The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Is this a good buy?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AMPPRC

10+ Year Contributor
114
0
Sep 30, 2008
Desoto, Missouri
the bad: Needs a passenger door handle and the headliner is ugly in the car. The driver seat has a rip.#

The good: Evo III Cast Manifold#
Evo III O2 Sensor Housing#
Custom 2.5" Downpipe/Test Pipe#
Custom 3" Cat Back#
Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Evo III Big 16G Turbo#
Forge Motorsports BOV#
Slowboy Racing LICP#
Hallman Pro RX manual Boost Controller#
Autometer Boost Gauge#
Autometer Pyrometer#
Autometer A/F Meter#
KYB GR-2 Shocks#
Pro Line Alloy 17 X 7 Racing Wheels#
Replacement OE TSi springs all around.#
The fuel filter, plugs, wires, serpentine belt, timing belt, balance belt and water pump were replaced at around 97,000.#
The top radiator hose and one of the other coolant hoses on the turbo had just been replaced.#

Has 123,000 miles#

It is AWD. It has an auto t-5 tranny.#
Gets 300 hp to the wheels because it runs 16-18 psi.#
Will also get 29 MPG if ya baby the throttle.#

For $4,250
 
^^ LOL for real 1g 2g? its something i think we'd all like to take a look at before really telling you. seems like a fair price though maybe a little overpriced. just a tad. just saying though..
 
I'm guessing its a 2g based off the price. Without receipts it might as well be stock.
 
Knock off a grand and its a decent price assuming its a 2g#
I also don't see it getting 29 mpg especially without a tune and it being AWD#
Get reciepts for all the claimed work done#
Look for the typical rust spots & the strut towers#
Post pics#
 
photos
I have seen it and drove it. shifts good every thing works even the gagues on the pillar. no rust on shock towers or any where else
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I just did my driver side door handle. The handle was $12 shipped off ebay, and I took it to my local bodyshop. They had it painted to the color off my firewall, and clear coat. Cost at the body shop was $35 (which was $25 more than the dealership quoted me and they use the same body shop!!). It took me a little over an hour to put in (stupid bolt behind the glass).

Headliner, go to your local hobby craft store (Jo-Anne's, Walmart, Target, anyplace that sells fabric). Get 3m, or Elmers SPRAY glue (there is a ton of different glues, so make sure you do a little research before buying cheap glue or you will get a saggin headliner). I paid under $40 to do my headliner, and I have done a couple of them now.

As for the seat, either pick up a used set (I have seen them on here for less than $100), or get them redone. Buy seat covers for now....

As far as the price it isn't too bad. A car with 120K plus miles, and all those parts means that it probably wasn't babied, might be a little abused in fact. Be prepared that probably isn't a jewel. What kind of tuning has been done? Does it have a logger? It says A/F guage, that is just a pretty thing that dances back and forth, a wideband would be a much better tool to fill that spot. How clean is the body, can you get a look under the car? Does it come from a city/state that uses salt ont he roads? If it was me, I would pay 4k, then have another 1k sitting on the side to go through and fix the stuff that is going to go wrong. Hope some of this helps in your decision. And by the way 29mpg is on the highway maybe.....think more along the lines of getting 20mpg in the city if you baby it....just being real.
 
I just did my driver side door handle. The handle was $12 shipped off ebay, and I took it to my local bodyshop. They had it painted to the color off my firewall, and clear coat. Cost at the body shop was $35 (which was $25 more than the dealership quoted me and they use the same body shop!!). It took me a little over an hour to put in (stupid bolt behind the glass).

Headliner, go to your local hobby craft store (Jo-Anne's, Walmart, Target, anyplace that sells fabric). Get 3m, or Elmers SPRAY glue (there is a ton of different glues, so make sure you do a little research before buying cheap glue or you will get a saggin headliner). I paid under $40 to do my headliner, and I have done a couple of them now.

As for the seat, either pick up a used set (I have seen them on here for less than $100), or get them redone. Buy seat covers for now....

As far as the price it isn't too bad. A car with 120K plus miles, and all those parts means that it probably wasn't babied, might be a little abused in fact. Be prepared that probably isn't a jewel. What kind of tuning has been done? Does it have a logger? It says A/F guage, that is just a pretty thing that dances back and forth, a wideband would be a much better tool to fill that spot. How clean is the body, can you get a look under the car? Does it come from a city/state that uses salt ont he roads? If it was me, I would pay 4k, then have another 1k sitting on the side to go through and fix the stuff that is going to go wrong. Hope some of this helps in your decision. And by the way 29mpg is on the highway maybe.....think more along the lines of getting 20mpg in the city if you baby it....just being real.

thanks for the advice i have out door handles on these cars before they are a pain. i never tried to the headliner it seems kind of hard but its worth a try for only $40. i do realize that he was off on the mpg
 
Be sure to do a compression test and remove the oil cap and look at the color of the head with a flashlight. if it is relatively silver then oil was changed regularly, if it is amber colored or darker, oil changes were neglected so the motor is likely taxed. also be weary of crank walk. ask seller reasons for selling as well.
 
Be sure to do a compression test and remove the oil cap and look at the color of the head with a flashlight. if it is relatively silver then oil was changed regularly, if it is amber colored or darker, oil changes were neglected so the motor is likely taxed. also be weary of crank walk. ask seller reasons for selling as well.

yea i will do a compression test and check the color of the head.
 
herm... there is a 98 (?) at one of my stops (commercial driver) with 80K miles for $3200. over $4K seems kinda high to me. this one's body and interior is in beautiful shape. haven't seen the engine because i'm always working :p see if you can talk him down to like... $3800 -nods-
 
Yeah I stick with my post. Try to get him under 4k, then keep another 1k ready. I see a 16g, but no injectors or fuel pump? Is the paint kinda dull, or is that the camera? Can't really tell but how do the tires look? Is there uneven wear spots at all (inside/outside of tires). The mods are pretty good except for the "custom" exhaust. That usually means he took it to an exhaust shop and had them crush bend an exhaust, and I would ditch it for a real madrel exhaust (Apexi, HKS, Meagen, ect...). If your going to buy the car get a logger ASAP, a wideband, and possibly a FMIC. Is the BOV venting to atmosphere, or does he have it recirc properly?

Here are some things to chec,k that are easy to do:
1. Pull off the wheel and look at the rotor and pads, how much is left, and how do the rotors look.
2. Pull off the intake pipe off the turbo and wiggle the shaft in and out, and up and down. If there is shaft play, plan on changing the turbo....
3. Also have him drive the car and you follow, try to follow him in a good pull and check for smoke coming out of the exhaust. (smoke could indicate bad turbo seal)
4. Compression check, and check the oil cap.
5. If you can get the car on a lift, check the underside and look for rust anywhere.
5. Does the boost hold SOLID or does it spike up, or go up and then fall down? You said it is at 16-18psi, doe it go higher than that?

Overall I don't think its a bad price, everyone is going to have stories about how they paid $1 for theirs, but honestly the price isn't that bad. I paid 8k for mine a month ago (99GSX MINT and STOCK). It comes down to do you have the 4k, and do you have another 1k sitting to the side to fix the stuff that is going to break on a car that has probably been run pretty hard, is more than 10 years old, and has 120k miles.
 
Last edited:
As long as he's got receipts..seems like a fair buy, but unsure about the 29mpg, i have never averaged better that 25, than again i have a heavy foot.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top