Information, tips and tricks for dropping in a 4G63 into a 91 Talon

[alansupra94]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone has any tips and tricks for removing and dropping in a 4G63 into a 91 Talon TSI. The car I bought has the engine outside of the car and needs to be dropped in. Its a brand new rebuild motor with 0 miles. Is there some sort of repair manual that has all the steps and torque specs by any chance?

I mainly plan on keeping this stock and cleaning it up for daily driver usage.

BTW: I have a engine lift, engine leveler, tranny lift and a 2 car garage with plenty of room to work.

 

[cmptrphreak]

Buy a chiltons manual from autozone/pepboys . It has all the torque specs and everything you will need.

 

[alansupra94]

Buy a chiltons manual from autozone/pepboys . It has all the torque specs and everything you will need.

Okay thanks!

Just double checking is 160psi good compression numbers? Also is there a way I can check for crankwalk quickly with the engine out of the car?

Just trying to make sure I am not buying a fairly large brick

 

[tjbiker031]

i believe 160 across is actually perfect. And this crankwalk thing is over rated. it happened when the engines were first made. sure a couple will here and there, but actually all engines will about the same. but if you want to know how to check, click the links below

Check your FWD for crankwalk

AWD Crankwalk Check

 

[crimsondragon]

Flip the engine upside down. Remove oil pan, pry crank towards clutch side carefully as far as possible. Measure the space between the crank and the main caps. Should be no more than .005".

 

[jdodds]

Drop the motor straight in. Its really not that hard on a 1g. The hard part is wrestling with the transmission to get it on.

 

[kris_stewart10]

yea bro i have had a time with 1g's and just watch with the tranny and check all your fluids(my fluids werent up to date - Thanks DANIEL ) anyways just watch for your hands too i have scars galore on my hands from my old gst

 

[alansupra94]

Flip the engine upside down. Remove oil pan, pry crank towards clutch side carefully as far as possible. Measure the space between the crank and the main caps. Should be no more than .005".

Sweet thanks, I will have to find my digital feeler gauge...somewhere in my garage.

yea bro i have had a time with 1g's and just watch with the tranny and check all your fluids(my fluids werent up to date - Thanks DANIEL ) anyways just watch for your hands too i have scars galore on my hands from my old gst

Thanks for the help, I will have some friends help me steady the engine and what not. So its seems that you normally remove the engine disconnected from the tranny. I didn't really expect that. On my supra, you remove the engine w/ the tranny still attached.

The only problem with now is that I am a little scared to crank a dry motor to test the compression. I hope he put some oil in the engine or that its on a engine lift so all I would have to do it quickly flip the motor to coat the internals.

 

[alansupra94]

what do you guys think I should do as my first set of mods besides air intake, exhaust, fuel pump and a EBC?

 

[bomper04]

as crimsondragon stated, generally crankshaft endplay shouldn't exceed .005". an easier way to check for endplay would be to use a dial indicator rather than using a feeler gauge IMO.

 

[96ETT]

So its seems that you normally remove the engine disconnected from the tranny. I didn't really expect that. On my supra, you remove the engine w/ the tranny still attached.

That is because your supra engine and tranny are positioned differently since it is rwd. It is MUCH easier to remove the engine/tranny combo on a rwd vehicle rather than fwd or awd.

 

[alansupra94]

That is because your supra engine and tranny are positioned differently since it is rwd. It is MUCH easier to remove the engine/tranny combo on a rwd vehicle rather than fwd or awd.

touche.....thanks guys I will be checking on the car tomorrow

 

[BulletShiftTSi]

Don't forget to check your turbo for shaft play. reach in the turbo and grab the shaft and try moving it in/out, up/down, left/right. a lil shaft play is ok but not too much.

First mods are usually (and i suggest) air intake, exhaust, downpipe, remove cat, walbro 255 fuel pump and get the re-wire kit other wise when you use your turn signals or something elctrical you will hear your fuel pump slowing down and speeding up cause of the old wiring.

get a adjustable fuel pressure regulator and bigger injectors, take the head off and add a mitsu 4 layer head gasket and ARP head studs. (otherwise your head will lift under enough boost)

I would go with a Manual Boost Controller becuase I trust solid parts over electrical parts. if something shorts etc you could break something. (plus a manual controller is cheaper!)

get either an SAFC or DSM-Link

maybe some 272 cams 3rd gen lifters.

and while the motor is out a good time/chance to put in a better clutch a act 2100 with street disc maybe

get some good tires! have fun!

