johnny racecar's fmic, who has one?

[FWD98GST]

In reply, I mounted the core low enough so that 2.5" of piping can fit underneath the fog-lights. I am very happy that I am able to retain the foglights and you shouldn't have any problems if you mount it they way I did...

Hope that helps.. Good luck!!

 

[Agent11br]

I just had a few questions...

FWD98GST: I was just curious...I was looking at your mods and noticed you weren't running any injectors, just the 190 and safc. What are you running Psi wise? and what have you noticed in terms of: spoolup (even with your t28), pressure drop, and knock with the new fmic?

98spydert: When you installed the fmic did spoolup that you gained from the maft setup get negated or was it still present? What are you running Psi wise? and what have you noticed in terms pressure drop and knock with the new fmic?

Stoner, thanks for the numbers, with some more tuning you'll be scoot'n pretty quick.

TIA for any answers/info

 

[98spydert]

In reply, I mounted the core low enough so that 2.5" of piping can fit underneath the fog-lights. I am very happy that I am able to retain the foglights and you shouldn't have any problems if you mount it they way I did...

Hope that helps.. Good luck!!

I was also able to mount the core low enough to retain the factory fogs. I think there's a picture of the inlet and pipe running under the light back in the pictures I posted after my initial install.

 

[98spydert]

98spydert: When you installed the fmic did spoolup that you gained from the maft setup get negated or was it still present? What are you running Psi wise? and what have you noticed in terms pressure drop and knock with the new fmic?


TIA for any answers/info

Spool up is still very good, didn't notice a negative difference compaired the side mount. I've been fixing boost leaks ALL WEEK and I should be able to give you a good idea of when I reach full boost(without all of the boost leaks) sometime this week. All of the knock I had on the side mount at 15psi was gone with the FMIC and I was able to raise to 20psi and remove about 12% fuel.

I've been running 20psi on pump since then but two weeks ago it started knocking (5-10 counts from 4K-redline) and I got a new compressor for x-mas so I started checking for boost leaks. Two couplers were leaking BAD, my throttle body had a leak, and my type S had leaks at the gasket, dump tube, and vac hose from the manifold. All of those are fixed and the RTV is drying on the gasket tonight so I'll play with it this week, get some new logs and post my spool up RPM. I left the car in the garage for a whole week after I started getting knock counts so I'm excited to get out there and play with it some more

 

[Agent11br]

THANKS A TON 98spydert!!! Thats exactly what I was looking for!!

Looking forward to the spool up rpm value!

Boost leaks are such a BIA sometimes...

 

[elementalwindx]

Ok,

I have the JRC core and my mods are in my profile if you need to see them. I have dsmlink and I did a 3rd gear pull tonight and here are some of my numbers. I am not sure what you guys are wanting to see so if you want to know something I didnt list just ask.

Unfortunately I cant post the actual log right now so these were my peak numbers.

Boost was set at 20psi
All fuel and timing was set at zero, so basically this is untuned;

Peak est. HP 272 at the wheels
Peak airflow 32.5 lb/min
Knock peaked at a whoping 0.7 for a very short time
Timing peaked at 16*
A/F ratio around 11:1


I hope this helps oh and I reached full boost in 5th gear around 3000 rpm's

with 16deg of timing at WOT for you, does that mean that 30deg of timing at WOT for me is bad? *sigh* heh I'm knocking more now than before I did my b/s elim and timing belt change.

 

[Stoner]

with 16deg of timing at WOT for you, does that mean that 30deg of timing at WOT for me is bad? *sigh* heh I'm knocking more now than before I did my b/s elim and timing belt change.

Yes 30* of timing is way to high. Most 2g's are doing really good with around 20* by the top of 3rd. You need to pull some timing out if you have a dsmlink. If not what are you using for fuel tuning.

I would suggest staying out of the gas until you fix the problem

 

[elementalwindx]

Yes 30* of timing is way to high. Most 2g's are doing really good with around 20* by the top of 3rd. You need to pull some timing out if you have a dsmlink. If not what are you using for fuel tuning.

I would suggest staying out of the gas until you fix the problem

Weird, I wonder why just changing my timing belt would do that. My timing is right on the mark. I wish I had some of my old logs to see if there ever was a difference in timing.

 

[DSMnewbi]

If he was knocking wouldnt his ecu PULL timing not give it more???

 

[elementalwindx]

If he was knocking wouldnt his ecu PULL timing not give it more???

ehh? yea. but who said anything about giving timing when knocking?

 

[Stoner]

Weird, I wonder why just changing my timing belt would do that. My timing is right on the mark. I wish I had some of my old logs to see if there ever was a difference in timing.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that you need to check all pulleys to make sure they are on the marks not just the ones for the cams. It will take 6 revolutions to get them all to line up. But if one of them is off I think that could mess your timing up. Other than that it may not be due to the timing belt at all.

 

[elementalwindx]

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that you need to check all pulleys to make sure they are on the marks not just the ones for the cams. It will take 6 revolutions to get them all to line up. But if one of them is off I think that could mess your timing up. Other than that it may not be due to the timing belt at all.

Well LeeGSX put the timing belt on for me, we got all the marks lined up, rotated it a couple times and it kept showin up on the marks (not just the cams) and THEN we put in a new timing belt tensioner, I didnt check it after that though. Before the car is turned on its at 5deg of timing, while idling its at 8-11deg.

