2G Is it safe to run 20w-50 vr1?

[August578]

Hi quick question I'm upgrading to an fp green and wanted to know if I safe to run valvoline vr1 20w-50 oil straight up. I have a 4g64 btw

I know this topic is everywhere but just wanted to make sure I don't have to have certain clearances to run this oil.

Thanks

 

[Tigerinstincts]

Unless your engine was built for heavier weight oils, no you should not just decide to run 20w50. You're supposed to run higher weight oils when your clearances (rod/main bearings) are spec'd on the looser side. This is primarily done on track-only cars since the engine lives in the higher rpms for most of its life. The thermal energy produced is so dynamic that the engine needs looser tolerances to account for any changes between it's journal surfaces.

Thicker oil may not necessarily protect your turbo unless, of course, it's journal bearings have worn significantly and needs thicker oil to take up the extra slack. At that point, it would be smarter to rebuild the turbo.

Oils with higher ZDDP is a much more ideal and proven way to protect your turbo's shaft and journals. However, not all oils with ZDDP are formulated equally; the same oil that decreases engine break-in wear may also increase long-term wear.

All things considered, I currently run 5w40 on a "stock clearance" built engine.

 

[TheDude236]

Here is a helpful PDF I found on the forums from Forced Performance themselves about what weight oils to run in "Race Engines". They define a bunch of terms on page one, so dont skip it, and be sure to read as much as you can.
This is for a 4g63t, granted, but might give you some helpful pointers depending on your internals and whatnot.

Edit: The poster above is correct, though. Pretty sure this PDF echoes what he said.

 

[jdxnc]

I've run VR1 for the last 12 years, it is GREAT oil, however it doesn't contain the same detergents like normal oil and will tend to get dark quicker.

They make more weights than 20w50, for years I ran a blend of 3x 10w30+2x 20w50, gave me ideal oil pressure, about 20 psi warm idle and 90 psi at 8000rpm. You engine will tell you what weight it likes, first step, get a real oil pressure gauge. Now with a built engine I run 20w50 alone straight.

It won't kill your car for sure, especially if it has higher mileage but the first step is to get a real gauge and go from there. Some people freak out over higher oil pressure... you can't run 20w50 in a stock motor blah blah.... but chances are the motor has 100k+ miles on it now, everything is worn and oil pressure is lower than it once was to begin with.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I break in all of my engines on 10W30 conventional oil. I change to 20W50 after the 1000 mile mark or so. Usually it is Lucas 10W30 Break In OIl, then switch to Lucas 20W50 Break In Oil up to 500-1000 miles. After that, I run VR1 20W50 in 4g63's and a conventional 20W50 in my other engines. If you are in a very cold climate, I would recommend only 10W40 or 5W30 when it is its coldest. Just what I have ran for over 40 years. You pick your favorite brand. I am partial to Valvoline, Castrol, Lucas products myself. I have even ran straight 50wt oil in some of my SBC's in the summer. Just my .02¢

 

[llxkevinxll]

For what it is worth, I run Mobil1 15W-50 in my Talon. It is on FP's approved list and can be had for $30/5qt at Walmart. GM's High Performance Supplement for the track spec cars (1LEs/ZL1s/Z06s etc.) specifically calls out this oil for track use and they cover you under warranty even if you abuse the cars, so I would assume it holds up well. I run it full time in both the Camaro and the Talon.

 

[chrysler kid]

The vr1 20w50 they sell at auto parts stores is conventional oil. I wouldn't reccomend it a being conventional its life expectancy os pretty short

Again its up to personal preference, but if its a daily driver; 20w50 is very thick on a cold start. Especially if you have balance shafts deleted

I run t5 10w30 rotella. Though its mainly because of price point more than anything. Personally I feel like todays synthetics have too many detergents for an older vehicle, but my old vehicles dont see long distance or heavy commuting.

My vehicles are very lightly modified, im more concearned with clean oil than type of oil. Im sure my opinion would change if I had a big turbo build, but I dont so yeah

 

[August578]

Awesome thanks a lot guys really helpful info and my stock engine just hit 100k miles and I also have a oil pressure gauge.

I'm out in socal and the lowest I've seen is about 45F and it is a daily driver.

Just to be on the safer side I think I'll return the 20w-50 vr1 and see if I can find some 10w-30 vr1 and work from there so it's not as big of a jump and on the fp list.

 

[RamenPride]

Awesome thanks a lot guys really helpful info and my stock engine just hit 100k miles and I also have a oil pressure gauge.

What weight oil are you currently using, and what's your oil pressure look like?

 

[August578]

I was running valve synth 10w-30 the normal one. After switching from mobile 1 5w-30.

But since the green is a brand new turbo I'm switching again.

My oil pressure was pretty standard compared to other dsm forum posts

I only got a gauge after switching to the 10w-30

Cold start like 80-90psi
Warm idle around 12psi

 

[August578]

Also for the vr1 should I use convent or synth?

