ECMlink Link gods I need some advice

[mchustle]

I dunno...it's probably nothing. I just can't recall seeing the AFRatioEst track like that. The idle actually looks really solid though, although ISCPosition is a tad low.



Kind of looks like a small vac leak somewhere. I've seen that exact comp curve several times with the VC/PCV valve vented post MAF (or on a GM MAF in blow-through).

Actually that may very well be it I think it may have one of the stupid breathers on the valve cover, so I may need to hook that line back to the intake and start over.

 

[Calan]

It's not that big a deal as long as everything above 150hz or so looks pretty normal. Although you'd like a nice flat MAFComp curve to begin with, that's what the sliders are there for.

Hooking up the VC breather properly (with a good catch can) is better for your crankcase though.

 

[mchustle]

It's not that big a deal as long as everything above 150hz or so looks pretty normal. Although you'd like a nice flat MAFComp curve to begin with, that's what the sliders are there for.

Hooking up the VC breather properly (with a good catch can) is better for your crankcase though.

Ok I'd like to get a good catch can, but I can't afford one right now and the eBay ones don't look like they would do anything . Plus I have a feeling if I just hook the line up to the intake I'm going to have to do everything over from the biss the mafcomp, and if it is not that big of a deal I'd like to leave it alone until I am better at tuning and can afford a good catch can.

 

[Calan]

If it's idling ok (which it obviously is) and you're not spraying oil out of the VC or popping the dipstick...don't worry about for now. Keep it on the radar as something to fix when you can though.

Although to be honest, "starting over" at this point with MAFComp means what.... 2 minutes or so?

 

[mchustle]

If it's idling ok (which it obviously is) and you're not spraying oil out of the VC or popping the dipstick...don't worry about for now. Keep it on the radar as something to fix when you can though.

Although to be honest, "starting over" at this point with MAFComp means what.... 2 minutes or so?

Idk it took a good 20 mins last time. My biggest thing is the stupid biss. Grounding the connectors adjusting and then ungrounding it adjust a little more for the iac position etc. That takes awhile. But it will be on the list, plods we all know the little filter adds a good 25 hp.

 

[Calan]

My biggest thing is the stupid biss. Grounding the connectors adjusting and then ungrounding it adjust a little more for the iac position etc. That takes awhile.

Ehhhh.... you have ECMLink; you don't really need to go to all that trouble of grounding the diagnostic pin, etc etc..

Set your desired idle RPM, capture and display ISCPosition, and adjust the BISS while watching a live stream until ISCPosition reads around 34 or so. That's it.

The point of grounding the diagnostic pin is so that the ECU doesn't move the ISC while you are adjusting the BISS to hit a target idle RPM. But it's much easier to watch the ISC as the ECU drives it, and simply adjust the BISS until the ISC is in the middle of it's range...which is somewhere around 34. If you can't get it into the low 30's, you probably have a vac leak somewhere or too much air getting past the throttle blade.

But if you do want to ground the diagnostic (or timing) plug, you know you do it within the ECMLink app itself with a checkbox ...right?

 

[mchustle]

Ehhhh.... you have ECMLink; you don't really need to go to all that trouble of grounding the diagnostic pin, etc etc..

Set your desired idle RPM, capture and display ISCPosition, and adjust the BISS while streaming until ISCPosition reads around 34 or so. That's it.

The point of grounding the diagnostic pin is so that the ECU doesn't move the ISC while you are adjusting the BISS to hit a target idle RPM. But it's much easier to watch the ISC as the ECU drives it, and simply adjust the BISS until the ISC is in the middle of it's range...which is somewhere around 34. If you can't get it into the low 30's, you probably have a vac leak somewhere or too much air getting past the throttle blade.

But if you do want to ground the diagnostic (or timing) plug, you know you do it within the ECMLink app itself with a checkbox ...right?

Yes what I did to the tee was what I found in a thread on here which was
Ground timing and diagnostic (inside ecmlink) don't really know why I had to ground timing but I did
Adjust biss till idle is at 750
Unground connections
Then adjust until iac postion is close to 30 making small corrections and waiting a couple of mins for them to take effect.
That's what I did then went and did the mafcomp followed by a cruise that pretty much forced it to stay in closed loop by following the demo on ecmlink.com, and then do the mafcomp adjust tool with that log. Then I made you all that log.

Also are you still wanting the log of it locked in openloop or not? Didn't know if we decided the numbers were because of the wideband being in the front o2 or not. Either way is fine with me just wondering .

 

[Calan]

I don't really need to see an open loop log...I was just curious what your AFRRatioEst would look like in open loop.

Sounds like you are on your way. Just spend some time cruising around and running the MAFComp tool to dial in more and more of the operating range of your engine.

 

[mchustle]

I don't really need to see an open loop log...I was just curious what your AFRRatioEst would look like in open loop.

