2G Is this limp mode and what is the fix?

[my dreamt dsm]

Okay I searched on google, dsm talk, dsm purity, and tuners and got mix reviews. Found a lot of info for automatic limp mode but I'm 5 speed.

My deal is one day I launched the car around 4k rpm
Ever since then the car feels really sluggish. When the car is cool or before operating temp (needle in the middle of hot and cold gauge) it runs fine. Now I have the ceddy mod on for engine light to come on when knock occurs. And it seems to come on after it hits operating temp, and around 2300-2500 rpm's every gear unless I baby the throttle. It also comes on if I'm cruising on the freeway and give it more then 30% throttle to pass a car to switch lane.
The stupid thing is that when I log it on evoscan 2.9 no knock shows up and showing that my car sometimes hit 5k rpms or 7600 rpms which is crazy. When I check for diagnostic trouble shoot on evoscan and it keeps popping up vehicle speed sensor.
- No boost leaks
- Compression test show's mid to high 180 psi
- Mods up to date
- At idle shows a steady 18-20 vacuum
- NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON before or after the ceddy flash

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Okay I took off the battery for bout 10 minutes. Plug it in and ran it for 40 miles to get the monitors ready. Still showing knock and running sluggish. Still, no check engine light. I'm not sure if limp mode would throw a check engine light.

Idea's or experiences similar anyone?
I've been on google going over all the forums. 3si.org, mustangs, genesis, honda's, vw's

 

[H@xtGSX]

Limp is for the Autos that have a TCU, not a manual.

Evoscan 2.9 gave me nothing but problems. I switched back to 2.6 and have no issues with it now... 2.9 was giving me all kinds of bad readings.

When you look up the CEL codes, are you looking them up under DTC or OBD2 on the drop down menu on the bottom left of the diagnostic window where they show up?

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Limp is for the Autos that have a TCU, not a manual.

Evoscan 2.9 gave me nothing but problems. I switched back to 2.6 and have no issues with it now... 2.9 was giving me all kinds of bad readings.

It sounds to me like you torched the clutch. If it is sprung and you popped a spring out, it will make a bunch of noise in the housing that the knock sensor may trigger for.

It would do it constantly though if it were that...

When you look up the CEL codes, are you looking them up under DTC or OBD2 on the drop down menu on the bottom left of the diagnostic window where they show up?

I don't understand why I always hit knock at 2300 2500 rpms. When I do hit that particular rpm's my boost is at 0psi just getting out of vacuum.
When I look for cell I look up under dtc. It's still reading veichle speed sensor. Although my speedo is reading fine.
My next guess is something related to pressure. Maybe MDI sensor? Thanks for even giving me a tip. When I checked the thread with over 100 views and no input. I was feeling pretty hopeless

 

[H@xtGSX]

There isn't nearly as many of us using Evoscan and ECU Flash... It'll take a while for the right people to see it.

Try using just the OBD2 setting. DTC was just flat wrong when I tried to use it. My scanner told me exactly what the codes were... OBD2 correlated to the scanner, DTC did not. Use OBD2 and check those codes. That should help point in the right direction.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Hummm! Besides the logging. I'm starting to think it's a sensor also. So when it see's boost it's either the knock sensor which is fine, the 02 reading lean, fuel pump not putting out enough fuel during boost say 1-2 psi or bad fuel injector?

 

[H@xtGSX]

Take the knock sensor off the block and run it. If it acts better, there is the likely culprit.

As for the fueling, really, you need a wideband, but you can log the O2 voltage also and use that as a ballpark reference. Look at it in relation to the lbs/min airflow, and if it is trending downward as the airflow rises, you have a fueling issue. If it is fairly linear, and gradually falls away from the air flow curve, its probably the pump or FPR. If it follows the airflow and then sharply stops, you may have injector issues. Pull the plugs after running it a bit also and see if you have any light brown or wet plugs. Vacuum test the FPR. Log the voltage output also, just in case maybe the voltage is dropping off and the fuel pump is struggling.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Thanks Frank. I'll try that out.

 

[H@xtGSX]

You are very welcome, and I hope it helps. Really, we deal with only 4 things... Air, fuel, compression, and spark. Eliminate the variables that modify each of those elements one by one, and you always find the root of the problem.

Just as a side, I noticed mine seems to flicker knock at 2500 rpm also... Very consistantly. I haven't really tracked it recently, but it seems to give a little knock flicker at the same spot you are seeing. I am going to start looking into it myself now.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Cool. Hope we find something. I'm going to start logging my car tomorrow. I'll c if I have time to post a log.

 

[colbyc]

You can set the knock parameters within Ecuflash I would only suggest doing so before load though.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

You can set the knock parameters within Ecuflash I would only suggest doing so before load though.

You mean the cel on knocksum? I have it on 3 units.

 

[colbyc]

You mean the cel on knocksum? I have it on 3 units.

No the actual parameters within the ecu.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

No the actual parameters within the ecu.

My bad. Now I'm lost.

 

[colbyc]

my bad. Now i'm lost.

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[my dreamt dsm]

My screen don't look like that. I don't have big maps btw.

 

[mclovin89]

ok so im having close to the same problem, but my car is all stock non-turbo
5 speed, and my car will only hit 4 grand every gear no matter what.

While its in gear and it hits 4 grand it feel like knock or fuel cut, but in idle it seems like its governed which I know its not, but one it hits in neutral if I let off just a bit but still keep on the gas it will push past until I start to push the gas back in then it drops right back to 4 grand.

I bought the car for $500 brought it back to life everything runs fine except this problem I can not figure out for the life of me, sensors ive replaced, cam, crank, knock, map, pressure, now I'm lost and all I can think is the ecu is fried, any suggestions would be helpful