The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Installing Wheel Bearings

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EvolvingGST

20+ Year Contributor
1,710
6
Jun 24, 2002
Boston, Massachusetts
Hey guys I am looking to replace wheel bearings I was looking for some write ups... but from what I understand in a 2G its a bolt on assembly and no press is required... If anyone has any more info it would be great.
 
Yep, they just bolt on. Take off the axle nut, and all the ball joints to remove the spindle assembly. Then on the inside, there are 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing in. Take them out, knock out the old bearing and install the new one.

Have fun getting all the rusty bolts off and be prepared to break things. My axle nut was rust welded to everything and I had to get new spindles. I'm glad my car was from MI :rolleyes:
 
hahah thanks bro... wish me luck :thumb: ... Since you are the only one to answer me you :rocks:
 
I wish 1g's were that easy.. I have to press mine in and had to get inner and out seals. Now I have to press in the hub's oh joy :( Good luck on the install, it should be pretty simple though.
 
Here's a warning for the 2g-style bearings: If you are using an air-ratchet and a special bearing puller, (looks like a regular puller, bolts onto the lugs, a threaded shaft seats onto the end of the axle, the other end is driven by an air tool) if you do it for too long and the bearing does not come out, the end of the axle may mushroom out on you, making it impossible to get the bearing off. This happened to me when I took my car to Sears Auto to replace the bearing. Fixing the problem without buying a new axle involved grinding away at the mushroomed portion and re-grinding the threads so the castle nut could go back on.

I've also had Mitsubishi replace two of my other bearings that started to fail (I'm just waiting for that fourth one to go). Both times, the bearing DID NOT come off, so the tech had to TORCH through the bearing and through the axle, destroying them both. If you have to do this, be careful of the speed sensor, since it's about $100 and if you can disconnect it or avoid torching it, do so at all costs. Just a cautionary tale. Both visits for replacing a bearing at Mitsubishi were about $500-$700 each time.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top