 

[jdxnc]

The vr1 20w50 they sell at auto parts stores is conventional oil. I wouldn't reccomend it a being conventional its life expectancy os pretty short

Again its up to personal preference, but if its a daily driver; 20w50 is very thick on a cold start. Especially if you have balance shafts deleted

I run t5 10w30 rotella. Though its mainly because of price point more than anything. Personally I feel like todays synthetics have too many detergents for an older vehicle, but my old vehicles dont see long distance or heavy commuting.

My vehicles are very lightly modified, im more concearned with clean oil than type of oil. Im sure my opinion would change if I had a big turbo build, but I dont so yeah

I've run nothing but the VR1 conventional, it's perfectly fine, 12 years and 80k miles later, zero bearing or turbo issues. These cars don't need synthetic, period.

 

[jdxnc]

Also for the vr1 should I use convent or synth?

Don't waste your money on synthetic.

 

[August578]

Thanks sounds like a plan

 

[Tigerinstincts]

Also for the vr1 should I use convent or synth?

Not sure about others on here but I try to change my oil every 3k-ish miles. Because of that, I stick with conventional oils unless there's a screaming deal on synthetics.

But since the green is a brand new turbo I'm switching again.

My oil pressure was pretty standard compared to other dsm forum posts
Cold start like 80-90psi
Warm idle around 12psi

Oil pressure looks good and since the turbo is brand new, I would just stick with your standard 5w30/10w30 weight oils. Just choose a good brand (like the VR1 you're going with) with a known ZDDP content.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If you aren't sure what oils have ZZDP in them, I have a 2021 post about them HERE.

 

[August578]

Awesome info thanks a lot guys. These were the answers I was looking for

 

[diambo4life]

That VR1 is perfect at any tempts above freezing....

 

[JusMX141]

Is the car stock? Do you drive the car daily? Unless you're having low-pressure issues or dealing with oil consumption past the rings or valve guides with whatever oil you're currently using, do not just drop 20W50 in and assume all will be well. I've had turbo customers with catastrophic failures in the past when using 20W50 on daily-driven cars which were running inline oil filters to the turbo in cold weather climates. If it's a weekend or fair-weather car which spends it's life in a heated garage you'd probably be OK....but going straight to that thick of an engine oil for no other reason than you felt it was a good idea isn't wise.

You're on the right track with a racing-specific oil, just make sure it's the correct weight your engine and driving habits require. Don't use diesel oil.

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[1cleangsx]

Holy Cow, Rotella T6 is exactly what I planned on running once my motor hit 1,000 miles . I’ve got about 650 on it so far with fantastic oil pressure on 10w-30 conventional, 85-90psi cold and 28psi warm idle, this is currently in colder Wyoming winter weather, should I just stay at a conventional 10w-30? The motor seems happy so far with it

 

[motomattx]

That VR1 is perfect at any tempts above freezing....

Correct!

 

[enriquez2000]

Cold start like 80-90psi
Warm idle around 12psi

did anyone else read this and get concerned... 12psi warm oil seems very low... i lost 2 oil squirters and was idling at 12psi with those 2 big holes internally.

Id want to see that number closer to 20 myself

 

[August578]

did anyone else read this and get concerned... 12psi warm oil seems very low... i lost 2 oil squirters and was idling at 12psi with those 2 big holes internally.

Id want to see that number closer to 20 myself

I did check again at warm idle, around 180-200F and its actually more like 15/16psi idle at like 750 + -, Not sure if that makes much of a difference.

Also my oil pressure is typically at what speed im going if that makes sense.
For example :

30mph = 30psi either 10 above or 10 less (depending on load)
60mph = 60 - 70psi (or anywhere above in that range)

Basically its around whatever my mphs if that makes sense. Obviously anything below 20mph its basically at normal psi.

I also don't have oil squirters since its a stock 64 block. So im not sure if that factors in...

 

[August578]

My oil pressure switch connector on the filter housing is also broke and I never reconnected it since i have an aftermarket gauge, but I'm not sure if that makes a difference either.

 

[enriquez2000]

I did check again at warm idle, around 180-200F and its actually more like 15/16psi idle at like 750 + -, Not sure if that makes much of a difference.

Also my oil pressure is typically at what speed im going if that makes sense.
For example :

30mph = 30psi either 10 above or 10 less (depending on load)
60mph = 60 - 70psi (or anywhere above in that range)

Basically its around whatever my mphs if that makes sense. Obviously anything below 20mph its basically at normal psi.

I also don't have oil squirters since its a stock 64 block. So im not sure if that factors in...

Oil squirters only matter if they fall out and cause an internal oil hemorhage.

Your pressure is probably acceptable if its 15 to 16... but at 10 id be worried myself