Installation of my turbo stuff

[selmerguy]

Hey about the exhaust, I would not, I repeat would not even think about putting the turbo on it with less than 2.5" piping.

Please go find a GST and least throw that on, because I have seen people blow their turbo's on the same day as install because they didn't open the exhaust up.

Turbulence and heat will come back to haunt you with the stock exhaust.

Your exhaust temps will reach 1200-1600 degrees F (depending where you source) under normal boost conditions, and will be much hotter with a smaller exhaust.

The bigger exhaust isnt' about performance, as much as it is about effeciancey. The more air you can get out the more you can get in, and when your forcing air in, you want to get it out as quickly and effeciantly as possible.

If that and what I said dosent get it through your head then you will just have to blow your sh!t up and then lets us say we told you so.

 

[BigRand]

Yes that is the one I cut, but no it wont fit there because the other inlet on the ic would be stuck behind the horn.

Also the factory downpipe is the same size as the rest of my exhaust so how would getting a bigger downpipe decrease the restriction if it just gets narrowed down at the end.

Okay lesson number 1: When moding any car, you have to start from the ends. That means Intake on one side, and Exhaust on the other.

They are expecting you to already have a bigger higher performance exahust installed.

Lesson number 2: The factor downpipe and exhaust system were meant for Naturally aspirated cars......this obviously won't effect you right now, because all the turbo stuff isn't connected yet. But What ever turbo you do put on, won't utilize the factory piping at all. (So trash it, or sell it or whatever).

My advice and pretty much anyone else who works on cars will tell you to buy a bigger exhaust. And since you don't have a downpipe made for your turbo yet, you might want to consider getting all of that at once. The CAT is always optional, but its also the perfect time for a cat delete or a highflow cat.


I'm not dissing on you or anything man, I'm just more concerend about saving your motor, and not having another 420a guy complain about blowing his motor or whatever when he didn't do it right.

 

[napkinthief]

Didn't know it was that intense with the exhaust. I want to keep a cat because it is a street car that needs to pass emissions. I guess I am going to have to wait a little while longer to turbo this thing then. Until then, I will continue with the installation, mounting the ic, fabricating piping etc. Thanks for the info.

I can probably get a cheap used gst exhaust from the junkyard and bolt it on until I get enough for a 3" full. Would that be ok to use with a 3" downpipe?

 

[cs82685]

Sorry to hijack,

but now i'm worried about my exhaust setup b/c i'm still on stock piping and am waiting till may when I'm out of school to put on a 3". So will the the bigger exhaust change your egts that much because the highest i've had them was 1575 on a long 3rd gear pull down the track. Is it possible that the exhaust is the sole reason for the egts getting that high? Oh well I'm gonna get bigger injectors and the exhaust anyways.

 

[napkinthief]

Ok I am going to make a 3" all the way back from the turbo. So far this is what I have:

Turbo flange
90* Tight radius 3" mandrel bend
3" exhaust piping
90* 3" mandrel bend
3"x6" flex
Flange for 3" cat
3" cat
Flange for 3" catback
<pre>
|=|t3/t4 flange|
||
||
\\
\===~flex~==||=cat==||=====
</pre>
This is where I get lost becuase the stock piping straight going to the passenger side of the vehicle, then goes back to the driver side and over the rear axle, then back down and out the driver side. Will 3" piping fit up in there where the stock piping is or do I just have to have it hang below the stock exhaust location and stick out a little then go under the rear axle?

Found some posts but none on the nt.

 

[napkinthief]

just got a star manifold with external w/g flange. should I port the manifold and the turbo inlet to the same size of the gasket?

 

[XMasta19]

aka gasket matching

 

[napkinthief]

few questions

1. where can I get the bolts for the turbo > manifold? I have one bolt from a 13b o2 housing that fits well but I want new ones.

2. if I use a 1/8" tap to tap the turbo without putting a flange on it, would it cause problems? I can hook up a 1/8" flare to it then and the hose to that.

3. when is JRC going back up?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I just went to a hardware store for the bolts. Satan told me they had to be special ordered.

They're 10mm fine-thread bolts. Many people will tell you to get grade 8 or 10 bolts; I have grade 5s, and they do just fine.

 

[selmerguy]

I just went to a hardware store for the bolts. Satan told me they had to be special ordered.

They're 10mm fine-thread bolts. Many people will tell you to get grade 8 or 10 bolts; I have grade 5s, and they do just fine.

Agreed. I got mine at lowes.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Hey about the exhaust, I would not, I repeat would not even think about putting the turbo on it with less than 2.5" piping.

Please go find a GST and least throw that on, because I have seen people blow their turbo's on the same day as install because they didn't open the exhaust up.

Sorry to be so late with the responses here... I was AWOL for a week or so.

Anyway, the GS-T exhaust is the same diameter as the GS or RS exhaust (they're all 2.25"). The only difference is the muffler.