Sounds like you are on your way. Just spend some time cruising around and running the MAFComp tool to dial in more and more of the operating range of your engine.

So do you think I should log everytime I drive it, run the mafcomp tool and see what it thinks for adjustments until it is consistent?

 

[Calan]

I'm probably not the right person to ask that; I have a netbook in my car and I log it every time the ignition is on.

But yeah... just drive it around and log as often as possible, and run the MAFComp tool a few times.

 

[mchustle]

I'm probably not the right person to ask that; I have a netbook in my car and I log it every time the ignition is on.

But yeah... just drive it around and log as often as possible, and run the MAFComp tool a few times.

That's understandable , I haven't drove my car anywhere without my laptop for the week I've had link . I pretty much go wallet, keys, laptop, and power inverter .

Ok I'm off Friday so I'll give it a good cruise and mess with the mafcomp tool some more, and then hopefully it be about time to move on to the even more fun stuff .

 

[mchustle]

Ok I'm back at it finally since the last post I recieved the gift of a massive oil leak so that put a hault on tuning. Turns out it was the balance shaft gear broke the little piece in the middle and that was wobbling around cracked the lip on the front case where the seal sits so oil was flying everywhere. So new timing belt and all seals later along with a bse, which I should have listened in the first place and did, I'm ready to go again. I'm pretty sure I've got my idle and cruise pretty good considering I'm having pretty consistent results with the maf comp tool. I'll have a log up a little later for you all to check out, but a quick question I had was so I load the evo 8 mod one tables from evo8v3settings [ECMTuning - wiki] before I start wot, I've heard they were a lot better but just thought I would ask first thanks in advance.

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, I always suggest using those tables.

 

[mchustle]

Your 1 out if 2 I was hoping would answer that question. Thanks. When I get off I'll get a cruise and post it up but it's looking pretty good to my untrained eyes and Maft comp is really changing anything. And I'll load those tables in there. Might be a fun day I just wanna make sure everything is right before I move on to wot, I have no idea what to do there .

 

[mchustle]

ok I threw in the evo tables, and I must admit I could tell a difference between them and the stock 2g maps. Here are a couple logs the first is a small cruise with a little idle after when i did the maft comp tool and it was a miniscule change. and the second is just a idle afterwords. Please let me know any input you have, and what i should do next, Thanks

 

[mchustle]

Anyone have any advice? Im off tomrrow and am hoping to spend the day getting this thing dialed atleast most of the way in.

 

[snowborder714]

Other than your ISCPosition being a bit high (should be around 30), it looks good.

 

[mchustle]

Other than your ISCPosition being a bit high (should be around 30), it looks good.

I should be able to adjust that without throwing everything that far off. After that any pointers on what to do next? Like I said I want to get as much done as possible tomorrow.

 

[snowborder714]

I would go to highway cruise (70mph or so) and tune that, which hopefully will be in tune or close since you did lower cruise. Then you can start on WOT.

 

[mchustle]

ok i did that once before, but ill do one more just to be safe. I have no idea where to start with WOT though .

 

[snowborder714]

BTW, if you ever find your wideband gauge isn't matching the logged value, here's how to correct that.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/428702-ecmlink-linear-wb-calibration.html

Turn your knock cel down to 2° (Dash tab).

Start with a 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline. Then you'll want to compare AFRatioEst to wideband. You want these two lines to line up all the way. You'll use the WBFactor value to analyze how much you need to adjust the appropriate MAF Comp slider and in what direction. If it shows a negative number, drop the MAF Comp slider the number it shows. Opposite for positive. Save and repeat. In the end, you should be able to look at your MaxOct fuel table and find that both of those values match up with what's in the table.

 

[mchustle]

It seems to read +/- .2 at anytime. I know its not perfect but is that close enough or do you need it exact?
I feel like I cant say thanks enough for all the help. If all goes right ill be tuned tomorrow and get my launching and such down and then its time for revenge at the strip thr, but thats if everything goes well .
Ok so get the fuel and air displaying correctly first and i shouldnt need to worry with timing until after correct?

 

[snowborder714]

I'm OCD so I'd get it perfect.

Yes, tune AF first (while keeping an eye on timing - possibly need to pull some to combat knock) and then once that's set, start increasing timing until you see knock, and then back it off.

 

[mchustle]

ok so when i get everything right up till the timing when i go to increase it, whats the best way to start? IE. tracking the log within the timing table to see which cells its using during the 3rd gear pull or start at 1 and work my way through, thats one thing I havent seen much info on. That may be because it is so simple im the only idiot that needs help .

 

[snowborder714]

Once you need to start working on timing, the best way is to use the track datalog feature and find out what cells are hit. But make sure to adjust surrounding cells as it could vary by pull which you use.