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Lets talk 68HTA

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BlackGSXEclipse

15+ Year Contributor
178
21
Feb 9, 2007
Maryville, Tennessee
Ok, Let me make this clear from the get go, I don't want to hear about a buddies car, your cousins brother in law car, I want first hand experience here only please.

I'm looking for a turbo for my build. I've had my eye on the FP 68HTA for some time now, but honestly I'm hearing that it doesn't live up to expectations and is pretty laggy for what it is.
I would love to run just an Evo 3 16g, but I need something that's gonna keep up past 6500 RPMs.
Anyone first hand with a 68HTA version 1 or 2, what kind of boost are you running and when are you seeing full boost by? If you'd give supporting mods that would be awesome also.

My car is a stock block 98 GSX, Evo 3 intake manifold, VRSF FMIC, FP exhaust manifold, and S1 cams.
 
The information you're wanting is already readily available. Everything you could ever want to know about either turbo is here if you take the time to read from start to finish: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fp-68hta-dyno-results.374097/

I've been through the thread, but to be honest, there's only a couple posts that help with what I'm asking. I'm not concerned about what kind of time I can run at the drag strip, or what the car will dyno. I'm worried about spoil, and literally EVERYONE who posted in that thread is quoting different spool times by quite a bit.
 
I'd say basically just chase any 68hta thread I've ever posted in. V1 68hta? No idea. thinking of the V2? Basically expect the same as an FP green. I've answered these questions quite a few times. Slowed my spool down 800-1000 rpms over the 16g. You running 20psi? stay with the 16g. Running 25+? Get a V2 it does NOT wake up below 25psi, I see you've already posted a WTB. Or you could get a little more lag and have the v2 68hta.

I JUST got my v2 68hta back from a fresh rebuild for FP and am looking to trade for a v1, Or I might get bored and put it back on since I'm running more boost and it will be more responsive then where it was at 20.
 
I'd say basically just chase any 68hta thread I've ever posted in. V1 68hta? No idea. thinking of the V2? Basically expect the same as an FP green. I've answered these questions quite a few times. Slowed my spool down 800-1000 rpms over the 16g. You running 20psi? stay with the 16g. Running 25+? Get a V2 it does NOT wake up below 25psi, I see you've already posted a WTB. Or you could get a little more lag and have the v2 68hta.

I JUST got my v2 68hta back from a fresh rebuild for FP and am looking to trade for a v1, Or I might get bored and put it back on since I'm running more boost and it will be more responsive then where it was at 20.

Yea I'll be over 20 lbs, but I'm not chasing after a 10 sec 1/4 either so I'm willing to sacrifice top end for better spool. I had spoke to @danielsl1999gsx about his and he said between the v1 and v2 there was a 600 rpm difference in spool between the two. That's a significant amount IMHO.
 
I've been through the thread, but to be honest, there's only a couple posts that help with what I'm asking. I'm not concerned about what kind of time I can run at the drag strip, or what the car will dyno. I'm worried about spoil, and literally EVERYONE who posted in that thread is quoting different spool times by quite a bit.

That's because every setup is different, hence everybody quoting different spool times. You're only going to get approximate spool times.

The 68HTA thread I linked literally has nearly every piece of information needed to make an educated decision on which version of the 68HTA would be best suited for your goals, how it would perform according to various setups (approximately), dyno sheets, logs, pictures, personal experiences, etc.

If you're looking for someone to tell you you'll get X spool time given X setup, you're not going to find it. If you want to know exactly how a given version of the 68HTA will spool on your car, buy one and find out. Frankly, that's the only way to get the ground truth.

Lastly, go make a DSM profile. You're definitely not going to get a good estimate on how a certain turbo performs unless we know exactly how your car is configured.
 
I'm looking for a turbo for my build. I've had my eye on the FP 68HTA for some time now, but honestly I'm hearing that it doesn't live up to expectations and is pretty laggy for what it is. I would love to run just an Evo 3 16g, but I need something that's gonna keep up past 6500 RPMs. Anyone first hand with a 68HTA version 1 or 2, what kind of boost are you running and when are you seeing full boost by? If you'd give supporting mods that would be awesome also.

My car is a stock block 98 GSX, Evo 3 intake manifold, VRSF FMIC, FP exhaust manifold, and S1 cams.

A simple search of resent threads would have lead you to the following conclusion.

v1 68hta (basically an EVO III 16g with a compressor wheel upgrade : 47 lbs / min
v2 68hta (made completely from non MHI parts). 800 - 1k later spool: 51 lbs / min

It does live up to its "place" in the DSM architect. It is now, and has always been, about producing the most flow in "stock appearing" form. Which is EXACT what it does (see flow rates above). I had a v2, sold it. A "16g" style turbo that doesn't make boost until 4K RPM is a complete waste, with 1 exception. YOU ARE GOING FOR A BOLT ON, STOCK APPEARING LOOK. That's it. There is literally no other reason to run the v2 68hta. On a correctly setup car, you can hold the torque long enough that it will pull right into the 6,500 - 7K rpm range. I'm not going to tell you how to accomplish that.

