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johnny racecar's fmic, who has one?

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I've read all 33 pages so far, have my jrc core and short route pipes... but I'm stuck on one design aspect: how to get my driver side piping to the t28 compressor outlet elbow. I saw the one picture post of it going under the engine mount bracket, but my car is lowered WAYYY too much to go under there safely. Any suggestions without spending another $75 on a C pipe from dejon/ttr or cutting and welding?
 
If you aren't averse to cutting the tow hook, here you go. The pipe sits on top of the crossmember. Still need an angled section for that area though where it passes through. This is on a 1g, but you get the idea. If you have room to go over the top of the ic and come through the passenger side, I'd do that instead. This one had to be done this way to not lose the bumper support entirely and because the ic is 12" high.

edit: Just re-read that you said short-route pipes. Should be able to go through near the radiator and power steering lines and go straight left, can't you?
 

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iboostdoyou said:
I've read all 33 pages so far, have my jrc core and short route pipes... but I'm stuck on one design aspect: how to get my driver side piping to the t28 compressor outlet elbow. I saw the one picture post of it going under the engine mount bracket, but my car is lowered WAYYY too much to go under there safely. Any suggestions without spending another $75 on a C pipe from dejon/ttr or cutting and welding?

If you read all 33 pages then you'd have read that we used a spal fan to make clearance for the pipes on the driver side so that they would be above the cross member instead of under. ;) good luck.
 
hakcenter said:
As promised, here is pics of my JRC backdoor 2.5" installed with straightlinespecialties.com pipes.

Awaiting arrival of my Dejon Jpipe to complete it.

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I run a custom MAP setup, no MAF at all. And for those considering the straightline pipes.. remember that there is absolutely no room for the battery. You could try to move the battery down a couple of inches, but I'm moving mine to the back.
Looks really good, did you use a johnnyracecar core and move the inlet/outlet?
 
hakcenter, did he charge you extra for it? How well did the outlets line up with the rad support holes? That is freekin sweet, I didn't know he would do that!
 
hakcenter said:
As promised, here is pics of my JRC backdoor 2.5" installed with straightlinespecialties.com pipes.

Awaiting arrival of my Dejon Jpipe to complete it.

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I run a custom MAP setup, no MAF at all. And for those considering the straightline pipes.. remember that there is absolutely no room for the battery. You could try to move the battery down a couple of inches, but I'm moving mine to the back.
what intake do you use? Looks like my 90-93 accord intake i ordered today for my setup
 
hakcenter said:
As promised, here is pics of my JRC backdoor 2.5" installed with straightlinespecialties.com pipes.


I run a custom MAP setup, no MAF at all. And for those considering the straightline pipes.. remember that there is absolutely no room for the battery. You could try to move the battery down a couple of inches, but I'm moving mine to the back.

Nice air intake. I did the same w/ some Lowes Hardware piping ;) 3" all the way until right at the turbo, faces exactly like yours. :) I noticed a avg of 20deg drop with dsmlink logs too. Works great! :) Can't wait to get the rest of my goodies in along with a oil cooler setup.

I'm still trying to figure out whats up w/ your radiator piping. Why is it all twisted looking?
 
hakcenter said:
Okay okay, LOL.

I used 93 Honda Accord Intake, just like here in the forums.. I had a left over elbow to make it bend into the bumper (which i might add is freakiing sweet)
i knew it! awesome, thanks! :thumb:
 
i just got mine mounted and piped tonight! :thumb: but ive got some nasty boost leaks, im still kinda learing so here is my situation, when ever i start to hit boost it doesnt build and only bout 5 and it then just kinda flutters every where, 2 times my pipe connecting to the end tank on the drivers side has blown off, would this be where my boost leak is or is that where its blowing off cause of the boost leak? ive got a Dejon Tool J pipe to a 90 degree bend-straight pipe-(Slight U bend-end tank)(this is the one falling off),im going to build a leak down tester tmrw, but i just figured id ask if the one going to the end tank is my prob, if so ill prolly go have it beaded