 

[BulletShiftTSi]

p.s. check this out.

Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

again GL!

 

[alansupra94]

Sweet thanks for the information BulletShiftTsi

I plan on running 10 gauge power wires to the pump directly to the battery through a switch and a relay. I plan on getting a EBC, I have had almost 5 HKS units (over 10 years old) and they have never failed on me yet. I have a spare HKS EVC 5 so I will use that.

I don't really trust the SAFC so I MIGHT go with a DSMlink. I am not sure if I will be taking this car that high however. I think I want to located a spare engine before I do anything serious.

Also word on the street is that these motors are interference motors, is that true?

 

[BulletShiftTSi]

I'm not sure what you mean by interference motors?

The block is made out of cast iron and the head is aluminum.

The 4G63T is famous acuatlly for being one of the strongest motors aka the "bullet proof motor"

That doesn't mean things on it can't break like every other car tho.

You HAVE to keep up with the matentince on the motor too.

timing belt every 60k or less, oil changes, looking things over, all fluids etc.

the stock block and internals can take ABOUT 450hp max but I would go a lil under that to be even more on the safe side.

If you have a EBC go ahead and use it. they aren't bad I'm just a lil paronid (and probaly make a smaller pay check )

I love DSM link as well and it is easier to use but not worth it if your only doing small mods. it depends on your goals.

And I'm not sure if you noticed but the link i gave you has more links to the following stages i.e. stage 0,1,2.

p.s. 7 bolts aren't bad or "crappy" its just if you have a choice you should always go with a 6 bolt.

What are your goals with the car?

 

[evileclipse909]

Yes they are interferince motors. If the T-belt breaks you will bend valves.

 

[UGOT8UP]

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Joking , As far as mod's go, do them supporting mod's first ex: FP with rewire, Gauge's, EBC if you prefer. After that I would highly recoment the ECMlink for tuning than get that turbo and injector's

 

[alansupra94]

I'm not sure what you mean by interference motors?

The block is made out of cast iron and the head is aluminum.

The 4G63T is famous acuatlly for being one of the strongest motors aka the "bullet proof motor"

That doesn't mean things on it can't break like every other car tho.

You HAVE to keep up with the matentince on the motor too.

timing belt every 60k or less, oil changes, looking things over, all fluids etc.

the stock block and internals can take ABOUT 450hp max but I would go a lil under that to be even more on the safe side.

If you have a EBC go ahead and use it. they aren't bad I'm just a lil paronid (and probaly make a smaller pay check )

I love DSM link as well and it is easier to use but not worth it if your only doing small mods. it depends on your goals.

And I'm not sure if you noticed but the link i gave you has more links to the following stages i.e. stage 0,1,2.

p.s. 7 bolts aren't bad or "crappy" its just if you have a choice you should always go with a 6 bolt.

What are your goals with the car?

I plan to just daily driver it, I wanted an AWD car for the random snow we get in the Northeast. I thought about getting a WRX and EVO but they don't really suit me and there are just too many of them. I really wasn't even looking for a 6 bolt Talon AWD but this deal came up that anyone with a brain couldn't pass on.

 

[Marc91GSX]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone has any tips and tricks for removing and dropping in a 4G63 into a 91 Talon TSI. The car I bought has the engine outside of the car and needs to be dropped in. Its a brand new rebuild motor with 0 miles. Is there some sort of repair manual that has all the steps and torque specs by any chance?

I mainly plan on keeping this stock and cleaning it up for daily driver usage.

BTW: I have a engine lift, engine leveler, tranny lift and a 2 car garage with plenty of room to work.

Thanks for rubbing it in, I had to do my first engine in my driveway in the snow. Seriously though the guys in this thread have done a good job of answering your questions though. Well atleast most of them have.

 

[alansupra94]

Thanks for rubbing it in, I had to do my first engine in my driveway in the snow. Seriously though the guys in this thread have done a good job of answering your questions though. Well atleast most of them have.

Yeah I already bought a manual off ebay. I was thinking it would be more like Toyota Supra where there is a manual in pdf format that everyone references and uses.

Sorry I didn't mean to rub it in, I was just stating all the tools I think I would have needed.