Infiniti Q45 Throttle Body [Merged 4-8]

[SilverJester]

first off, I am posting in this forum because this is where I found part of my answer...but please move if it's in the wrong place.


I have a 2g which means I have 4 wires going to the TPS. the q45 tps has one pig tail w/ 3 wires and a short harnes w/ 3 wires. So far what I've been able to find is the the short harness is for the actual TPS and the pigtail is for the "idle validation circuit". I'm not sure what that means but I found it on some supra forums. I know that the difference between the 1g and 2g tps is that the the 4th wire (which ells the ecu if the throttle is closed) is seperate on a 1g. Could this be the same thing as "idle validation"?

So far this is the info I have come across as far as wired and what they are for:

q45 tps harness (not the pigtail):
-Red is the 5 volt input wire
-White is the TPS signal wire
-Black is the sensor return wire

2g tps harness:
1 - Green/Yellow (+5v Sensor Power)
2 - Brown/Red (TPS output voltage)
3 - Yellow/Red (IPS switch)
4 - Black (Ground)

Ok so I'm still a little confused on what wires to connect so if anyone has experience or more info t add I would appreciate it.

 

[Slippi84]

I didn't think they did on any car but just checkin . Paul this is why I was asking you about the fpr in that other thread. I have the one by the tank and the one on the rail and I saw a picture diagram on how to take the one o-ring off the rail regulator and then it's like deleting it you think that is the best solution in my situation.


On a side note can someone humor me and pull the plug on the knock sensor and see if it starts???

 

[bullettdsm]

On a side note can someone humor me and pull the plug on the knock sensor and see if it starts???

Nope and I don't even have to pull the plug. Gotta fix that wire. ECU looks for that signal.

MB

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I didn't think they did on any car but just checkin . Paul this is why I was asking you about the fpr in that other thread. I have the one by the tank and the one on the rail and I saw a picture diagram on how to take the one o-ring off the rail regulator and then it's like deleting it you think that is the best solution in my situation.


On a side note can someone humor me and pull the plug on the knock sensor and see if it starts???

You could do that (http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/fpr.html), but honestly it's probably just easier to remove the FPR in the rear of the car.

 

[Slippi84]

good cause I didn't want to mess with the one on the rail. Do I have to use the return on the rail then when I remove the other frp or can I use the stock return and the new fpr?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

If you're using the FPR on the rail, you should configure your fuel system to match that of the early model 2G N/T's. The pump output should go directly to the fuel filter, and then the rail. The return on the rail should then go directly back to the tank.

 

[Slippi84]

Knowing that you still think it would be easier to remove the fpr from near the tank because I don't even know where the return for the system is I take it it's back by the fpr.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

How is it currently configured? Where does the return port on the fuel rail lead to?

 

[Slippi84]

I have a screw blocking off the port that is made for returning fuel on the rail. I thought the stock return system would work fine because I never messed with that and there is no vaccume hooked up to the stock(rear underneath mounted) fpr so I didn't think that it would regulate fuel still but I think it still is.

Quick question can you install the AEM cam gears 180* out and still have the timing marks line up? Someone suggested that my timing may just be off. WHile the marks line up really close like a ruller would touch both lines. It may shade the bottome of the one line and the top of the other if you get what I'm saying but it would still touch both lines. I'm gonna go take a picture when I get home so you guys can see how they're on cause I don't see how I could be getting enough fuel to shoot fire out the manifold sprak at all 4 cylinders all the way to the end of the wires and still not start

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I have a screw blocking off the port that is made for returning fuel on the rail. I thought the stock return system would work fine because I never messed with that and there is no vaccume hooked up to the stock(rear underneath mounted) fpr so I didn't think that it would regulate fuel still but I think it still is.

You've got half of one fuel system, and half of another right now. You need to pick one and go with it, so here are your options:

OPTION #1
Remove the screw in the fuel rail and run a return line back to the fuel tank. Remove the rear FPR altogether and connect the feed line directly to the fuel filter. I think this is your best bet. You'll find that having a true return line is easier to adjust and tune.


OPTION #2
Disable the FPR on the stock rail.



The rear-mounted FPR's don't need vacuum to effectively regulate fuel.

 

[Slippi84]

I'm not going turbo there's nothing to adjust or tune. I didn't know that the rear fpr doesn't need a vacuum. I mean if I do the first I have to run a line all the way to the rear of the car and alter the stock setup both at the rail and at the tank. If I go with the ladder all I have to do is take the fpr off at the rail take the part of that goes into teh tube and then leave everything else the same with and just take the vacuum line off and I'm back to stock pretty much. Thanks for the help I do agree the ideal setup would be to have a true return but it's not worth it for a car that won't see boost and the fuel for teh nitrous is coming from a cell so the stock stuff will not need to be changed at any point in the system.



edit: of course there's SOMETHING to tune just it wil not be a fuel pressure change or anything like that it will be a timing thing in my case.

Ok now I'm stumped I took a look at this picture from another thread on how to correctly diasable the fpr on the rail and I have neither of the parts in the picture that your suposed to remove it's like the guy before me already did it. I have the main unit but that's it.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Ok now I'm stumped I took a look at this picture from another thread on how to correctly diasable the fpr on the rail and I have neither of the parts in the picture that your suposed to remove it's like the guy before me already did it. I have the main unit but that's it.

