Issues Idleing/Starting

[Ambitions]

alright so my car has been having issues with idleing and wanting to die.. I've been trying to figure this out and after tonight I'm completely lost..

Currently I have the following Issues:

1. When car is idleing, it randomly goes down to around 500 rpms and then it just dies
2. When you hit 4800 rpms the boost gauge is at around 9 lbs and the needle starts going crazy
3. tonight I was backing it up and when I was backing it up I pushed the clutch in and it died, i tried to start it and it would try to turn over, the rpms would be around 400 and you can hear the engine barely running, when i let go of the key it just shuts off

If anyone could answer any of these questions it would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks

 

[DSM_Texas]

maybe your timing jumped a tooth bruh.

 

[Ambitions]

Wouldn't the car start still if it jumped a tooth? sorry I'm kinda new to all of this..

 

[andrewshowers]

Boost leak, I would check all hoses and whatnot to make sure its all good.

 

[Ambitions]

Boost leak, I would check all hoses and whatnot to make sure its all good.

Would a boost leak cause it to idle like that?

 

[c2ypt1c]

Your BISS probably needs adjustment and check your isc motor:
DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement - YouTube

 

[Ambitions]

Your BISS probably needs adjustment and check your isc motor

would that cause the car to not want to turn over? it used to start up decently, and if the rpms would drop normally I could rev it to like 1200 and it would stay around 900-1000 but when I would drive, if I took it out of gear, it would do the same thing and just want to die.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Hmm, sounds like your battery and/or alternator might be taking a dump...might want to check those out too.

 

[Ambitions]

I just recently changed the battery, Maybe it could be the alternator

 

[c2ypt1c]

For slow crank (and no start) read this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

As for idle issues, the first things that come to mind are those that I've previously mentioned.

 

[Ambitions]

So i just talked to a guy and he said that it could also be the MAF sensor, do you think that could be an issue? also, I will be pulling the ecu this weekend to check that out.

 

[undefined0000]

I'm having kinda the same problems too, mine is boost related because it ran fine when the FPR wasnt being vacuum actuated due to it being hooked up to a non-working vacuum gauge, but now that it is, since the ecu is trying to compensate for the extra lean running, it makes the car bog down and messes everything up. boost leaks are an absolute pain, and as everyone is telling me in my thread, do a boost leak test, cause I really need to as well!

 

[Ambitions]

I'm having kinda the same problems too, mine is boost related because it ran fine when the FPR wasnt being vacuum actuated due to it being hooked up to a non-working vacuum gauge, but now that it is, since the ecu is trying to compensate for the extra lean running, it makes the car bog down and messes everything up. boost leaks are an absolute pain, and as everyone is telling me in my thread, do a boost leak test, cause I really need to as well!

Are you having all of the problems or just some? I'll also try doing a boost leak test this weekend too to see if that could be the case

 

[g4ebguy90]

When I had bad boost leak issues on my 1G, the car would start and idle fine.

As soon as you took off around 1500 it would fall flat on its face. Misfire pop, then take off.

Also to answer your other questions if the timing were off 1 or 2 teeth, the car should still start, idle pretty low but should still run. Would possibly die if any load was put on it.

 

[Ambitions]

the car would normally idle alright, aside from the random times where it would drop.. and it would also occasionally jump to about 1500 and then go back down after a bit, So i don't think the timing jumped.

 

[c2ypt1c]

he said that it could also be the MAF sensor

It wouldn't cause a slow crank and would probably show a check-engine light if something was wrong.

At this point, I'm not sure if we're dealing with two seperate issues: slow crank and idle. If they are both related then I would say the cause is your battery and alternater, respectively. However, you said that you replaced the battery so, the problems may in fact be exclusive...

As for idle, also make sure the vacuum line from the bov is properly connected to the intake manifold (and I hope you're recirculating the bov).

 

[Ambitions]

It wouldn't cause a slow crank and would probably show a check-engine light if something was wrong.

At this point, I'm not sure if we're dealing with two seperate issues: slow crank and idle. If they are both related then I would say the cause is your battery and alternater, respectively. However, you said that you replaced the battery so, the problems may in fact be exclusive...

As for idle, also make sure the vacuum line from the bov is properly connected to the intake manifold (and I hope you're recirculating the bov).

The idle issues have been happening before, the not starting issue just came up tonight and it is the first time it has done this. I haven't noticed any issues with the battery and starting since i changed it about 2 weeks ago. I'll check the vacuum line tomorrow, and yes my bov is recirculated.

 

[boostdawd]

Try this:

Check the voltage with the engine running on the battery. It should be anywhere from 13-14v if your charging system is working ok.

Boost leak test for sure

Test your IAC sensor

Check the ecu for any leaking caps

What is the vaccum at during idle?

Recheck ## ignition timing as well as your engine timing

Finally do a compression check

 

[Ambitions]

Try this:

Check the voltage with the engine running on the battery. It should be anywhere from 13-14v if your charging system is working ok.

Boost leak test for sure

Test your IAC sensor

Check the ecu for any leaking caps

What is the vaccum at during idle?

Recheck ## ignition timing as well as your engine timing

Finally do a compression check

Well I cant check the voltage when running because it wont start, I'll check all those things you stated and get back this weekend, vacuum is around 12 at idle

 

[dsmotors95]

most likely a boost leak..i had the same problem with mine..i think it depends on the amount of leak it has..i dont think its your alternator ### that wouldnt affect the idle issue..try checking the couplers for ripped ones or wear..

 

[undefined0000]

Are you having all of the problems or just some? I'll also try doing a boost leak test this weekend too to see if that could be the case

Mine is auto, so im not sure if it makes a difference, but yeah. Its only stalled once on me,and that was going in reverse up a steep hill, but it really gets down there, the I guess the ecu is like "crap" and it starts to try and pick up, sputtering and putting along the way, but when I'm giving it throttle, its fine. I know for a fact I have atleast one massive leak, just gotta pin-point it.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Well I cant check the voltage when running because it wont start

Oh, I missed that part...thought you were just having problems with it cranking over. In that case, check the voltage when it's not running If it is not 12v, then you, sir, have a bad alternator (and/or battery). If it checks out, go through that checklist I posted earlier in post #10.

 

[Thugmaster1220]

There check lists posted above are all relevant problems. So definitetly check those issues out. BLT of course, should be the first priority. If the car isnt recieving the correct boost pressure the ECU may not understand how to compensate for the problem, thus making the car run poorly.

First thing I would do, is check the CELs.

My 2g awd Tsi Talon was having similar issues. It turned out that the combination of a bad MAF and a bad front O2 sensor cause terrible idle issues.

Check the CELs and check for boost leaks. Boost leaks seems like minor issues but can cause havoc!

 

[Ambitions]

I have everything for the boost leak tester except the cap to drill the stem into.. can't seem to find a 3 inch one anywhere.. im positive it has a boost leak which is why I havent been driving it.. right now it at 4800 its at around 8-9 psi, but it used to be able to start.. I also plan to check the fuel pressure too since im having some issues with that.. at idle it is extremely lean and then wot its really rich

 

[undefined0000]

So you're still having no-start? Think you could make a video and post it here? Mostly just for the sound. A good amount of times, I could tell what was wrong with my old cars just by listening to how they would try to start up.