Running the stock exhaust with a turbocharged 420A can't be that bad... Stage I Hahn kits, which support up to 5 psi, don't require any exhaust modifications. It isn't even fully necessary with their Stage II kits, although at that point, they do recommend it.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

2. if I use a 1/8" tap to tap the turbo without putting a flange on it, would it cause problems? I can hook up a 1/8" flare to it then and the hose to that.

What are you talking about here? Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm a MHI turbo guy...), but you only need a flange for the oil outlet. If you're talking about the outlet, than a 1/8" flare will be too small. You'll need at least 8-AN lines, which accept a 1/2" flare fitting.

Even so, if you directly tap the turbo, you'll have to deal with the holes that the flange bolts to. In all of the turbos I've seen, these holes go straight through, and would need to be plugged in order to prevent oil loss.

Furthermore, there really isn't enough metal to tap and create a proper seal.

Suck it up and get a flange on eBay - they're only about $15. Automotive performance shops around your area (if there are any) should also carry them, albeit for a slightly higher cost.

 

[XMasta19]

Tyrus is currently moving, thus the jrc site being down at the moment...have to talk with him to see when he expects it back up and running.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

if you directly tap the turbo, you'll have to deal with the holes that the flange bolts to. In all of the turbos I've seen, these holes go straight through, and would need to be plugged in order to prevent oil loss.

Not true...For the feed, yes there are 3 holes, 2 bolt, one oil port. You're right about the bolt holes going all the way through, but it has nothing to do with the flow of oil. That is strictly the middle port.

Many people, including myself screw a fitting into the turbo. Mine came with that hole threaded.

 

[napkinthief]

Yea I am talking about the feed. It is a 1/8 drilled, no threads. I was thinking of tapping it and putting a fitting in there for the feed. It seems like there is a LOT of metal there to tap, don't know if you are on the same part of the turbo as I am.

 

[XMasta19]

My turbo came tapped on the feed side with 1/8 threads, but you can also get a flange that bolts up and has the threads for you....it's up to you on that one

 

[Talon ESI-T]

When you tap the turbo where is the metal from the tap going to go? What will happen if one little tiny piece or shred of metal gets to the turbo bearings?

Terry

 

[VelocitàPaola]

It seems like there is a LOT of metal there to tap, don't know if you are on the same part of the turbo as I am.

The feed is a different story, I was assuming you were talking about the outlet since you mentioned a flange.

I would just be cautious and heed Terry's warning.

Here's an eBay auction for an inlet flange: it comes with bolts, washers, the flange and a gasket... $23 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F7-T...ewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8045865739QQrdZ1

 

[XMasta19]

what size is his feed line? that's for -4, and if he's running 3an, then he won't want to use that oil restrictor.

 

[napkinthief]

what would the difference be if it was a 4an or a 3an line? the 4 would flow more? and what is the deal with the restrictors, i see some flanges with them and some without, do I need one?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

what size is his feed line? that's for -4, and if he's running 3an, then he won't want to use that oil restrictor.

WTF

3-AN lines are smaller than 4-AN lines. If he's using a 3-AN line, then there will be no restriction.

Stick with 4-AN lines though; they're pretty much the standard feed line, and you'll find the most fittings for it.

 

[Blitzeclips]

So would that make it 4an feed 6an return? Return line usually runs bigger because the turbo whips the oil into a thicker, cloudy substance so a larger return line would be necessary in most cases. ALso, anyone know what fittings to tap into the oil pan? I'm assuming the same as mentioned before, but where is the best location for tapping the feed line? I was going to run the Return line at the top dead center then feed on the lower left of the pan... Any suggestions before the brazing begins??

P.s- I'm doing a write up on my turbo install. Pics and everything...

 

[XMasta19]

umm, I know that 3an is smaller than 4an My point was that if he's using a 3an line, then he doesn't want to have an oil restrictor Return line is much bigger, more like a -10.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

XMasta... sorry, I still don't understand what you're trying to say.

ALso, anyone know what fittings to tap into the oil pan? I'm assuming the same as mentioned before, but where is the best location for tapping the feed line? I was going to run the Return line at the top dead center then feed on the lower left of the pan... Any suggestions before the brazing begins??

I used a bulkhead fitting, along with two nylon washers, meant for tapping into oil pans - no brazing required. I was concerned about leakage, but after tightening everything as best I could, not one drop of oil was spilled (from the return line at least...). They're available in anodized aluminum from Summit.

As for where to tap the "feed line [sic]," do you mean return line?
If you meant feed line...
I took out the old oil pressure sender and installed a brass tee fitting from Lowe's (3/8"). On one end of the tee I put a sender for an aftermarket gauge, and on the other end I put the various reducers and the feed line. It is routed snugly along the side of the engine block, next to the hard heater core/coolant lines.

You can't tap the oil pan for the feed line, there is no pressure there to drive oil through the turbo. The stock oil pressure sender location is pretty much your only choice.

If you meant return line...
When in doubt, listen to HRC:

 

[XMasta19]

oooh, copyright!!!!