Installation of my turbo stuff

[XMasta19]

...as it's been said over and over, oil pressure sending unit socket = 1 1/16"

 

[napkinthief]

Just thought about something. Since my bulkhead fitting is 1/2", would I be able to use the drain plug instead of tapping the pan? Then when i change oil I can just take that out? Would it conflict with anything since its below the oil level? This would make this install MUCH easier, as I dont have to take off the crossmember, oil pan, then reassemble.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

It won't work... not only is the drain hole below oil level, but the return hose would have to take a pretty convoluted route. Furthermore, I think you're getting thread size and head size mixed up. While the oil drain plug might take a 1/2" wrench, its threaded portion is less than 1/2" wide. The bulkhead fitting is 1/2" wide where the threads are; thus, it's probably too big to even fit.

Just drill a hole and tighten everything up. Sure, you'll have to drop the oil pan and make sure everything is clean, but it's probably one of the least difficult processes throughout this whole turbo install.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Sure, you'll have to drop the oil pan, but it's probably one of the least difficult processes throughout this whole turbo install.

Yeah, once you figure out how to get it back in. When I did it, I had a fitting braized to the pan, unfortunantly it was interfering with the A/C pump bracket, so I had to hold the pan up there, and pull it down numerous times as I took a dremel to that bracket to allow clearance. Eventually I got a strategy in getting her back up though haha.

Napkin, that socket shouldn't have a slit in the side for any wires. It should just be like a really big deep socket with a weird pattern inside. Since the clip comes out of the sensor, there is no need for a slit in this type of socket. It should be in the tools section of Autozone labeled "Oil sensor switch socket". Or you can just go with the 1 1/16

 

[napkinthief]

I just made the 8 pm closing time for autozone, and I was happy I found the last 1 1/16" socket on the shelf. I come home, take out my ratchet and its too big rofl. Funny how these kinda things always happen. Ill be back at autozone at 7 am tommorrow freaking the guy out, last customer and first customer.....

Its too dark now anyway, I was just gonna use my flashlight, but I thought about it I worked enough today, even though barely anything got accomplished.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Um... something is way wrong here. Either you've seriously rounded off the sender with those vise grips, or you got the wrong socket. 1 1/16" is the size that fits the sender; I'm positive.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I thought he was saying the socket was for a 1/2 inch ratchet instead of 3/8. This one could go either way.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I thought he was saying the socket was for a 1/2 inch ratchet instead of 3/8. This one could go either way.

Ha... that's true. Clarify for us Nap.

 

[napkinthief]

+1 for dsmcrazy, I bought a 1/2" drive instead of a 3/8" drive. Now I have to buy a 1/2" ratchet.

Has a nice bowling night, all relaxed and ready for the big day. Tommorrow is a double big day actually, I am supposed to be hearing from a company I interviewed at last week for a decent paying computer tech job.


Good news and bad news about the job. Bad first, I am going to have to get a new car because mine is just feeling un reliable lately. Good news, I plan to make it more reliable by swapping in a 5 speed and rebuilding the engine

 

[VelocitàPaola]

+1 for dsmcrazy, I bought a 1/2" drive instead of a 3/8" drive. Now I have to buy a 1/2" ratchet.

Well that's alot better than it not fitting the sender. You could always just buy an adapter ($5.99 from Sears; 1/2"->3/8").

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...OOL&pid=00904259000&subcat=Socket+Accessories

 

[napkinthief]

Other way around the socket is 1/2" and I have a 3/8" ratchet. I am going for round 2 vs the oil pressure sender right now. Ding.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Other way around the socket is 1/2" and I have a 3/8" ratchet. I am going for round 2 vs the oil pressure sender right now. Ding.

Whatever. You can still find an adapter for that. Anyway, good luck.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

It's still better that he go ahead and get a 1/2" ratchet. If he doesn't have one of those already, I don't really see how he has all the proper tools to take on a project like this. Just a lack of equipment really. Looks like you're getting it done though.

 

[napkinthief]

The tools I own are a 3/8 ratchet with metric and standard units, I think 24 total sizes. A vice grips, needlenose pliers, wire cutters, a torque wrench, and a breaker bar. I have access to other tools through my uncle (general contractor) and my dad (upholsterer).

Did a lot of things today, and woulda been done if I didn't jerk around as much as I did. First I finally got the oil sensor out using a 1 1/16 oil sensor socket with an extra deep groove, the guy at advanced auto found it behind the counter and said its for chrysler vehicles only. Anyway, pulled it, threw in the 3/8 nipple, and the tee, plugged in my feed line and the sensor in the other side of the tee. The sensor is not connected to anything, but it is currently acting as a plug for the other side of the tee. So my feed was done, I decided to install the manifold,wastegate, turbo contraption. Put the feed line onto it, cranked the engine a few times and the oil came flying out the drain side of the turbo and went everywhere, but I was happy that the turbo spun and the oil went through.

Next I decided to finish my intercooler piping, which I got most of done. I cut the bumper slightly (the actual white bumper inside the cover) to allow the piping to enter its hollow gap. I have pictures of this I will post soon.

Then came the oil pan. The final step in my mind. I knew it was going to be simple, but it was a pita. I thought I got all the bolts off, but I didn't, and there was one hidden behind some kind of support for the tranny. Taking off those 2 bolts for that support, I slipped 4 times, cut my hand twice, and bruised my finger. They had to be on there over 100 lbs. Laying under my car and pulling on my ratchet, I actually dragged myself across towards it. Anyway I finally just decided to put the ratchet on and kick it till it came off, and it was a success.

