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Installation of my turbo stuff

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napkinthief said:
Ok so if I sleeve the pipes over one another, what else do I need. Is there wire or anything. Do I heat both pipes on the edge or melt one over the other? I have electrode sticks for arc welding I think, but I dunno if I should mess with them. I tried using one and it started sparking and not melting right, maybe I had the temp wrong. My bottles are damn small. 16oz

You would use a filler rod (its a thin 2.5 foot long piece of steel wire) and a lap weld( where the top plate is melted into the lower plate). I dont see the harm in using oxy on a down pipe for a short time. But with the amount you have avalible, it would probably cost more in oxy and act. then to just mig or arc weld it. My exhaust has held up for two years and is not leaking, yay.

If your electrode was melting the metal and spattering then it was to high. If it was just spattering and making little metal beads on the surface then it was to low.
 
I found a shop that will weld me up a downpipe for 60 bucks I just need the flanges, which I already have. Problem is it is about 10 miles away. Would there be any harm in putting everything in, and running no exhaust after the turbo for about 10 miles? How loud would it be at idle and say 2500 rpms? I dont plan on going over 2500
 
I think it would sound just like an open DP. So it will be loud, but who cares, LOL

If it was me driving I would be paranoid about the exhaust gases (and maybe even flames) heating up the upper radiator hose and causeing it to burst. But I doubt that would happen.
 
Don't run it without exhaust at all. That will melt that upper radiator hose for sure, probably the fan too. Get a friend with a truck, and a tow strap at walmart and have him pull you to the muffler shop.
 
My other option could be hook up all the piping to where it should go, keep the stock manifold on and drive there. Pull off the manifold and botl up the turbo manifold and everything, but I would need to plug the oil lines. I dont know anyone with a truck.
 
napkinthief said:
My other option could be hook up all the piping to where it should go, keep the stock manifold on and drive there. Pull off the manifold and botl up the turbo manifold and everything, but I would need to plug the oil lines. I dont know anyone with a truck.

You could have them weld a small section of the downpipe to the outlet flange so at least the exhaust will be routed to the ground. You obviously wouldn't want to keep it like that, but it would at least let you get to the shop so they could finish everything up.
 
Just wanted to give ya guys an update.

I am still unsure of the downpipe, will figure that out as soon as I figure out to how route the ic piping.

I finally got the ic piping, well packaged, nice product, but kind of thin walled. The package did come with 2 90* silicone bends and enough t-bolt clamps and couplers for the whole rig. I dont know how to route the turbo to intercooler pipe though.

For the ic > throttle body, I used a 60* then another 60* and it dropped perfectly into place with only a small 90* required to connect to the ic. I have only 2 90* pipes though, and one 90* coupler. Other pipes I have are 2 45*s and 2 straight pieces. I was thinking of cutting the frame a little on the driver side of the radiator, and running a pipe through there, but I am not sure. Would I need a 180* bend for the turbo outlet to make this fit? I will take pics tommorrow if its not as cold as it was today.
 
napkinthief said:
I was thinking of cutting the frame a little on the driver side of the radiator, and running a pipe through there, but I am not sure. Would I need a 180* bend for the turbo outlet to make this fit? I will take pics tommorrow if its not as cold as it was today.

Yah, bring on the pics, then we'll make suggestions. :thumb:
 
Yes I am having it face down, but I am going to need a weird s shaped pipe or something to make it fit, I may just cut down the pipes I have and force it to fit. I got a 3" 90* press bent from autozone, and cut it down to size and used that for the final 90 from the intake pipe to the intercooler's driver side. I will have pics up for you guys tommorrow by 4ish pm. I was real busy today and couldn't do much, just drove around looking for a welders shop, found one to weld the flange to a 90* pipe for 40 bucks, which aint too bad.

I do have one pic of my intercooler mounted on the car after the first rough install. It is only there with one screw, and it rotates and stuff, no pipes on it, or anything, but I still get people revving at me and its funny. It really fills my bumper well, but I dont recommend the guy I purchased from, 3 weeks to get what I ordered, and there were scratches everywhere.
 
hmm, I guess I should post my pics up since someone else is finally going short route for once...fyi, I used an ebay universal piping kit consisting of only 90's ;)
 
I wish my kit was only 90s. I have 2 90s, 2 straight, 2 45* and 2 60*.
 
