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Junk Electric Supercharger or Turbo [Merged 1-7] intake fan gimmick

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Wow. Even after all the hundreds of threads on dozens of message boards discussing how those things were a complete waste of time and energy, somebody actually bought one. Damn. Tough luck man. :|
 
WOW. Now this is a classic thread.


"all it does it pushes more air into your Throttle Body thru the intake."


Yeah, what a waste, who needs more air into the throttle body by the intake. :p
 
Ive seen on many posts here thay people are interested in those eslectric upserchargers for a cheap addition of H.P.

Some members say they are good where others say they are total crap. I would like to agree with the total crap guys. :barf:

Over on the 2g stratus baords one of their wisemen did a dyno of this "device". :thumbdown

I know it isnt a dsm but please dont flame me. i'm just making a point that electricsupercharges are about as worthless as enron stock. :barf: :cry:

I'm not out to say all electric SC are total crap but I just want people to be careful before getting snakeoil

The eRam is advertised to give up to 1 psig of boost. For that boost figure, I would expect a gain of around 12 HP and 11 ft-lbf of torque. The eRam is also supposed to consume 40 amps at 14 VDC. This is about 560 watts, or about 0.75 HP drag that the alternator would place on the engine to power the eRam. The real-world results are pitifully smaller than the estimated gains. The minimal gains shown by the eRam do not warrant the $300 that it costs.

Thomoas vago's Eram dynos
 
THis isnt mine but i thought it would be helpful

While the ads touting this product make a very seductive argument for buying and installing this item, the actual performance gain is so small as to be unnoticed. The E-Ram only powers up at WOT (which is when you'd want it to power up). It is supposed to give up to 1 PSIG of boost; unfortunately, it does not deliver.

Before I can rip apart the ridiculous claims made by this product's vendor, I have to explain what is supposed to happen. Consider a 2.5L V-6 with a volumetric efficiency of 82%, and with peak HP at 5850 RPM. We need to find the amount of air, in cubic feet per minute (cfm), that this engine is able to pass at peak HP. Now, the displacement of the 2.5L engine (is 2.5L, but we're going to work with cfm) is 152.4 cubic inches. Using the above mentioned facts, we can figure out how much air the engine is capable of passing.

vfr = (rpm * 0.5 * cid * ve) / 1728
Where:
vfr is the volumetric flow rate of the engine
rpm is the engine RPM where expected maximum power is developed
cid is the cubic inch displacement of the engine
0.5 is a factor that takes into account that an gasoline engine only moves air for two of its four cycles
1728 is the conversion factor from cubic inches to cubic feet

Now, we plug in numbers.

vfr = (5850 * 0.5 * 152.4 * 0.82) / 1728
= 211.5 cfm

From the above formula, we find that the 2.5L V-6 is able to pass a maximum of 212 cfm at WOT. Now, the E-Ram is supposed to provide a 1 psid boost at WOT, which would be 212 cfm for the V-6. To provide this much boost for this flow rate of air, one must expend about 1 HP, or about 746 watts (W). Taking this into consideration, and assuming for the moment that the E-Ram is able to provide this boost without any mechanical or electrical losses whatsoever, the E-Ram should draw (746 W)/(13 V) = 57.4 A (amps) when it is running. However, under test, this item only draws 15.3 A, for a power draw of 199 W (0.27 HP). So, at most, the E-Ram can provide about 1/4 psig of boost, which is hardly enough to offset the HP loss just by running this thing.

To compound the situation, the E-Ram actually provides a intake restriction when it's turned off (during any part-throttle response). This, in turn, requires the engine to work harder just to draw air in, which is power that could have been used instead to propel the car forward.

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A $300 Paperweight
 
blcknspo0ln said:
3s forums, corvette forums, dsm forums, EVERY forum has said they suck. short and simple as stated above.. it's a 300 dollar paper weight :rolleyes:

HAHA,,, not all of us...,, read this thread and look at all the people guaranteing it makes horsepower and not to knock it because its "new".
Its nice somebody ACTUALLY came up w/ numbers and not just speculation. Though anyone w/ some common sense should of seen it coming. Nice info :thumb:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126979

-
 
thanks, but like i said its not mine. A guy name thomas vago did all the math.
I just want to save the kids out there from wasting their money :thumbdown
 
Well Bro whatever you did during the installation is what has caused your problem. In order to get rid of the issue you have to put EVERYTHING back to the way it was before installation. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD ASK SOMEONE NEXT TIME BEFORE YOU ORDER SOME STUPID STUFF LIKE THIS. I am going to start selling high performance blinker fluid on e-bay for $100 a bottle. Then I'm going to piss in a bunch of bottles and see if I can get rich.....
 
I bet he got one of those e-ram's because they are more expensive than the bilge pumps. But still....damn dude. I've seen 1.5 million threads about how crappy those are. Uhm.......i can't believe you bought one :thumbdown
 
Kirby said:
Well Bro whatever you did during the installation is what has caused your problem. In order to get rid of the issue you have to put EVERYTHING back to the way it was before installation. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD ASK SOMEONE NEXT TIME BEFORE YOU ORDER SOME STUPID STUFF LIKE THIS. I am going to start selling high performance blinker fluid on e-bay for $100 a bottle. Then I'm going to piss in a bunch of bottles and see if I can get rich.....
Hey I'll go in buisness with ya, I got 100's of feet of flight line(AF guys know waht I'm talking about :shhh: )
 
you guys really shouldnt rip on him tho. in the other thread, we were telling someone to buy it and try it out and see if it works... well at least he gave it a try
 
no no, its common knowledge not to buy this hunk o junk. even at 300 dollars how do you think it could posiibly compare to a 3000 dollar turbo kit? the fact there is no BOV is a good indicator that its not pushing any real cfms

Anyone who encouraged the purchase should give him some money as sort of an appology.

original poster, you might wanna try www.2gnt.com for all your second gen non turbo questions.
 
GSGoinFast said:
in the other thread, we were telling someone to buy it and try it out and see if it works

And then we wonder why the factory turbo guys give us so much shit.l :rolleyes: Ye gads! I bet the only reason this thread isn't ripe with 4g63 luv already is they have all fallen out of their chairs laughing at us again. Damn fellas. Damn.
 
Royalty said:
To compound the situation, the E-Ram actually provides a intake restriction when it's turned off (during any part-throttle response). This, in turn, requires the engine to work harder just to draw air in, which is power that could have been used instead to propel the car forward.
But waitaminute... if it's an intake restriction, and it only comes on at FWO, then the restriction would disappear and you'd get more power!

or.... not.

I tolja they're horseshit. I just don't do that math stuff.
 
YOU ARE ALL WRONG! i had oine on my 93 prelude VTEC, and it make a BIG ####in difference. mine was the real E-RAM. me racing my buddies JRSC civic si, and me with i/h/e and the eram was a good race, he ended up pulling me about a car length..me without the e-ram made him pull about 3 cars. it made a noticable difference that i could feel. now if u go puttin it on a turbocharged car, it would just be a restriction..a HUGE restriction and would be the dumbest thing you could ever do. but on an NA motor, it works, believe me. i also had it on my 4th gen accord. made a big difference on both.
 
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