Well, the thing on the upper right is just a screen to remove any particulate matter, and the thing on the bottom right is the portion that you cut off of the FPR. Where did you get the fuel rail from, and why did you replace the stock one? It's possible that someone disabled the FPR before it was in your hands.

 

[Slippi84]

Well, the thing on the upper right is just a screen to remove any particulate matter, and the thing on the bottom right is the portion that you cut off of the FPR. Where did you get the fuel rail from, and why did you replace the stock one? It's possible that someone disabled the FPR before it was in your hands.

Yeah the rail I used came with the obx manifold I used. you can see it in the earlier pics of this thread. I think it's the timing to be honest. How do you know if the AEM's are on right ? We were worried about that because we thought because there are lines on both sides you could time a cam 180* out.

 

[Slippi84]

Turned out to be the timing. I had the exhaust cam gear on upside down I guess you could say cause you can install the AEM gears on either cam and I had them both on like they were Intake cams. Good thing for those valve reliefs on the wiseco pistons . Anyway I got some good pics too and by the end of the week I should have good info on all the parts. Only thing not installed is the msd dis-2 yet. Enjoy

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Slippi84]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Woot]

slippi, any info on how you made the throttle body work?
I just got mine in and by looking at it I'm a bit confused.

For example, what did you do with the vacume hoses that come out of it?
How did you wire it in?

How did you get the throttle cable to work? I see its not attached to the intake manifold like the stock one is??
Thanks man.

 

[Slippi84]

slippi, any info on how you made the throttle body work?
I just got mine in and by looking at it I'm a bit confused.

For example, what did you do with the vacume hoses that come out of it?
How did you wire it in?

How did you get the throttle cable to work? I see its not attached to the intake manifold like the stock one is??
Thanks man.

The throttle cable is a little rigged till I find a better way to mount it or find one that is a tad longer but it's now hooked up and feels reel firm. The wiring is pretty easy actually I will post a wire to wire layout when I get a chance. The only there are only two vaccume ports on the obx the other two are for water lines that help during cold starts suposedly but you don't need em. one vaccume port is for the egr and the other i'm just gonna block off but if you have a early model eclipse you can use it for the fpr. There was a vaccume hook up up front by the radiator that like loops back I have no idea what it's for but since I deleted my a/c and have a obx manifold I don't think I need it anyway. Idle is easy to raise your idle you tighten the screw to the lower left of the tb and vis versa to lower it.

 

[yellowrs]

who makes an adaptor plate to use a 1g tps on a q45 TB

 

[bling5tatus]

Either cometic or mitsu MLS. Mitsu mls's work just fine.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Thanks for the reply but I bought a gasket awhile ago. If you find a thread this old asking about a part, the original poster probably found his answer somewhere else.

 

[dsm-onster]

Just keeping the thread going for poops and smiles. . . What headgasket did you get? An oem or fel-pro composite with ARP head studs is WAY more than enough.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I put a cometic mls gasket on it. That gasket was pushing coolant due to me not check the block and head surfaces. Now I have an oem with the ARP studs on the car. Once I build the motor and put the bigger turbo on I am going to get the $180 Fel-Pro gasket for it and th new ARP sstuds.

 

[Slippi84]

Ok to this is still a work in progress due to the huge delay with the crower cam situation..but anyway hit a snag trying to figure out what the problem is. I don't think it's the IAC or the deletion of the stock IAC I should say as the car will idle and run on it's own without having to hold the rpms at a certain point but it's very speratic. My wideband is coming in tomorrow so that should help with figuring out what's up a little but when I go to give it gas it just cuts out. After starting it one time I could actually rev the engine and everything worked like it should but then it died and hasn't done it since. ANyone have any ideas? The fact that it idles and runs with the tb is very promising but I just have to figure this out so I can get it out and see how it performs.

Things I'm thinking:

Map sensor: The one i'm using came with the manifold and I'm not 100% sure if it was good to begin with so that may be the culprit.

Vacume leak: While I don't see anywhere that would pose a bad enough leak to make the car act up like this you never know.

Fuel setup: When I got to start it black smoke shoots out the manifold(right now the exhaust is just a manifold with open downpipe), The fuel system is all stock except the old style rail with fpr on it that was disabled already so I don't see how I could be getting too much fuel to run rich as if anything with the bigger tb and manifold I should be lean.


Those are the only things I can think of right now. Any ideas or insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Slippi84]

Ok well good news is I figured out what the problem is. I went home and for shits and giggles sprayed some gum cutter in the tb and then tries to start her up and bam started right up and would rev like it was stock. So in a nut shell I have a leak once I realised that I kicked my self in the ass. Def never put a gasket between the tb and the manifold. So I overnighted it from the dealer which didn't cost me anything because I sell them parts and we'll see what happens after I put that bad boy on and I check my other vaccume hook ups too.

 

[skateloser2003]

i looked up everywhere but i cant seem to find if i can use a Q45 throttle body with my stock intake manifold and what year does the throttle body have to be from thanks.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Looks good, you should find a grommet for the trunk though around the cable you have running into it.