LC-1 Install Questions w/ Diagrams

[fastmitsu18]

Hi guys,

I'm trying to tackle an iddle issue, and so I would like to hook up my LC-1 innovate wideband to help log accurate a/f readings. I plan to datalog into my DSMLink. However When it's time to smog, which is what I am trying to get done ASAP, I will need to make sure the stock O2 is feeding the ECU. So when I'm logging I will feed the wideband output to the ecu and set the ecu to ignore the stock o2. WHen I need to pass smog, I will disconnect the wideband output wire, and hook up the stock O2 wire and set the ecu to check for the O2 so that I can pass the OBDII checks.

Got 2 questions.

1. The LC-1 manual, it states that on Turbo'd cars, the sensor should be mounted downstream from the turbo, but before the cat. So I plan to Mount the Wideband Sensor in the downpipe, just before the flexpipe. I made a diagram to help illustrate it. Would this be an appropriate location to get accurate readings?

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2. According to the manual - it states the following:
a. Wire the red wire to 12v switch
b. Wire System Ground and Heater Ground to same source
c. If the innovate is going to feed the ecu for datalogging, the ground should be the ECU's input signal Ground
d. The red wire (Anode) of the LED should be connected to the calibration wire, and the black wire (Kathode) to the ground wire of the Push Button Switch.
e. The Grounds to both the Kathode wire and Push Button Wire, should be connect to the Heater Ground.

So to make some sense out of this, I tried drawing it out on paper. Here is a diagram of how I have interpreted the instructions. If any of you have installed the LC-1 on your car, can you please confirm if this is the correct wiring for this setup?

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I did a search, but all it did was confuse me on how to wire the ground wires. So that is why I posted the diagram to help make sense of it.

Thanks.

David.

 

[LiquidX]

I haven't done the install yet so I won't comment on that, but your concerns about the rear o2 however can be ignored. You can turn off the rear o2 sensor and will not need that for anymore. That is just there to tell the ECU the cat is doing it's job, that's all. If it says it's not working right, it'll throw a CEL. Just pull it out and put a bung plug in.

 

[fastmitsu18]

Note, I live in CA. SO that won't work. When you tell the ecu to ignore the rear O2, it also changes the Emissions readiness monitors to incomplete. And since 3 out of the 4 monitors on a 95 ECU are based on the O2 sensors, I would automatically fail the smog.

I am aware that if you have a palm, you can set the monitors to complete. But I do have not have a palm pilot. So until I get one, this is a my alternate plan.

David.

FYI, Just checked on another forum and they stated NOT to connect the ground to Pin 92. It could fry the ECU. Instead use a chassis ground. So my question is this:

I do have a multimeter, but I have never used one before. How do I use it to check for a good ground?

FYI, I have a Etek 10709 Multimeter

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David.

 

[1twistdtalon]

I just finished my LC-1 with XD16 gauge install tonight. I Mounted my LC-1 sensor about 38 inches down the down pipe. a little after the flex. Also i used the fuse box as my switched power supply and used the same ground source for the ECU,LC-1 heater and ground, and XD16.

The gauge seems to work great and be very presise.

 

[knochgoon24]

My WBo2 sensor is just before the flex section. The idea is that if a leak would develop in the flex, it wouldn't throw off your readings. This is true. I had my flex section start to come apart and my readings stayed the same.

To test for a good ground, I check the resistance between that point and the negative post of the battery with all the ground straps connected. The less resistance the better. Set your meter to the 200ohm setting and take readings.

You'll want to connect either the brown or yellow wire up to a gauge if you have it. You'll probably need to make sure it's programmed correctly. You can compensate for voltage drop to the gauge by changing setting in the LC-1.

I wish I could help more on the wiring, but I don't remember 100%. I know I used a chassis ground instead of a pin on the ECU. I have my switched 12v coming from the cigarette lighter. I don't plug anything into it with too much draw since I have a AC/DC converter hardwired in under my passenger seat.

 

[fastmitsu18]

I currently Have my EGT, Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge (lights and sensors) being fed into pins 12 and 15 for power and ground. Would runing the WB power wire to pin 12 be to much?

I also have my indiglos hooked up to my cig lighter (the light) for power and ground.

Thanks.

David.

 

[knochgoon24]

I prefer to leave my ecu power wire untouched and pull all my power from the cigarette lighter source. It's less than a foot away. I ran a separate fused wire into a distribution strip to provide constant 12v power for anything that needed it.

 

[fastmitsu18]

So would the cigarette lighter wire be enough to power 3 gauges, 3 sensors, and my LC-1?

Thanks.

David

 

[Imback]

yes it would.

 

[LiquidX]

Just space out the splices/taps since you don't want an excessive heat build up in one location.