ECMlink Lean at about 6K DSMLINK HELP!

[johnny boy 93]

So guys, I am runing link and finally got around to tuning the other day. Myself and a friend who knows way more about this then I did went out and gave er a go. I had my LTFTs set and everything but that didnt seem matter because we ended up adjusting everything for WOT. So heres the setup:

560cc Evo Injectors
19psi
16g
FMIC 255lph Fuel Pump
FPR

Now before we go any further yes my base fuel pressure was 37 psi for a 1g and the global was set to about -19 for the injectors and deadtime was 0 since they are faster then the stock ones. I will post a log when I get home here but we couldnt figure this out.

We did a 3rd gear pull all the way to about 6k and from 2 to 6 there is no knock and a/f ratio was about an 11 at WOT. But was soon as we hit 5800 to 6 k we got knock and a/f wuld be about 13. So we adjusted accordingly and after 5-6 runs we kept pulling timing and adjusting fuel delivery until finally we had pulled HUGE amounts of timing and global was at 0. After these 5-6 runs we let the car cool down and thought things through. We decided to increase the fuel pressure to see if we could richen the ratio on the top end, but the same problem occurred.

Any worldly advice from you guys running link out there? Am I maxing out my evo injectors and gotta go bigger? or is 19 psi to much for pump? All advice is appreciated.
Also should note on the way home I got a CEL light and in link it said it was a front 02 malfunction.
Thanks guys!
John

 

[snowborder714]

Have you done a boost leak test recently?

The pump is adequate for that and I'd doubt you're maxing out the injectors, but to find that out look at your IDC %'s.

It'll be much easier to provide help once you get a log posted.

 

[DJ23GSX]

I had the same issue. Couldn't tune knock out at 6-7k no matter what I did. 0 knock everywhere else. I tried just about everything. First thing I found was my fuel pressure gauge was incorrect. It was reading 8psi higher than the true fp. Once I fixed that and ran a true 38psi bfp it got better but after a week it was back to knocking like crazy again at 6-7k rpms. That was actually the 2nd bad fp gauge I had with in a year or so. I put in a fresh walbro 255 and all has been good since. Im running 22psi with 0 knock all the way to redline. The only signs of my walbro being bad I guess was that the whine was getting pretty loud and once in a while it would make a weird kinda screeching noise. My new walbro is a lot quieter than the one I replaced. I also had issues with my afpr in the past. The bolts that hold the top down on the diaphragm cam loose and was leaking under boost and not raising fp 1:1

Hope this helps
Good Luck

 

[johnny boy 93]

Hey guys,
Well the pump shouldnt be not working, it has about 1000 kilometers on it, if that, and the same with the FPR. How do I test both of these things? I mean, the fuel pump is loud, but not any louder then it was when I first installed it. I put colder spark plugs (7) in my car and gapped them to about 25 and that seemed to help a little, and even compltely eliminated the hesitation i was experiencing above 5000 rpm. I will post a log as soon as I get home tonight. The log however will be with the global at 0 and my FP actuall a couple pounds over stock. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't increasing your FP should make your injectors flow more right?

 

[snowborder714]

You can turn the fuel pump on without starting the car using DSMlink. I would do this which will test the fuel pump and then look at the gauge on your FPR and see if the fuel pressure rises to around 38 or so (might differ depending on your transmission). If that works, then I'd say they both work.

Yes, increasing your fuel pressure will make the injectors flow more.

 

[DJ23GSX]

I tested my afpr and fuel pump by running the fuel pump off the battery with the connector on the firewall. I then added pressure to the afpr vacuum port with an air compressor and it (bad pump) raised fuel pressure 1:1 all the way up to 30psi of simulated boost (via compressor). With my base fp set a 40psi i was getting 70psi of fp when I added 30psi to the afpr with the compressor. I couldn't get any more out of it than that no matter how much pressure i added to the afpr. Since I was only trying to run 18psi of boost at that time I thought that was fine. Eventually I put in the new fuel pump and did the same test and with the new pump I was able to get fuel pressure up to 84+psi by adding pressure the afpr. After seeing that it was obvious that my old pump was dying and not flowing at high pressures.

I hope this helps and didn't confuse you. Good luck. I battled my issue for almost a year I know how frustrating it can be.

 

[johnny boy 93]

Ok guys here is my DSM Link Log, now I was getting knock at 6k but with the new spark plugs that seems to have helped that and now it is around 6.5k. Things to note. I am getting a wicked backfire in 1st gear and the end of 2nd and around that 5.5k and up in 3rd it feels like the motor is hesitating like kicking in and out and then as soon as it hits 6.5 I get 2.5 counts of knock and I shut it down. I'm clueless boys. I will check my FPR and fuel pump tomorrow. Anybody else think of anything?

 

[scottsee]

I dont see your log

If your FP was failing you would notice your a/f's leaning out like a staircase around 5000rpm. I seriously doubt thats you issue, the 255 will folw alot more then what you're using it for. Though voltage does come into play, did you re-wire your pump?.

What are your IDC's and Airflowperrev telling you?

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Just throwing this out there, but what about your fuel filter? When was the last time that was replaced?

It probably isn't, since you are getting a 1:1 ratio on the gauge.

 

[johnny boy 93]

Sorry, was working on my Mac and for some reason log did not upload. Please keep in mind on this poll global was at zero and A/F was good until I hit knock. Also, whenever I let off the accelerator, there are pops and backfires almost like there is too much fuel pressure and then once the pops are gone coasts smoothly. Also, tested fuel pump through DSM link, held steady at 38 PSI for an initial fuel pump pressure and AFPR also gave me a steady 1:1 ratio when boost was added.