thanx alex

btw i heart this intercooler looks real nice in the front end
 
gstspyda97 said:
i just got mine mounted and piped tonight! :thumb: but ive got some nasty boost leaks, im still kinda learing so here is my situation, when ever i start to hit boost it doesnt build and only bout 5 and it then just kinda flutters every where, 2 times my pipe connecting to the end tank on the drivers side has blown off, would this be where my boost leak is or is that where its blowing off cause of the boost leak? ive got a Dejon Tool J pipe to a 90 degree bend-straight pipe-(Slight U bend-end tank)(this is the one falling off),im going to build a leak down tester tmrw, but i just figured id ask if the one going to the end tank is my prob, if so ill prolly go have it beaded

thanx alex

btw i heart this intercooler looks real nice in the front end

Make your bends right and u can hold them on with normal worm clamps like mine and still be able to hold 25psi :D
 
so if the bend is weird, would this interfere with it holding to the coupling!? i can go snap a pic real quick
 
gstspyda97 said:
so if the bend is weird, would this interfere with it holding to the coupling!? i can go snap a pic real quick

here's an alternative:

If you cant get your pipes beaded, you could take them to a local shop and have them weld a few stubs at the end of your pipes, its the same as getting it beaded. Also, silicone couplers are easier to handle with worm clamps. Those rubber ones that are like OE are so think and unflexible that it gives a worm clamp a hard time. I have silcone couplers with t-bolt clamps everywhere....EVERYWHERE. Its worth the investment.
 
UPGRADED2G said:
here's an alternative:

If you cant get your pipes beaded, you could take them to a local shop and have them weld a few stubs at the end of your pipes, its the same as getting it beaded. Also, silicone couplers are easier to handle with worm clamps. Those rubber ones that are like OE are so think and unflexible that it gives a worm clamp a hard time. I have silcone couplers with t-bolt clamps everywhere....EVERYWHERE. Its worth the investment.


yeaaaaaa your right, BUT for us ghetto people who cant afford expensive silicone or t-bolt clamps that works. Or just take a hand held beader, or use a pipe expander, or just use a arc or mig/tig welder and weld on some bumps. My front bumper holds my pipes to my fmic tho, and I have 1 pipe with arc welded bumps on the end and it holds just find.

The only part I had problems with was the driver side U bend cause of the way I didnt weld the pipes togeather, I just have radiator coupler holding it on with a straight metal pipe inside the coupler to keep it from bending the wrong ways.
 
which piping is better for a evo 16g. 2.25 or 2.5 would a 2.5 give a lot of lag? and how do you rottate the compressor?

thx
 
2.5 is better..
You can make a j pipe, buy one, or clock the housing downwards
 
Rotating the compressor cover is pretty easy. Once you get the turbo apart you will have cut/grind away the little dowell pin that holds in the normal position. And then rotate it to where you want. You will have to fabricate something to mount the wg actuator to and that is a little more complicated. Check my gallery where I have a few pics of my evob16g rotated 180*. You will need a very strong pair of snapring plyers to remove the compressor cover.

Good luck
 
for the sake of not lokoking over 30 pages, are these johnyyr acars intercoolers tube and fin or bar and pllate?
 
does he make the intercoolers with the ends facing toward the engine?
if so did anyone got one like that. was it hard to put it.. was there a lot of cutting involved?
pictured would be nice... it's for a 1g...


thx
andrzej
 
I personally have not used one yet, but plan to buy one soon. I believe hakcenter has this on his 1g.
 
polishshark said:
which piping is better for a evo 16g. 2.25 or 2.5 would a 2.5 give a lot of lag?

Unless you're running 10's, I'd say it doesn't matter. 2.25" argues for better spool-up, 2.5" argues for more flow, but unless you have a race car, it's a toss-up and I have yet to see anyone show noticeable differences either way. For a 16g, 2.25" is easily plenty.
 
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