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JDM 4g63t SWAP

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XevileagleX

Probationary Member
10
0
Feb 11, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
I put in a jdm motor, the turbo and intake manifolds are different, how do i find out what the jdm motor was in? Also the turbo says tdo4hl, its tiny, i used as much from the jdm motor as possible, but where i couldnt i swapped to the orignal part. I want to know is the stock turbo better or should i use the jdm turbo. it will require buying a j pipe, which is no problem. Here is a list of parts I plan on buying, MAP sensor(old one is broke), MAF sensor(broke), Coolant temp sensor(broke), Racing turbo manifold w j pipe, boost controller, blow off valve, front intercooler, 1.5 in. drop srpings, 17 in wheels and tires, and eliminate the A/C. Also it runs super rich, the intake has a screw for air to fuel, screw direction is which( up is what, down is what), also having the MAP sensor out, would that cause the blow off valve to stay open due to not reading the pressure? My codes read p0100,p0105,p0110,p0115 which all realate to the sensors above which are being replaced. I am in college for automotive degrees, so I have most tools readily available. I won the haynes manual and am doing most tests right now to get to run at its peak, When done I want about 700awhp. Also it is a 1995 Talon TSi AWD, dubbed Frankenstein due to the green. Any and all advise it appreciated!!!!!!!!:idontknow: :talon:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
With the running rich problem, I would suggest replacing the needed sensors first then report back.
 
Not sure if serious or...

For starters, the screw on your throttle body has nothing to do with A/F ratio, it adjusts the base idle speed. The A/F ratio is controlled by the ECU using the MAF and O2 sensors. The ECU coolant temp sensor (not the gauge sensor) can cause the ECU to dump fuel like crazy. But apart from sensors, running rich is usually due to intake or exhaust leaks. Replace the broken sensors and then check for leaks.

The MDP sensor has nothing to do with the BOV, it's purely an emissions related sensor. The BOV is operated by pressure/vacuum from a hose connected to the intake manifold. Make sure it's completely attached and free of leaks. If it still sits open or blows open under boost, you should probably just replace it, preferably with something that's not Chinese and designed to just make noise.

I'd highly suggest skipping the mods for now and focus on getting the car running good in stock form. You have a LOT to learn before you make anything above stock horsepower. Just start researching and pay close attention in school.
 
No I got the car because the guy who had it didnt want to change the motor, i dont know where he even got the motor, the sensors read as malfunction, replaced all sensors, and then the head gasket went out, the water pump went out, then the oil pump went out. I am not use to working on the 4g63, I had the ESI with the 420a which was a lot easier. So now I am pulling the motor and taking the two motors apart and rebuilding one using parts from both and new parts using Nippon Racing Mitsubishi DSM 2G High Performance Engine Racing Kit, from ebay. So I have to start all over, but this time everything will be new, not a japan import motor. I will have the correct parts. The motor that was orginally in it, I was told had crank walk, if so how is that fixed so I can use that crankshaft? What is crank walk? Also I heard about having a balancer removed? What is that and how can I do it since I am tearing the motor down? Also would and underdrive pulley be good? I apologize about the misinformation. I am seriously trying to learn, and the first year of college is auto body repair second year is auto tech. I am in my first year. So any advise on this is appreciated and not meant to be imposing towards anyone. I live in hicktown usa and dont have any real help on DSMs.
 
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