Can I ask why you "need" a turbo that will still pull beyond 6,500 rpm?

My supporting mod's where as follows:
90 gsx
3" (no cat, 1 muffler) exhaust, megan o2 dump
FMIC with HKS bov
FIC injectors
walbro 255
fuel lab filter and FPR kits
ACT 2600
HKS 264/272
Manley 22125-16 valve spring kit
FP manifold (ported)
v2 68hta (ported)
FP feed and blue drain lines
Link v3, SD, innovate MTX-L WB
27 - 28 lbs (boost)

Car left the line amazingly, pulled great until 6K or so. Roasted 1st and 2nd no problem. It's nothing like an EVO III 16g though. There is no "hit" like the td05h turbo's have. It reminds me of a the oil PTE
bolt on turbo's (SCM6152 was my favorite back in the early 2000's). Like I said above, the v2 68hta does EXACTLY what's it's built / designed to do. Flow big air in a stock appearing package. For autoX or a daily driver, I'd look for a v1 68hta. For a daily driver / weekend drag car, v2 68hta. My thoughts are v1 68hta = EVO III 16g, that will make peak power past 5,500rpm. The v2 68hta is more like an hx35/PTE 5858/gt3076/FP Green. No td05h "hit", but top end for the weekend drag racer.
 

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Here's the engine bay for reference. Literally went from an EVO III with an EVO manifold, straight to FP manifold v2 68hta..
 

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Couple of the outside of the car. Never dyno'd it. Sold the v2 68hta literally about 3 weeks after buying it. I like drag race my street car as much as anyone else, the 10 times I get to the track. I would HIGHLY recommend the v1 68hta, well setup car, for a great driver / fun weekend car.
 

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90laserRSfwd pretty much has it right. In a nutshell, you're basically going to trade some spool for a bit of top end on the 68HTA V2.

The one other point I'll mention on the 68HTA V2 from my experience, is you won't be affected by boost drop off at redline as badly as you are on the TD05H variant turbos.

The V2 may also net you a bit more knock free power on a pump gas tune with it's slightly larger turbine housing/turbine.

I love the new 68HTA. At its price point, it's a great turbo for people wanting a bolt on option to push past what the TD05H variants are typically able to deliver.
 
I'll back up everything that's been said so far, If I could get my hands on a v1 68hta I would, but since i can't and I don't feel like making a bastard 20g, I'll suffer the 68hta if I don't sell it.

FWIW I played with my tune and gained a few hundred RPM back in the 16g from a cam swap by leaning out spoolup and removing some timing. With the map sensor I installed I am noticing how my boost drops off as I approach redline, it's a bit more then I'd like but with quick spool something will have to give.

Brett, you'd think we'd get at least a week break from having to answer the same question? LOL BTW I think I asked you before but I'm lazy, when are you hitting full boost in 1837?
 
Brett, you'd think we'd get at least a week break from having to answer the same question? LOL BTW I think I asked you before but I'm lazy, when are you hitting full boost in 1837?

I'm having a strange issue with my MAF during spool up (clearly seen in the screenshots below as the jagged f***ed up lines). I've done dozens of pulls, made tons of corrections, and had multiple experienced tuners look at my logs. Long story short, I'm getting some really strange MAF readings as throttle comes up and the turbo spools.

So, given the above, I'd say what I'm about to post probably isn't optimal spool time on the V2, as there's room for improvement in that area of my tune. I should be switching to SD soon, and an hoping that corrects this MAF anomaly I'm experiencing.

I just grabbed a random log out of the 4 million I have. There's probably a slightly better one, but you get the gist. As always, results will vary:


20 PSI @ 3,900 RPM
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25 PSI @ 4,100 RPM
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30 PSI @ 4,600 RPM
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Peak power (~436 HP) @ 5900 RPM
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Peak airflow (51 lb/min) @ 7100 RPM
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Bad MAF? As far progressed as your car is I'm surprised you haven't switched to SD yet, although I'm sure both of those suggestions have been made already. That seems like a high RPM to hit 30psi when you hit 25 at 4100.. Of course you are still on stock cams with that since you haven't been able to replace the HKS intake right?

It seems strange to me how the Omni 4 bar appears to move up slowly and then levels off instead of coming on quick (Mine did, like a lightswitch).. then again It's been a few months since I ran the 68hta so I don't have a solid comparison since I never had a MAP sensor installed when I ran it.. Also I was running a horrible timing table so that wasn't really helping things.

From one of the last pulls I did when I still had it on the car It only took about 1.5 seconds to go from 10psi-22, still maintaining a strong "hit" it was just farther into the powerband then I would of liked. Would I be able to take a look over one of your logs? I'm sure I can't make any helpful suggestions but I am curious to look at it a little more in depth if you wouldn't mind.
 

