4g63t 2g JDM

[LiquidX]

Alright, as the title states I'm dealing with a 2g JDM engine. It just got in at the shop where my car is at and the mechanic said he hasn't seen one before and was curious about this engine. He has only dealt with the 6 bolt engines. He said he ordered a 2g cyclone engine, well that's what his supplier said. Anyway, here is a link of exactly what the engine I got looks like (this is taken off a website) Mitsubishi RVR - engine bay on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Besides the obvious hose routing, are there any other signifigant changes? I'm curious to know if the cyclone was ONLY on the 6 bolts and is strictly a 2 piece IM. The IM does look different than the US model but it's not in 2 sections nor does it have butterfly valves.

If it's just a regular ole cast IM I'll be happy knowing that I'll get another discount on the engine for it not being a "cyclone" engine.

It'll be coming off regardless to put on a heat barrier gasket, 4-ply head gasket, ARP head studs, BS elimination, new timing parts and revised lifters.

Ohhh! With exhaust manifold, would the "RVR" edition be the same size as the 2g manifold? Mine has a few hairline cracks and is ported but if the new manifold is much smaller I'll just stick with my current then.

Let me know what ever you guys know on this info.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[the_mork]

It is not a cyclone engine, the IM is different than the 2g IM and is an upgrade. It has a 52mm throttle body bore which is the only thing that separates the manifold from an evo3 IM. The tb on your engine cannot be used on your car because it actuates the wrong way. The engine itself is nearly identical to a 2g engine but I'm not 100% sure about the exhaust manifold, the only difference would be in the collector which can be ported because some RVRs came with a smaller turbo while some came with 16g turbos.

 

[LiquidX]

Well that's good to know about the cyclone, that'll reduce costs then . I need to keep emisions so I'll be keeping my stock IM. I'll prob. just go and port out the rvr exhaust manifold and keep stocker on until then. I know it's not the 16g as that's what I already have. Minus fuel and air, is there anything else that's different in the japspec?

I want to put in the revised lifters from my old engine but it ate a bearing or two and don't know if it would be "safe" to put them in the new head. Any thoughts on either/or?

Thanks

Scott,

::Edit::

What difference is with the IM and my stocker. I may just have the shop fab it up to accept my TB and the emisions.

 

[the_mork]

It will accept your TB just fine unless you have a 1g TB then you only need to port the inlet to 60mm. Emissions are easy to deal with, just get a blockoff plate for the EGR and mount it somewhere that it looks like it still exists, the MDP sensor is useless anyway so just take it off. That is it for emissions changes. If you still want to keep your MDP sensor then there is a company that makes an adapter so that you can just hook it into a vacuum line.

I wouldn't think that it would be likely for your lifters to have become significantly contaminated but you may want to check and see if the new motor already has revised lifters.

Check out this thread for more information about your IM. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/245603-lancer-evolution-iii-intake-manifold.html

 

[LiquidX]

Thanks for the reply and info. I only have a couple options with the emissions: A. remove everything and have a CEL AND find a place to pass my emission less car. B. Install emissions onto new IM. C. Faux install emissions and have a CEL.

I ended up finding that site after I posted my edit

So over all, what I'm reading is I should use the new IM and keep my 2g throttle body since I don't want to go and buy a "new" 1g TB to have it ported to 60mm to be at "evo" spec.

 

[the_mork]

Moving to a 1g TB is a big upgrade for any 2g. It is an even bigger upgrade (IMO) with this manifold which has a higher airflow choke point (making the tb the bigger restriction as we close in on redline). The swap to a 1g tb is cheap and easy. I picked one up for $30 and new tb shaft seals for $10. An hours worth of work and the TB was fully taken apart, cleaned, and back together. Putting it on the car is no more work than putting a 2g tb on the car. Porting can be done in less than an hour by you with $25 in tools and then you'll have the tools to port whatever you like.

