Installing Rocker Arms with Cams Installed

[TalonJohn94]

I had to pull out my HLA's to bleed them. It wasn't too difficult to pry the rocker arms off with the cams installed, in order to pull the lifters out.

According to the VFAQ, I should Use the flat-bladed screwdriver underneath the rocker as a lever to lift rocker arm end onto the lifter tip. I don't know if its because I had my machinist use +1mm valves on the valve job -- but it seems impossible to reinstall the rocker arms under the cams.

Any tricks?

 

[DSM Jeff]

I use this, Schley Products, Inc , 99700 DOHC Hydraulic Valve Lifter Removal Tool - Mitsubishi / Chrysler

 

[donniekak]

The trick is called coordination. You pry up on the end of the rocker that goes over the hla, depressing the valve. While doing this move the end of the rocker over the hla, with a second screw driver, and let it down onto it.

 

[romeen]

I had to pull out my HLA's to bleed them. It wasn't too difficult to pry the rocker arms off with the cams installed, in order to pull the lifters out.

According to the VFAQ, I should Use the flat-bladed screwdriver underneath the rocker as a lever to lift rocker arm end onto the lifter tip. I don't know if its because I had my machinist use +1mm valves on the valve job -- but it seems impossible to reinstall the rocker arms under the cams.

Any tricks?

You may have already seen this but kenamond's r&r tech article is a really good one.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/265060-how-replace-lash-adjusters-lifters.html

I know you don't have the tool that DSM Jeff is talking about but this how to use the tool video by snowborder714 still might give you some ideas.

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I use this, Schley Products, Inc , 99700 DOHC Hydraulic Valve Lifter Removal Tool - Mitsubishi / Chrysler

I have it too. It makes this so easy.

 

[snowborder714]

I have a few videos in here that show how to put the rocker arms back in when the cams are still installed.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...34-diy-lash-adjuster-lifter-removal-tool.html

Edit: And Romeen beat me to it

 

[TalonJohn94]

Wow, great responses guys. Thanks.

One concern: When using the special tool, aren't you risking pushing the retainer down far enough to where the keeper(s) could pop out and drop the valve?

 

[romeen]

Wow, great responses guys. Thanks.

One concern: When using the special tool, aren't you risking pushing the retainer down far enough to where the keeper(s) could pop out and drop the valve?

That has never crossed my mind and I've never heard of it happening. The tool puts load on only one side of the retainer. This might act to keep the retainer from sliding down (I'm speculating). I think that for that to happen you need even pressure all the way around the retainer like all of the spring compressors that I've seen.

 

[-red97rum-]

It's not that hard, you just have to take your time. I've done it a few times now and I can do them pretty fast. This is the same method I found in a write up a while back.

I use a small pry bar/big screw driver, couple shop rags and a phillips head screwdriver.

Roll up a shop rag or two to use as your pry bar's pivot point. The rolled up rag will be set on the edge of the spark plug tube. Put the rocker on the valve stem you are working on and hold it next to the lifter you're working on. While holding the rocker with one hand, start prying it up and towards the lifter it needs to seat on. Once you start prying and your other hand is free use the phillips head screw driver to compress the lifter so that the rocker will slip over it. I use a medium sized phillips head because it fits into the oiling hole of the lifter making it easier to press down. Once the rocker is over the edge of the lifter slip the phillips out while prying in the direction of the lifter and the rocker will "click" right on. After you get one or two of them it's pretty easy.

*Edit - The special tool mentioned above makes this a breeze, you should buy one if you have the time to wait for shipping.

 

[TalonJohn94]

Ok, did as you guys suggested but also a friend help. Took out all the lifters and pushed the internal valve in an pumped what little oil was in there out. This improved my compression on two cylinder but still a no-start.

But as far as this thread goes, thanks for the help.

 

[LiquidX]

Wow all that work to put the rocker arms back on. Here is an easier solution...

Bleed down each lifter so it depresses on it's own.
Install lifter into hole.
Rotate cam so lobes are away from where the rocker would sit.
Slide in rocker by HAND over the valve and then the lifter.



Should only take 1 360 turn of the cam to install all the rockers by putting in the rockers on each available lifter pending on cam lobe position. No tools required to install.

I've done this method multiple times and the only time you need a pry bar is to take them out, not put them back in.

Be sure to prime your oil system prior to starting the car.

 

[romeen]

Ok, did as you guys suggested but also a friend help. Took out all the lifters and pushed the internal valve in an pumped what little oil was in there out. This improved my compression on two cylinder but still a no-start.

But as far as this thread goes, thanks for the help.

I still think the best thing to do at this point is pressurize each cylinder individually like suggested in the other thread. This will take the guess work out of it and tell you exactly where you are losing compression from.

Did you notice if all the valves were moving freely when rotating the cams?

 

[-red97rum-]

Wow all that work to put the rocker arms back on. Here is an easier solution...

Bleed down each lifter so it depresses on it's own.
Install lifter into hole.
Rotate cam so lobes are away from where the rocker would sit.
Slide in rocker by HAND over the valve and then the lifter.

This is what I have done more than a couple times and it still doesn't go on by hand. Some slight prying is needed to get over the tip of the lifter.

 

[LiquidX]

I'm going by my experience as I've never had to use anything to put the rockers back on following the method I posted. Maybe I'm just He-Man strong

 

[TalonJohn94]

I still think the best thing to do at this point is pressurize each cylinder individually like suggested in the other thread. This will take the guess work out of it and tell you exactly where you are losing compression from.

Did you notice if all the valves were moving freely when rotating the cams?

Yeah, I think the valves were moving freely. I think one time we had to spin the crank a little bit because the valve might have been contacting a piston but generally the cams/crank was spinning freely.

I want to pressurize the cylinders but I don't have an air compressor.

 

[TalonJohn94]

What was strange is when I originally put everything together all the cylinders had about 70psi, WITHOUT the internal valve depressed on the new lifters (unable to compress by hand). After I took the lifters back out and pushed the valve in and purged the little bit of oil out I reinstalled. Then, I did a compression test on cylinder 1 - which gave me 100psi. Then I did cylinder 2 - which gave me 80psi. Then I did cylinder number 3 and 4 which both gave me 70psi again.

So it seems that when I did the compression test right after purging the lifters it produced a higher psi in the first cylinder I tested, and diminished in each cylinder after. Does anyone think this could be lifter related?

Does anyone have a leakdown tester I could borrow, in which I would just pay shipping both ways?