 

[Stoner]

Well LeeGSX put the timing belt on for me, we got all the marks lined up, rotated it a couple times and it kept showin up on the marks (not just the cams) and THEN we put in a new timing belt tensioner, I didnt check it after that though. Before the car is turned on its at 5deg of timing, while idling its at 8-11deg.

Hmmmmm

Better start a new thread for this one

 

[Poloturbo]

I have a Evo IV FMIC on my car. The core is 19"X10"X2.75. No knock with the big16g for 2 years.
Install a BR20G, running 18 and over, A LOT OF KNOCK. The core from JR seems OK for 16g and smaller turbo but is not the same as a 3.5" thick item from other.

 

[Stoner]

Looks like a pretty good setup. 32.5 lb/min is pretty good at 16* timing and 20 psi. If you can get up around 18* you should pick up another 10 h.p. Cams are what I'd get next, they were worth 25 h.p. or 2.5 lb/min on my setup. A MAFT or VPC and removing the MAF was worth around 15-20 h.p on my car. I think if you ran your turbo around 24 psi you could get close to 40 lb/min. Every little thing adds up. Post your datalog, I'd like to take a look at it if you don't mind. Cheers.

Ok I got the laptop working but this site wont let me upload the file. Its too big to copy and paste. I could email it to you if you give me your address.

Later,
Ben

 

[1badtsi]

use www.njsr.org for hosting pics

 

[coltboostin]

I have a Evo IV FMIC on my car. The core is 19"X10"X2.75. No knock with the big16g for 2 years.
Install a BR20G, running 18 and over, A LOT OF KNOCK. The core from JR seems OK for 16g and smaller turbo but is not the same as a 3.5" thick item from other.

Don’t tell them this. They will call you a blast femur devil worshiper! I already tried to show them the light, and they did not want to look.

 

[Stoner]

Don’t tell them this. They will call you a blast femur devil worshiper! I already tried to show them the light, and they did not want to look.

I dont think (atleast I hope) that no one is expecting to be able to run any turbo bigger than a Big 16g with this. But some of the big name large fmic are overkill for us 16g guys so its a good suit.

 

[sweet97]

Colt: Blasphemer. I passed on the eBay FMIC becuase I run a 50 trim and I am always leary of eBay items and the ridiculously priced FMIC's just can't be as efficient as a good brand name IC. Like the man saidfine for a 16G. Let the 50 trim owners flame! Mark

 

[coltboostin]

I dont think (atleast I hope) that no one is expecting to be able to run any turbo bigger than a Big 16g with this. But some of the big name large fmic are overkill for us 16g guys so its a good suit.

I am sure they have been thinking away.

 

[pboglio]

Ok I got the laptop working but this site wont let me upload the file. Its too big to copy and paste. I could email it to you if you give me your address.

Later,
Ben

Reviewed your datalog. Your timing curve is dead on perfect for a 2G street car. Your hitting 18.1* timing in the 6000 rpm range, thats about right. Your 02s look nice and safe at .92 volts, just the same as what I'd run. You have almost no knock to speak of. Let me ask you a question, are those horsepower values at the wheels or with the 15% added in already? I like how the horsepower holds flat till 6600-6700 rpm. Spool up looks outstanding too, about 150 rpm slower than my small T28. By the way, your airflow values look good too at 33 lb/min on 20psi. I can't see a thing wrong with the tuning for pump gas.

Only thing I can add is to buy cams and ditch the MAF and crank it to 24 psi on race fuel. I think you could get real close to 40 lb/min on a cold day. Good job.

 

[Stoner]

Reviewed your datalog. Your timing curve is dead on perfect for a 2G street car. Your hitting 18.1* timing in the 6000 rpm range, thats about right. Your 02s look nice and safe at .92 volts, just the same as what I'd run. You have almost no knock to speak of. Let me ask you a question, are those horsepower values at the wheels or with the 15% added in already? I like how the horsepower holds flat till 6600-6700 rpm. Spool up looks outstanding too, about 150 rpm slower than my small T28. By the way, your airflow values look good too at 33 lb/min on 20psi. I can't see a thing wrong with the tuning for pump gas.

Only thing I can add is to buy cams and ditch the MAF and crank it to 24 psi on race fuel. I think you could get real close to 40 lb/min on a cold day. Good job.

Thanks,

HP is calculated to the wheels, and I think it assumes a 20% drivetrain loss not 15% but I may be wrong on that one. I still have some boost leaks to fix and I may try and squeeze 1 or 2 more psi on pump since I have virtually no knock yet. I tried to advance the timing a little and lost power (still no knock) so I pulled it back out.

 

[2Quick4You]

so im in the middle of this install but im not shure what i should do with the oil line in front of the radiator ...can i leave it there and install the cooler in front or should i tuck it behind the brace ??

 

[Stoner]

so im in the middle of this install but im not shure what i should do with the oil line in front of the radiator ...can i leave it there and install the cooler in front or should i tuck it behind the brace ??

I believe that you are talking about the power steering cooler line. I used and aftermarket smaller one, but you could bolt it on the backside of the brace.

Aftermarket PS Cooler

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138489

 

[4sfead]

so im in the middle of this install but im not shure what i should do with the oil line in front of the radiator ...can i leave it there and install the cooler in front or should i tuck it behind the brace ??

Its up to you. I left mine where it was and I was able to install the IC no problem. If you dont have a problem putting it behind the bracket do that, it would probably be better.