to do WOT first or else you'll ruin that nice 2.3 you've got.

:dsm:
 
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Very true. One of our good friends AND moderators comes to mind. Anyone guess who?
I never heard this story and we don't have any Mods in Kentucky so I've got no clue who it could be?

:dsm:
 
Hey man I havent touched the car yet. You pointed out some things that Im definately going to change and see how it goes. Im not in a hurry and just bsing. Its hot in my garage and Im not exactly looking foreward to being in it. But im going to eat and get busy. Everything mentioned as definately wrong will be fixed today. Its not so much of a low idle issue as it is a stalling after free rev issue.
 
Its not so much of a low idle issue as it is a stalling after free rev issue.
I have a "theory" on a cars ability to maintain proper idle speed after a free rev scenario, you ready for this? LOL My DSM is tuned like a champion but it also dies in a free rev on occasion ever since I replaced my ACT 2600 and RRE flywheel to a MUCH LIGHTER ACT twin disk setup. I believe that this too could be the cause of your motor stalling after a free rev, I just have no proof. :coy:

First fix the tune, if it still does it we'll just blame your twin disk... thats what I do. :p It would help if you posted a log of the car idling (warmed up of course) with you free revving the engine and it stalling like you describe.

:dsm:
 
Thanks for that. Just trying to spread what knowledge I do have and trying to learn more myself every day. I read these forums when I'm bored just to learn new techniques and different bits of information.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
 
Looks like we have close to the same setup minus the turbo. If you had version 3 I could give you my tune and it would probably get you to a closer start. Let me know if you want to try it. Do you run speed density?

If your running SD I would appreciate it if you would post the log so I can see what yours is set up as. Just for comparison. Maybe Ill see something that is not immediately obvious to me.

Currently I have fixed my one known coolant leak and I am waiting for it to cure. Gotta go find a crush washer for the transfercase drain plug still. What size is that damn Plug?
 
In theory this sounds like a great idea and You can actually get away with that on stock cars, and to an extent if your playing on the safe side of things with mild mods...


in practice it doesnt work so well... Especially with SD .. There are a TON of variables that make this not a real good idea.... things you don't ever think about... I.e. Battery Voltage, the lenth of the vacuum line to the Map sensor or if its T'd off anywhere, variations in Intercooler piping, Air filter placement, compression, the list goes on and on... Not saying it WONT work but my best guess would say its not even close..

I came, I saw, I got owned.:banghead:

LOL just kidding.

On a side note, I actually have been driving past the gas station with e85 on the way home from school so I got a few gas cans and filled them up, easy quick fix. And it was only $3.24 there :thumb: I'm still debating on putting 55gallons of e85 in the garage, kinda scared.
 
Bout to start her up with changes to tune. Been fixing some small leaks today. It really sucks trying to get under a car when you have a bum shoulder!

Ok so the car will catch and idle but it will stay running when i rev the engine now just takes a minute for it to get to regular rpm. New issue. I had to Lower the SD table ALOT to get the GM/REV close to .27 like it should be. This however has thrown off the boost est vs the omnibar ALOT. Please take a look and tell me what ya think.

Dave from link says that things look pretty good now.

He said "BoostEst is generally irrelevant when running SD. It will agree with actual boost only where you have the SD VE table set to 100%.

The fuel trims shown in your log seems to suggest that the airflow of your engine at idle really is about 0.33 gm/rev, probably because of the cams you are using."


So it looks like I can button up the little things I been putting off and get the car to an alignment rack so that I can start some real tuning.

Stupid me...... I been fighting the low idle because I forgot that there was a throttle plate stop on the 1g throttlebody. Adjusted that and now she has a nice cammy idle between 850-950 and recovers from free reving nicely.
 

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