Don't know about IDCs and airflow per rev. Very great at tuning.

Fuel filter was replaced about 3000 kms ago.

Also, got a CEL on the ride home said that front O2 sensor was malfunctioning.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Sorry, was working on my Mac and for some reason log did not upload. Please keep in mind on this poll global was at zero and A/F was good until I hit knock. Also, whenever I let off the accelerator, there are pops and backfires almost like there is too much fuel pressure and then once the pops are gone coasts smoothly. Also, tested fuel pump through DSM link, held steady at 38 PSI for an initial fuel pump pressure and AFPR also gave me a steady 1:1 ratio when boost was added.

Why did you zero it out? For Evo injectors, it's supposed to be between 19-21. If your car wasn't running right at that setting, then you would need to look elsewhere for problems.

 

[DJ23GSX]

Like i said before my bad fuel pump was raising 1:1 up to 30psi of boost when I tested it but that was it. My new fuel pump raises 1:1 up to 40psi of boost and would probly do more if I tried. I'm thinking fuel flow is falling off in the upper rpn's not fuel pressure.


Do your knock counts change at all when you add or take fuel away? How about your a/f ratio's do they change up top when you add or take fuel away?

Do you know anyone with a good fuel pump you could try?

 

[johnny boy 93]

I put the global at zero because the injectors were apparently not geting enough fuel so by lowering the global you increase the fuel flow right? When we were tuning initially it didn't seem like the adjustment of any fuel sliders (at 19-21 global) was making any difference for knock count. With the backfires and such I am beginning to wonder if maybe it is my fuel pump... Any way to test this other then replacing it with a new pump?

 

[DJ23GSX]

If adjusting the fuel sliders didn't make a difference in knock counts then I'd have to say your having a fuel delivery problem. Bad fuel pump, clogged injectors etc. Could possibly be phantom knock as well. This sounds almost exactly like my issue though and turned out to be the fuel pump. Is your fuel pump rewired yet?

Do your a/f ratio's change at 6k when you move the fuel sliders?

 

[johnny boy 93]

Yeah, it didn't seem to matter if I changed the fuel sliders we couldn't tune out the knock. The injectors dont have that many miles on them, so I dont think it would be them, but I dont know how to check. Also yes the pump is rewired. Is there any way for me to test the fuel pump other then putting a new one in? Both the fuel pump and regulator were brand new from slowboy. Could my fuel rail be maxed out?

 

[snowborder714]

No, your rail is not maxed out.

 

[Sam@RRE]

You need to calibrate your MAF sensor. Unless your boost is actually tapering to 5psi at redline, your MAF is way off. Follow Jeff'sGST's website for intruction on how to do that. Basically your MAF is throwing out too low of a signal, your ecu is only seeing 5psi of boost and only dumping fuel for that. Start off by making sure base timing is 5*, then set global to -19% deadtimes 0. Fuel sliders should be zeroed out, and dial in a 2G timing map to start. Get a MAP sensor or if you log your wideband (doesnt look like it) I prefer the MAP sensor. Log the map sensor and and boostest, and they should follow each other almost perfectly up. Adjust Airflow sliders up or down to get boost est to match MAP values, in reference to MAFRAW.

Another tip, start your tuning at a lower boost setting, 12psi or so and get it dialed at 12 and then turn it up and do some more tweaking, unless you have really bad boost creep like in my case and 24psi was all you could run.

 

[92ts1]

You need to calibrate your MAF sensor. Unless your boost is actually tapering to 5psi at redline, your MAF is way off. Follow Jeff'sGST's website for intruction on how to do that. Basically your MAF is throwing out too low of a signal, your ecu is only seeing 5psi of boost and only dumping fuel for that. Start off by making sure base timing is 5*, then set global to -19% deadtimes 0. Fuel sliders should be zeroed out, and dial in a 2G timing map to start. Get a MAP sensor or if you log your wideband (doesnt look like it) I prefer the MAP sensor. Log the map sensor and and boostest, and they should follow each other almost perfectly up. Adjust Airflow sliders up or down to get boost est to match MAP values, in reference to MAFRAW.

Another tip, start your tuning at a lower boost setting, 12psi or so and get it dialed at 12 and then turn it up and do some more tweaking, unless you have really bad boost creep like in my case and 24psi was all you could run.

I was just about to say the MAF calibration is way off. I highly doubt that he is running that minimal amount of boost. Also from the looks of the log, your IDC peaked at 117.9% which would be completely maxing your injectors out. Now if your settings are off that will change. You need to completely zero everything out, follow JeffGST's guide for the MAF calibration, and do the 10 minute cruise 5 minute idle that ECMLink to suggests to get your IDT and Global RIGHT. Doing these things will give you the tune that your wanting.

 

[johnny boy 93]

So could this be the reason why my car is bucking at high RPMs? I think with a proper tune these injectors should not be maxed out, I will be spending some serious time tuning away tonight. So I will keep you all updated.

 

[Sam@RRE]

So could this be the reason why my car is bucking at high RPMs? I think with a proper tune these injectors should not be maxed out, I will be spending some serious time tuning away tonight. So I will keep you all updated.

The bucking could be misfire and could throw off your wideband readings. Make sure your plugs are new/clean and gapped properly.

But definitely start with MAF calibrations.