The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Information quest for making a swap/hybrid spreadsheet.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I looked for my first one for about half a day. I looked for my second for 2 months. My first one, I got it with a complete 63 for $100. My second one, I paid $150, got it home, pulled the pan and found that #1 rod let go. So I had to buy another crank for it.

89-91 Sonata
85-87 Galant
And make sure before you go building it, that it has a 12 and 1/4 bell housing bolt spacing. Not the 13 and 1/4, that's mighty max, ram 50 stuff. Hit the junk yards with your waking shoes. Try to find the junk yards with the older cars in them, some junk yards won't have anything older than five years old or so.
 
Originally posted by spoolints04

89-91 Sonata
85-87 Galant
And make sure before you go building it, that it has a 12 and 1/4 bell housing bolt spacing. Not the 13 and 1/4, that's mighty max, ram 50 stuff.

I'm I incorrect in assuming if you get a 2.4L block from 85-87 Galant or a 89-91 Sonata it will have 12.25" bellhousing bolt spacing. Are MT and AT cars different in terms of bolt spacing? Why all the worry about getting the wrong bellhousing bolt spacing if its from a 89-91 Sonata or 85-87 Galant?
 
Originally posted by Scotty


I'm I incorrect in assuming if you get a 2.4L block from 85-87 Galant or a 89-91 Sonata it will have 12.25" bellhousing bolt spacing. Are MT and AT cars different in terms of bolt spacing? Why all the worry about getting the wrong bellhousing bolt spacing if its from a 89-91 Sonata or 85-87 Galant?

You're correct, if it comes from one of those vehicles it will be the correct block. MT/AT shouldn't have any factor on the bellhousing pattern unless it comes from a RWD vehicle. Then you'll have to check to see if it's narrow or wide.
 
Has anyone used a 90-92 Mitsubishi Expo 6-bolt 2.4l block, i am thinking that they would match up with a 4g63 head pretty well since they were made at the same time.
 
Scotty yes, those are the one's to get. It doesn't matter if it's M/T or A/T.


yhype, Get the engine code from that Expo.
 
the engine code is 4g64....I have seen it on the internet as it and in the shop manuals.
 
I decided that some vendors are already on the ball as far as good how too information.

They have more access to parts and deal with a larger volume of DSM's than me so if anyone has a ? about the motors I'll just give them the shops URL. Maybe make my own citing their work as reference material so they get credit and it is up in more places on the net.
 
Originally posted by Rogue_Ant
Galant Cam gears aren't needed... you just have to 'remark' the 4G63 ones.

Rogue

This doesn't make sense to me. Anybody want to explain a bit?

Don't the cam dowel pins have to be at 12 o'clock at TDC. I just dont see how remarking the cam gears works.
 
Actually I'd blow off remarking the gears.


Use the cam alignment tool, I forget who makes it, also use a straight edge that can reach across both sides of the cam gears.


The gears have marks at 9 and 3 o clock on both of them. If all four marks are inline as judged by the straight edge you are dead on.

Don't judge anything based on the dowel pin. It is two big in size and two close to the center of the gear to be an accurate reference of degrees of rotation.
 
wow. Nice looking block. Scotty: plase email me since you are doing the same thing I am. Im trying to figure out a parts list to mate it with the 4G63 head. Im basically understanding that you need:


1. The G4CS bottom end gasket set. Possibly for an 87 Galant 2.4L
2. 4G63 bolt ons (oil pump, front case, accessories)
3. 4G63 pulleys and crank sprocket in particular (am i wrong??)
4. holes drilled for coolant passage
5. I like the idea of knock sensor behind cyl. #1
6. Anybody tapped for internal oil squirters?
7. use G4CS crank
8. Use G4CS rods(or 4G63 6-bolt rods since i believe they are the same exact rods)
9. Duh, use 4G63 head with a 4G63 head gasket.
10. Everything else uses the DSM stuff

My main questions are bottom end stuff, i want to get a real parts list developed with actual part #'s and manufacturers. This will make it MUCH easier for people who are planning to do this swap. I also want to hear from people about the oil squirters. Im planning to run about 20 PSI out of a turbo a little larger than a 16G since the 2.4 will spool larger turbos easier than a 2.0L. Anyone with info on the setup, please email me @ [email protected]

By the way....anyone want a prestine 4G63 2.0L 6-bolt block and crank? I now have a 2.4L to build. email me for details. :dsm:
 
everything on the 6 bolt 2.4 g4cs out of the 89-91 hyundai sonata is the same as a 6 bolt 4g63 except pistons and crank. It has a 6 mm taller deck height. Everything else is the same. The same front case, same rods, you have to use a 2.4 galant timing belt, and remark your gears or get the galant ones. Everything else is the same. You dont need to drill the passages out. I, along with some others, dont add the oil squirters. I'm sure they would help but I have higher priorities and its been shown that the engine will be fine without them.

the only 2.4 6 bolt specific parts are:
crank, pistons, timing belt, cam gears.
All other parts will be the same as a 6 bolt 4g63
 
how about the gasket kit? Will a 4G63 gasket kit work? the reason I ask is because i get awesome discounts at mitsu.
 
what needs confirming? A 1g 6 bolt block and a g4cs come from the exact same casting. The blocks themselves are exactly the same, the only difference being is that the g4cs has a 6mm greater deck height. There is a g4cs block with a 2g head in my car right now, is that confirmation enough for you?
 
mitsu mighty max had a 2.4L wide block 4g64 which mates to a starion trans. the block is wider then the 63 and i have pics to prove.

would make a badass rwd setup though
 
treebonker said:
At dsmtalk you said nothing will work except the block and crank from the g4cs. :confused:
I'm just confused, can I or can't I use the "other parts"(water pump,pipe,front case/oil pump,oil filter housing,timing covers,t-belt tensioner, tensioner arm) from the G4CS.
read my post again.

6 bolt 4g63 NOT G4CS parts:
timing belt tensioner, water pump, all pulleys, front case/oil pump etc

6 bolt G4CS parts you can use:
block, crank, rods, probably balance shafts if you are lazy and leave them in. Thats pretty much it.


There are major and minor differences between sohc g4cs parts and dohc 4g63 parts, even though theyre both 6 bolts. All the timing belt stuff is DIFFERENT. I found this out the hard way. Even the balance shaft sprockets are different. I thought they were the same and there is a slight difference that causes the timing belt to stick out a cm and it could cause it to break/come loose unless you use the 6 bolt 4g63 version.

Basically what I am saying is this:
Obtain g4cs block.
Strip EVERYTHING out of it.
Keep the block, crank, and possibly the rods if you arent going aftermarket.
obtain pistons with the right diameter(87mm I believe if its .020" over)
obtain cometic or other HG (with correct diameter)
obtain galant 2.4 timing belt and cam gears
Proceed as a normal 6 bolt 4g63 rebuild.(same rods, front case/oil pump, timing belt pulleys, tensioners, and all other accessories)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top