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Kiggly kit

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chet1185

Proven Member
317
0
Feb 15, 2014
trevorton, Pennsylvania
Just reading over some theads and im not sure if im just confused or what. I bought a 98 gst with a 6 bolt swap. Someone did a hack job trying to make it work without the kiggly kit. Well, it destroyed the pump. I just purchased and installed the kit.

Now the confusing part to me is, do i need to use the stock plate along with the plates in the kiggly kit? The instructions did not show the stock plate being installed also.
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This is our newer kit which now has 2 plates for the spacing and locates the starter without the OEM starter plate. You should not be running an OEM starter plate in this installation. The picture shown has all the right parts (save one crank bolt) necessary and is ready for the trans to be bolted up. The updated 6-bolt in a 2g kit allows more bolt head clearance and running full height bolt heads along with saving a little weight compared to the previous version.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Thank you

Just got the trans in but it doesn't seem right. The dowels in the kit are longer but the bottom of my trans is like 1/2" away on the bottom. Is that how its supposed to be? Also, the converter while seated completely in the trans, is about 1/2" away from flexplate also. Here are a few pics.
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Ok. There are supposed to be 2 bolts that go through the dowls but i seem to have misplaced them. Would they draw it in to the correct place? Anyone know the size of the bolts?
 

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That should all just slide together with no forcing it required at all. Does the converter slide freely into the pilot bushing? The whole setup should have in the range of 1/16" to 3/16" approximate converter axial play after the trans is bolted to the engine. Are the dowel holes in the trans free and clean / clear? The whole assembly should all freely just slide together.
 
Is the plate on backwards?
 
A couple things here. First, I install the converter with the trans facing up, out of the car, and make sure it is fully seated, and spins freely. Then, I scribe a mark in the inside of the bell housing so I can tell if the converter is fully seated, when I'm under the car lining everything up.

About the dowels. It's pretty rare to just slide a trans on the engine and have the block, and trans touching at all 4 bolt holes. I can't be more clear about this, MAKE SURE THE CONVERTER IS SEATED FULLY IN THE TRANS. Then run the trans to block mount bolts in. If you can't spin them in with minimal force and a stubby ratchet, something is wrong. But, tightening the trans to engine bolts will pull the trans over the dowels.

This will also pull the converter (and whole trans) closer to the flex plate. It's normal for the converter to have to pull out 1/16"-1/8" to bolt to the flex plate.
 
Plate is on correctly.

Thanks for all the great info.

Got it tightened down! 1 other issue have have now but doesnt have anything to do with the kit. I lost the tiny nut that goes on the shifter linkage on top the trans. Anyone know the size of it or know where i can buy 1 online?
 
The car is finally alive. But....... i have a grinding noise in forward gears, not reverse. Wont make a sound until i give it a little gas. I put in 6 quarts. I know it needs more. Could that be whats causing the noise? I only drove it around the block to see how it ran.
 
Yes. I know it wasnt smart. Could the linkage not being right cause this?

Ok. Fluid is full. Put front up on jack stands and gave it gas, no noise. Dropped it and drove and it made the noise. Almost sounds like maybe an axle is stripped or something but wouldnt it make noise is reverse also.

How do i make sure the linkage is right? Its a 98 gst
 
They would rub all the time i would think. Wont do it if i gradually increase throttle but if i get on it at all, it grinds. How do i make sure the linkage is set right?

I believe i found it. And its not even the trans. The motor its flexing that bad that the ac pulley is hitting
 
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