In this article I will show you how to replace the often cracked/damaged motor mounts that are found in most DSM's. Before I begin let me remind everyone that I do not assume any responsibility for any damage to vehicle/person while attempting this procedure.
Tools needed
1. Hydraulic jack, 2x4 piece of wood
2. Usual size sockets/wrenches for Mitsubishi (10,12,14,17,19mm)
3. Air impact wrench (not needed but recommended)
4. PB Blaster (not necessary, but just in case theres any bolts seized)
5. Breaker bar
6. Use of shop press (recommended) or torch and dremel type tool
First off, as usual disconnect the battery before beginning this modification. In fact take the battery completely out of the car because you'll need to get to the motor mount beside the battery tray. Then, remove the passenger side front tire and jack the car up. I decided to replace the drivers side motor mount first, it is the easiest to get to, and also pretty simple to remove. You will want to use a hydraulic jack stand and a 2x4 piece of wood to place under the oil pan to support the engine while taking the engine mount out. Once the engine is supported start by disconnecting the power steering line that runs above the mount, it will make things a lot easier when removing/installing the mount. Then remove all bolts and studs holding the motor mount in. There should be a total of 4 bolts, 2 nuts/washers, and one stud/nut (through center of mount). You may have to use a breaker bar to loosen some of these, it just depends how tight they are on there. Once you have everything out remove the old mount and then replace with the new one, heres a picture of old mount compared to new mount, it's in pretty bad shape (picture 1). Luckily I was able to find a set of used motor mounts that already had all the inserts installed, if you are going to be using your old mounts you will either need to get the old oem mounts pressed out (recommended, much easier) or hack away at them with a torch, dremel type tool, and a lot of patience.
Next, the second motor mount, above transmission. This one is a little harder to get too. This is where taking the battery out is necessary. First, make sure battery is removed, then remove the battery tray underneath. There should be five bolts holding it in. Move the jack and 2x4 underneath the transmission to support engine. In the passenger side fender well you will see four rubber caps in a square formation to the right of the shock. Take the rubber caps off and remove the four bolts connected to the motor mount (see picture 2). Be careful when removing these you don't want any to fall into the frame of the car. Once those are out remove the stud/nut from the center of the mount (picture 3). Remove the mount, get the insert pressed out (recommended) and re-install with new piece. Now this part can be a little tricky, just use the hydraulic jack to your advantage and align the mount to get all bolts and the stud into place. Once everything is in just double check everything and tighten anything that may be loose. Once that is done remove the hydraulic jack.
The third mount is going to be located behind and underneath the intake manifold. From past experience I decided not to install this one with everything in, it is much easier to do if you're changing your clutch or the transmission is out, otherwise it is a complete hassle. If you do decide to replace this one take the two bolts out that are holding it down, remove the stud/nut from the center of the mount and install the replacement.
The last mount is going to be pretty easy in comparison to the rest. It is located below the exhaust manifold on the sub frame. There are going to be a total of 2 bolts holding it in, and one stud through the center. (see picture 4). Unlike the other mounts this one just has two inserts that are inserted into the original mount. Once the inserts are in, reinstall the mount, make sure everything is tight and that's it!
After you have all the new motor mounts in go ahead and reinstall the battery tray, battery, and tire; lower the car and enjoy you new ride. Heres a pic of how the new drivers side motor mount looks (picture 5).
Tools needed
1. Hydraulic jack, 2x4 piece of wood
2. Usual size sockets/wrenches for Mitsubishi (10,12,14,17,19mm)
3. Air impact wrench (not needed but recommended)
4. PB Blaster (not necessary, but just in case theres any bolts seized)
5. Breaker bar
6. Use of shop press (recommended) or torch and dremel type tool
First off, as usual disconnect the battery before beginning this modification. In fact take the battery completely out of the car because you'll need to get to the motor mount beside the battery tray. Then, remove the passenger side front tire and jack the car up. I decided to replace the drivers side motor mount first, it is the easiest to get to, and also pretty simple to remove. You will want to use a hydraulic jack stand and a 2x4 piece of wood to place under the oil pan to support the engine while taking the engine mount out. Once the engine is supported start by disconnecting the power steering line that runs above the mount, it will make things a lot easier when removing/installing the mount. Then remove all bolts and studs holding the motor mount in. There should be a total of 4 bolts, 2 nuts/washers, and one stud/nut (through center of mount). You may have to use a breaker bar to loosen some of these, it just depends how tight they are on there. Once you have everything out remove the old mount and then replace with the new one, heres a picture of old mount compared to new mount, it's in pretty bad shape (picture 1). Luckily I was able to find a set of used motor mounts that already had all the inserts installed, if you are going to be using your old mounts you will either need to get the old oem mounts pressed out (recommended, much easier) or hack away at them with a torch, dremel type tool, and a lot of patience.
Next, the second motor mount, above transmission. This one is a little harder to get too. This is where taking the battery out is necessary. First, make sure battery is removed, then remove the battery tray underneath. There should be five bolts holding it in. Move the jack and 2x4 underneath the transmission to support engine. In the passenger side fender well you will see four rubber caps in a square formation to the right of the shock. Take the rubber caps off and remove the four bolts connected to the motor mount (see picture 2). Be careful when removing these you don't want any to fall into the frame of the car. Once those are out remove the stud/nut from the center of the mount (picture 3). Remove the mount, get the insert pressed out (recommended) and re-install with new piece. Now this part can be a little tricky, just use the hydraulic jack to your advantage and align the mount to get all bolts and the stud into place. Once everything is in just double check everything and tighten anything that may be loose. Once that is done remove the hydraulic jack.
The third mount is going to be located behind and underneath the intake manifold. From past experience I decided not to install this one with everything in, it is much easier to do if you're changing your clutch or the transmission is out, otherwise it is a complete hassle. If you do decide to replace this one take the two bolts out that are holding it down, remove the stud/nut from the center of the mount and install the replacement.
The last mount is going to be pretty easy in comparison to the rest. It is located below the exhaust manifold on the sub frame. There are going to be a total of 2 bolts holding it in, and one stud through the center. (see picture 4). Unlike the other mounts this one just has two inserts that are inserted into the original mount. Once the inserts are in, reinstall the mount, make sure everything is tight and that's it!
After you have all the new motor mounts in go ahead and reinstall the battery tray, battery, and tire; lower the car and enjoy you new ride. Heres a pic of how the new drivers side motor mount looks (picture 5).
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