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Bad MAF? As far progressed as your car is I'm surprised you haven't switched to SD yet, although I'm sure both of those suggestions have been made already. That seems like a high RPM to hit 30psi when you hit 25 at 4100.. Of course you are still on stock cams with that since you haven't been able to replace the HKS intake right?
I literally have everything installed in 1837 to swap to SD, I just haven't had time to re-tune the car. I've been so busy with 820 that I've had zero time to mess with 1837. And to be honest, 1837 is currently running so well, I've had zero desire to screw with the tune and start from scratch. The car absolutely rips, and I'm not in a huge hurry to go dicking with it.




It seems strange to me how the Omni 4 bar appears to move up slowly and then levels off instead of coming on quick (Mine did, like a lightswitch).. then again It's been a few months since I ran the 68hta so I don't have a solid comparison since I never had a MAP sensor installed when I ran it.. Also I was running a horrible timing table so that wasn't really helping things.
Again, these are spool times based on my setup. Don't be fooled, this turbo can be tuned to spool much faster than my logs are showing. The reason you see my boost come up nice and smooth and level off is because that's how I have ECMlink boost control configured. As you can see in the table below, I start modulating the BCS at 3500 RPM, which then begins to taper off the boost. This keeps my car from seeing the typical huge boost spike at spool up, which then would taper way off until redline. If I set the BCS duty cycle to 100% across the board, you'd see much faster spool up, followed by a huge boost spike of 30+ PSI, leveling off to around 27 PSI as shown in my log screenshots above.

This turbo will spool fast if you tune it to. I could absolutely modify my tune for more power and faster spool up, and probably will with time. But currently, this is how I'll keep the car until I feel the need to change it.

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From one of the last pulls I did when I still had it on the car It only took about 1.5 seconds to go from 10psi-22, still maintaining a strong "hit" it was just farther into the powerband then I would of liked. Would I be able to take a look over one of your logs? I'm sure I can't make any helpful suggestions but I am curious to look at it a little more in depth if you wouldn't mind.

Log: http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/log-2016-06-27-06-elg.305832/
 

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Last edited:
The V2 68HTA is a lag monster, there literally is no point in running that turbo when it spools the same time as a green or red...I do not see the point unless you want to keep a J Pipe cover design..
 
The V2 68HTA is a lag monster, there literally is no point in running that turbo when it spools the same time as a green or red...I do not see the point unless you want to keep a J Pipe cover design..

You'd be hard pressed to get a FP Red to spool that fast.

A FP Green is probably close. Somebody should post up their FP Green log for comparison.
 
Over the years ive had personal experience running the V1,V2 68HTAs, Red and Black... And tuned a car on a green... The v2 imo spools as late as a red (4400rpm) or later.
 
Got a log from when you ran your V2?

As I said, the V2 will spool much faster if tuned for it. I'll adjust my WG duty cycle and post another log just to show the difference. Comparing this turbo to a FP Red is inaccurate, IMO. If you're wanting to make accurate comparisons between turbos, you should post a log.
 
68hta has been shown to spool marginally faster then an FP green and much faster then a red. that's the equivalent of saying an FP green spools just as fast as a Red, maybe on a poorly tuned green posted against a well setup red. Cams will make a large difference as well. IE greens with cams posted vs a red without cams.

I apologize for my ignorance Brett, I forgot that you were running the BCS setup and you have infinitely more control over boost then I do. Also I'd imagine at your power level you'd need some level of control over the boost to make sure things don't get too hairy. Unfortunately the log file you posted wouldn't allow me to see the log, said I didn't have permission to view the site.

68hta is the largest tdo5 "j pipe" style turbo you can get (that I'm aware of) , So if being a sleeper is important to you, it's great. If not, then get a green, prices being the same obviously.
 
Good afternoon,

Here is a list of my current mods:

FP68HTA internal gate
FP manifold
950 CC FIC injectors
Rebuilt oem head
JMF O2 housing
3" intake with amsoil dry air filter
3" punishment racing downpipe
3" buschur racing high flow cat
3" Megan racing exhaust
ETS 7" street core fmic
Jay Racing Pro Series 341 fuel pump
Innovative wideband
Defi 0-30 boost gauge
& AFPR

I can tell you, first hand, that this turbo is awesome. I hit full boost between 3800-4000pm. It's currently set at 25lbs of boost. I use this car for street driving & the occasional drag passes. Granted, the powerband will start to die off when you get in the higher rpm's, but the speed limits are 45-65 here. When I punch it, I'm already over the speed limit LOL.

If you have any questions, shoot me a message!
 
Good afternoon,

Here is a list of my current mods:

FP68HTA internal gate
.......

If you have any questions, shoot me a message!

Which varitant of the 68hta are you running td05h turbine with 7cm2 housing (aka v1) or the newer NON MHI version (aka v2)
 
The v1 that sounds good for that one I was gonna grab one of the new ones later model but after talking to jusmx I've decided not to. He's got me headed into a different direction.
 
The v1 that sounds good for that one I was gonna grab one of the new ones later model but after talking to jusmx I've decided not to. He's got me headed into a different direction.

v2 on a 2.3 stroker is another option to keep the spool AND make the power..
 
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