Just picked up a T3 Turbonetics 60-1 with stage 3 exhaust housing

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I just picked up a Turbonetics T3 60-1 with a stage 3 exhaust housing and was wondering what kind of power and spool I should expect out of the turbo with my mods. Yes I have a 5 bolt o2 housing for it, I'm running a T3 ramhorn manifold, and a Turbonetics Evolution 38mm wastegate.

 

[JusMX141]

"Stage 3" refers to the exhaust wheel type, not the exhaust housing. You'll need to figure out what a/r the turbine housing is- that makes a huge difference in the rpm at which the turbo reaches full boost. Compressor-wise it should be good for an additional 8lb/min or so over your 50-trim.

A word to the wise- this exact turbo didn't last 100 miles from new on Dave's car a few years ago. It literally blew on the trip from his place to mine. It was a new turbo but I bought it second-hand so there was nothing I could do about it except find a jar of Vaseline.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

"Stage 3" refers to the exhaust wheel type, not the exhaust housing. You'll need to figure out what a/r the turbine housing is- that makes a huge difference in the rpm at which the turbo reaches full boost. Compressor-wise it should be good for an additional 8lb/min or so over your 50-trim.

A word to the wise- this exact turbo didn't last 100 miles from new on Dave's car a few years ago. It literally blew on the trip from his place to mine. It was a new turbo but I bought it second-hand so there was nothing I could do about it except find a jar of Vaseline.

Ook I understand, I'll look and post it. I haven't had a problem with Turbonetics turbos at all yet plus they are only a couple hours from me and I have you or Austin to rebuild it so I'm not trippin too much.

 

[turboglenn]

I have ran a garrett 57 trim compressor with stage III turbine wheel in both the .48 and the .63 AR housings and loved it, made a best of 438HP on the turbo alone. At the same time i know some one who is running the 60-1 and although it's not a very good turbo for high pressure ratios it can support a good amount of horse power. I'm not sure whast my friends actually puts out but since it was faster than mine by a decent pull in the top of third mid-fourth gear we were guesstimating it to be right at around 500 ponies on e85

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I have ran a garrett 57 trim compressor with stage III turbine wheel in both the .48 and the .63 AR housings and loved it, made a best of 438HP on the turbo alone. At the same time i know some one who is running the 60-1 and although it's not a very good turbo for high pressure ratios it can support a good amount of horse power. I'm not sure whast my friends actually puts out but since it was faster than mine by a decent pull in the top of third mid-fourth gear we were guesstimating it to be right at around 500 ponies on e85

Wow that is impressive, yeah I'll be happy with mid 400 to low 500hp.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

What do people think of heat-wrapping the manifold, dump tube, downpipe, and getting a turbo blanket?

 

[turboglenn]

IT's a good idea and money well spent if you plan to keep the car any length of time while driving it hard. Looking back i wish i had taken a lot more precautionary steps to keep the underhood temps down.

The heat from time and miles has cooked wires, hoses, valve cover gaskets and all other rubber seals in the upper half of the engine on average need changed every 6 months or they harden and leak.. buy yhr blanket and heat wrap the manifold at the least IMO

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I can get a blanket for next to nothing from DSS, and heatwrap is cheap. Only thing is the dispute on the proper way to wrap the manifold, I heard soaking it in water and wrapping and the heat helps tighten it but I heard that causes rust and cracking when it dries it or just wrap it and be done? The reason I was asking about my downpipe is to keep my transfercase temps down etc

 

[bastarddsm]

Wrap sucks. Mine was junk and falling apart after the first drive on it. I used the DEI brand stuff.

 

[turboglenn]

the wrap breathes and the the first 15 minute cycle will cook the water out of it. Where you get cracks is from TIME and many repeated wetenings here and there, washings, etc.. water can get both in and out of the fabric just as easy. But the fact that it traps and holds water in it's self will prove to rust faster than one that is not wrapped. Perrsonally I wouldn't run any manifold that wasn't either cast steel or iron, or one that was made from stainless steel tubing.

Cast usually has no weak areas like the heat effected metal in welded mild steel pipe, and stainless just doesn't rust. And as long as the welder was good at his job and did it properly that SS headeer will be there after the car deteriorates over the next million years (i watched a thing on discovery about where our the things we own and life in general, will be in a million years..they said if the planet didn't rebuild that most everything in a neighborhood would be turned back to dirt, but if you dug you'd still find every single SS sink )

 

[ajinvista]

IT's a good idea and money well spent if you plan to keep the car any length of time while driving it hard. Looking back i wish i had taken a lot more precautionary steps to keep the underhood temps down.

The heat from time and miles has cooked wires, hoses, valve cover gaskets and all other rubber seals in the upper half of the engine on average need changed every 6 months or they harden and leak.. buy yhr blanket and heat wrap the manifold at the least IMO

I hear ya there bro. Been thinkin of wrapping everything up since I still run the stock rubber intake with the hks tube and filter, my intake temps are probably pretty warm. This town is too dusty and windy to run with no filter. Since I moved my battery I may make a tube and K&N to pull air from down low back by the fire wall, theres a huge open space.
What up G?

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I don't plan on running this manifold for long, maybe half a year if that. Just till I can get a JMF mani or something of that nature, I just want to keep my underhood temps down as much as possible because I've already had a problem with wires melting etc from running my Evo III manifold with no heatshield.

I also heard giving the manifold a coat or two of the high temp coating before you wrap also helps with rust