 

[LiquidX]

Thanks Mork, I've already begun searching for a 1g TB. I'll just have to get a new metal gasket for both ends along with I assume a double fluted Al bit correct?

Found out that I need to have emissions on my car for the visual inspection, but it doesn't have to work. No vacuum lines missing though. So I'd have to leave the canister in as that is a major hassle to get to. Is there a way to have the parts not work while still keeping it look like it's hooked up or would I just be better off getting it to work properly?

Thanks

Scott

 

[the_mork]

The gaskets generally aren't metal. I went to harbor freight and bought an air powered die grinder with a set of double cutter carbide bits. I went through two of the tree in the package. Total cost for the tools was <$30. The only pieces of emissions equipment that get moved or changed are the EGR valve and the MDP sensor. The EGR is easy to block off and then just use something to wire it up on the manifold. The MDP sensor you can get an adapter for or just leave it plugged in somewhere when you go for emissions (but remove it the rest of the time).

 

[LiquidX]

Thanks, I do need to get a couple new bit anyway. That's where I got my die grinder from. Maybe I just have an odd IM, but my stocker had black metal gaskets for the TB. Would they be the same size or smaller than the 1g TB. Trying to save money where I can.

Thanks

Scott

 

[the_mork]

They'll be 52mm and a 1g tb is 60mm. I would just get new gaskets they are about $2 each and you can get two "throttle body base gaskets" if the store doesn't have a tb > elbow gasket. There is also a vendor in the vendor section selling heat barrier tb gaskets that you might consider IIRC they are $30 for a pair.

It is possible that they are metal but it is more likely that they were sprayed with some sort of metal spray or they just appear metal because of long term compression. Permatex makes a copper spray that I suggest everyone use on just about every gasket that they install.

 

[LiquidX]

I ordered a new TB to IM gasket. Talked to ExtremePSI and they said that was the only gasket that would be of different size between years. I am positive that at least my elbow gasket and pretty sure my IM gasket are both metal. They are consistant color and thicknes. I've reused a few times and use copper spray on them. To be honest they also flex like metal gaskets do too.

Thanks

Scott

 

[the_mork]

Whoever you talked to at extreme either didn't know what they were talking about or didn't understand what you were asking, go cancel your order or see if you can get another gasket added to your order. You'll want to port your throttle body elbow to match the 1g gasket, I can assure you that I took a lot of material out of my elbow to make it match my tb and gasket, there is also a sharp bend on the inside that you should smooth out. The metal is much thicker at the bend but none of the elbow is terribly thick so don't get greedy all you want to do is smooth the path for the airflow and make the area after the bend slowly expand to meet a diameter of 60mm which can be easily found by tracing the interior of your new gasket with a scratch awl.

 

[LiquidX]

My order was shipped shortly after I placed it and will recieve it tomorrow. I'll trim my elbow gasket if I need to, but off had I'm not sure if I have the turbo or n/t TB. I'll look again tomorrow to see if it has the longer pipe on it. If it does, then I just need a coupler to hook up to my piping. Have new seals and FIAV gasket coming with it. I know that I can use o rings and that's what I did on my other one, but I just want to make sure this will hold up and not worry about re using pieces for it to work right.

Getting both IM and exhaust mani to port out tomorrow.

Thanks

Scott

Correction, my TB gaskests that were on the car were actually a plastic. Too bad it wasn't a 1g TB size. Anyway, I did end up with the NT 1g TB. Rebuilt it today and found out that turbo seals are just a hair too wide, not big in height as the other post say. Doubled up on #7 o-rings on both ends to ensure a solid seal. Plate doesn't bind up and moves fluidly. Ported out RVR manifold to 60mm so it's basically the Evo 3 mani now.

I was suprised at how much oil and carbon was in the manifold seeing as there aren't emissions on that (IM). Cleaned it all out and it's looking nice now. Took a while to port though using the Craftsman high speed cutting bit using a dremel.

I'm ready to get that engine in my car and see how it goes. Just a few more things to change out.