I cant seem to figure out which is the oil sensor socket. I found 2 socket type things on the back of the block looking up. One of them had a red clip, and then slid off with a little prying of the little clip. I thought it was the oil sensor, but as I was attempting to remove it, I found another compeltely black sensor more over to the left. Here are a couple pictures, let me know which one is the oil one asap, I want to try to get this done today.
 
pics
 

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The oil pressure sender is on the far left; as far left as you can go.

Here's where CAPS says it is...
 

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Ok so I was wrong, thanks paul. You make this turbo stuff so much easier. Will be putting in that fcd and let u know how it works as soon as I get the feed and drain in.
 
napkinthief said:
Ok so I was wrong, thanks paul. You make this turbo stuff so much easier. Will be putting in that fcd and let u know how it works as soon as I get the feed and drain in.

Sounds good. Good luck with the feed line, it was such a PITA when I did it - mucho leaks. I already told you that, though, didn't I? Either way, make sure you tighten all of those fittings as best you can, and then some. The drain is much easier; are you welding a bung into the oil pan, or using a bulkhead fitting?
 
I am using a bulkhead, and will be dropping the pan in about an hour. This sensor is a pita. I got the removal tool from autozone, and it slipped off and cracked part of theplastic. I gave up with that tool and tried using a vice grip without locking it, it will spin the sensor but I am not sure if its coming out slowly or just spinning in place. There less than 1 hand's working space in there for me. I just pulled my manifold and put the turbo wastegate and other manifold on to see how it looks and I almost creamed my pants im so excited but these stupid little things are taking forever. I would also like to add that I cant get the wires off the sensor. I dont know where the pushclip is and I dont know how to release it, unless it already broke off.
 
napkinthief said:
I am using a bulkhead, and will be dropping the pan in about an hour. This sensor is a pita. I got the removal tool from autozone, and it slipped off and cracked part of theplastic. I gave up with that tool and tried using a vice grip without locking it, it will spin the sensor but I am not sure if its coming out slowly or just spinning in place. There less than 1 hand's working space in there for me. I just pulled my manifold and put the turbo wastegate and other manifold on to see how it looks and I almost creamed my pants im so excited but these stupid little things are taking forever. I would also like to add that I cant get the wires off the sensor. I dont know where the pushclip is and I dont know how to release it, unless it already broke off.

I take it you're not going to re-use the sender? If so, I'd just cut the wires off.

As for this "tool" you bought, it's a type of socket, correct? Using the socket, I was able to get it off in seconds. When all I had was vice-grips, however, the task seemed impossible. I'd stick with the removal tool you got, or, just break the plastic part off and use a standard 1 1/16" socket to get it out.
 
Yea its a socket and it has a slot in it for the wire to go through, like the o2 sensor socket. The wire just snapped off so I guess I am not using it anymore. I have a oil pressure gauge but no sender from autometer, gotta find a sender now.

I will try using the 1 1/16 socket now, if it doesn't work ima take a hammer to it, or a chisel or something.
 
napkinthief said:
I will try using the 1 1/16 socket now, if it doesn't work ima take a hammer to it, or a chisel or something.

WTF

Whoa... what are you talking about here? If you break that sender off inside the block, you'll pretty much be screwed - you shouldn't need a hammer under any circumstances. The socket should work just fine anyway.
 
I cant get the socket to stay on the sender, I think those idiots at autozone gave me the wrong one... It may be one size too big because when it is on completely, it wiggles and is not secured to the bolt. How many full turns does it take to get it out?
 
napkinthief said:
I cant get the socket to stay on the sender, I think those idiots at autozone gave me the wrong one... It may be one size too big because when it is on completely, it wiggles and is not secured to the bolt. How many full turns does it take to get it out?

Quite a few turns; at least five or so. I would just get the standard 1 1/16" socket and be done with it. I did a little trial and error and found that that's the exact size.
 
Well Ive been turning it since about 1 pm. I got over 50 turns on it with my vice grip and I finally gave up. I am going to go look for a 1 1/16 socket, biggest I have is a 1 incher. Wasted the whole day doing this. Still gotta drop the pan and put in the fitting. Replace the manifold, work the rest of the pipes from turbo > intercooler. Hopefully I find this socket and swap out the feed line tonight, then I will be able to drop the pan, bring it inside and make sure the fitting in there is nice and tight. Tommorrow wake up, put the pan back on, fill up the oil, drop in the turbo, finish the pipes and go.
 
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