As for the bulkhead fitting, I cut it not perfectly round, so there is a gap that needs to be welded now, aren't I so damn lucky? Anyway, I am just going to put on some jbweld, which is supposed to be good to 600*, and I dont think my oil should ever reach 600*.


As of right now, the car sits in my driveway, no oil pan on it, completely dry from oil, no downpipe connected to the turbo, half the pipes from turbo to intercooler and a little bit of frame cutting and I should be done.

Will post pics soon to stay tuned. (haha corny joke)

 

[napkinthief]

heres some pics of intercooler, piping routed, cut bumper, stupid lookin green engine, and bov strapped on with snake clamps. Its coming out soon.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Why the hell is the BOV held on with those clamps? If the turbo is on, why aren't there any pics of it. That's all we really care to see. hehe

Get it done and fire it up..Make sure that JB weld has cured completely though.

 

[napkinthief]

I have a very good explanation. I tried one last time to get the sender out with the 1 1/16 deep socket I had but it didn;t work. So I went to advance auto and got the special socket, then came back and everything was hot, so I decided to work on the intercooler piping while the car cooled off. Thats what I did then put the turbo in, but by that time, my phone's battery was already dead. Thats why you see pics of the car, then just the oil pan, I was planning on getting some pics of the feed but my phone died. I had some really good angles, and I definetly plan on writing a guide.


I did the jbweld about 10 minutes before those pics, and am going to install it tommorrow around noon. I think that should give it enough time. I put a lot to make sure its leak free, taking the oil pan off is not something I wanna do again in the near future.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I did the jbweld about 10 minutes before those pics, and am going to install it tommorrow around noon. I think that should give it enough time. I put a lot to make sure its leak free, taking the oil pan off is not something I wanna do again in the near future.

Sorry to be a killjoy, but you better pray that JBWeld holds up. It's a great product, but without significant prep. work, it simply won't adhere to such a non-porous surface such as a steel oil pan.

I did the same as you, I put the bulkhead fitting in (along with a nylon washer on either side), and tightened it as much as possible. I don't think I had as much of a gap as you, but I used JBWeld just to be sure. It was the quick dry stuff, but I still gave it overnight to cure. The next day, when I was tightening the return line, the whole bulkhead rotated maybe 1/8".

Luckily, I think the nylon washers did their job, because I haven't seen any leaks since then. What is your bulkhead made of (I can't see it under all of the JBWeld)? Unless it's steel, you won't be able to weld it directly to the oil pan. If it's brass you'll probably be able to braze it on later.

One last thing, put oil back in your car as soon as possible. You don't want to leave the engine without oil for more than a day or two.

 

[napkinthief]

It will only be without oil until noon time tommorrow.

Its a brass fitting, and I used the real 12 hour curing jbweld. The 4 minute stuff is not as durable or strong, and has a temp limit of 250*, but its only 4 minutes.

I just wanted to make sure there was enough jbweld on there to make sure any possible leaks were contained, and I spread out the goo like that because of trial and error. More surface area for it to stick to, the more chance of it holding longer.

As for the gap, I would say it was 1/2 the thickness of a dime, but any gap is a bad gap.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

As for the gap, I would say it was 1/2 the thickness of a dime, but any gap is a bad gap.

Did you have any washers on there? I think you'll be ok if you did what you said (especially if the gap was that small), but in my case, I really think the washers made the difference.

 

[napkinthief]

Negative on the washers I thought about it, but didn't have any onhand to put in so I just tightened as much as I can.

 

[napkinthief]

Oil feed wont stop leaking, drain is not leaking. I turned the car on finally, without a downpipe just to see if its all good, turbo blows blue smoke like no tommorrow, shot oil out everywhere. I hate used parts and I am about to toss the project. I need more piping to route, and I cant stop the feed from leaking, its as tight as possible. with teflon

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Oil feed wont stop leaking, drain is not leaking. I turned the car on finally, without a downpipe just to see if its all good, turbo blows blue smoke like no tommorrow, shot oil out everywhere. I hate used parts and I am about to toss the project. I need more piping to route, and I cant stop the feed from leaking, its as tight as possible. with teflon

Take pictures of the feed if possible. I bet you anything it can be tighter. When mine began to leak, I took a long handled wrench to it and just went to town. I was able to turn the whole thing about six more times... no leaks after that.

Sounds like your turbo's seals might be bad too. Sorry to see that right off the line. Rebuild it?

 

[napkinthief]

I dont know right now. My car has been down the past few days and its damn boring living between my driveway and my house. I may just put the kit on ebay and sell the car and pick up a gsx Ive been looking at.

Tommorrow is last chance day for this turbo thing. If it dont work I am going to toss it.

I am thinking about removing the feed completley, and putting it together outside of the block, then screwing it into the block, that way I can tighten everything as much as possible. If the turbo seals are shot, I dont think I will rebuild, I will sell and buy a smaller turbo. The turbo spools I know that, but up at 3300-3400 rpms. I dont have a way to monitor my oil now other than my dipstick and looking under the car. Hope to change that soon, but I am really close to broke.

I needed another 2.5" 90* coupler, and I go to a local speed shop and he rips me off for 60$ for it. I say w.e and dish over 60 bucks. Get home, cut it to size, and try to put it on, and the dumbass gave me a 2.25 not a 2.5. I go back, and he goes we cant return it but I will sell you another one.

I am just really mad and pissed right now. I left my car on the jackstands, I hope no one steals me stock bent up rims.

 

[97eclipsesleepr]

Sounds like your turbo's seals might be bad too. Sorry to see that right off the line. Rebuild it?

thats sounds like it to me, oh well, how do you think the BOv will hold with thise clamps? just wondering, did it not come with a flange or do you not want to weld it on?