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Infiniti Q45 Throttle Body [Merged 4-8]

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SilverJester

20+ Year Contributor
95
1
Aug 31, 2002
first off, I am posting in this forum because this is where I found part of my answer...but please move if it's in the wrong place.


I have a 2g which means I have 4 wires going to the TPS. the q45 tps has one pig tail w/ 3 wires and a short harnes w/ 3 wires. So far what I've been able to find is the the short harness is for the actual TPS and the pigtail is for the "idle validation circuit". I'm not sure what that means but I found it on some supra forums. I know that the difference between the 1g and 2g tps is that the the 4th wire (which ells the ecu if the throttle is closed) is seperate on a 1g. Could this be the same thing as "idle validation"?

So far this is the info I have come across as far as wired and what they are for:

q45 tps harness (not the pigtail):
-Red is the 5 volt input wire
-White is the TPS signal wire
-Black is the sensor return wire

2g tps harness:
1 - Green/Yellow (+5v Sensor Power)
2 - Brown/Red (TPS output voltage)
3 - Yellow/Red (IPS switch)
4 - Black (Ground)

Ok so I'm still a little confused on what wires to connect so if anyone has experience or more info t add I would appreciate it.
 
Yeah def gonna have to ####y foot it for a little but it will be worth it. Besides to not tempt myself I won't buy the nitrous setup till later on down the line when everything clutch included is broken in and I have a good tune without nitrous. Spark and advance should be easy I'm just gonna get msd coil and wires with msd-dis 2 with and retard timing a little. I will be going with a zex kit as I had one on my old supra and loved it. No need to worry about changing the tune for spraying it injects the right amount of nitrous for you. I had a wideband hooked up to the supra and the a/f ratio barely changed at all while spraying and that was a 125 shot.
 
edit: By the way I have everything but a clutch. DO you guys think a stage 3 will cut it or something like a stage 4 or stage 3+ will be needed?

That depends on the manufacturer. Give us the Brand of clutch you would like to use and we can go from there.
 
That depends on the manufacturer. Give us the Brand of clutch you would like to use and we can go from there.

Sorry that was a brand. I left out the SPEC in fron of the stage 3 that would have made it make more sense even though they're the only ones I know that do the stage 3 and stage 3+ thing.

how do you like the OBX manifod im thinking about getting one for my daily driver

I don't knwo yet I haven't run it LOL. Like you my build has taken longer then exspected but my case is mostly cause I keep buying shit. This started as a way to show stock like guys how the manifold would perform with I/H/E with the mods we talked about in the beginning which I have had done already. But then I got my hands on a ported and polished built head and now a fully built bottom end( well crank is new and strengthend the rest is forged and new) so now I'm uping the time table on my 11 sec (that's my goal) NA Nitrous setup. SO while I will have numbers and plenty of video and data I don't knwo if it's really compareable to stock anymore as my car will be 100% diffrent now,
 
I'm kinda liking it, for the price. You may want to check this out;
:
2GNT.com - OBX_Intake_Install

MB

VERY VERY interesting so you did see good gains from using the OBX mai. I also want to use a 60mm MP TB on my daily. Glad to see a good write up on the Manifold GOOD WORK:thumb

I don't knwo yet I haven't run it LOL. Like you my build has taken longer then exspected but my case is mostly cause I keep buying shit. This started as a way to show stock like guys how the manifold would perform with I/H/E with the mods we talked about in the beginning which I have had done already. But then I got my hands on a ported and polished built head and now a fully built bottom end( well crank is new and strengthend the rest is forged and new) so now I'm uping the time table on my 11 sec (that's my goal) NA Nitrous setup. SO while I will have numbers and plenty of video and data I don't knwo if it's really compareable to stock anymore as my car will be 100% diffrent now,

I have the same stor y i just keeped buying stuff for the car NOW look were im at:cry:
I think im gonna go for it and get one.
as soon as i get my daily driver running ill post some pics about it
 
VERY VERY interesting so you did see good gains from using the OBX mai. I also want to use a 60mm MP TB on my daily. Glad to see a good write up on the Manifold GOOD WORK:thumb
Appreciate the kind words, Zero. Yeah, for the cost, I am defintiely liking this piece. And this is from someone who went into the test with the idea that he didn't like the intake.

I have the same stor y i just keeped buying stuff for the car NOW look were im at:cry:
I think im gonna go for it and get one.
as soon as i get my daily driver running ill post some pics about it

Just to help confuse your decision; this is the next intake that I have to test (as soon as I get one more part made so that I can make a fair comparison);

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420...y-finished-my-first-420a-intake-manifold.html

Just in case you missed the post ;)

MB
 
Yeah as much as I want my manifold to work out and I know it will with my new setup Mike's manifold is a work of art. I did my write up and my project to show people that with a minimum amount of money and a little vision you can have big dollar performance just have to know what you need vs what looks good. I have a feeling mike's manifold will be a fair yet descent amount of money the obx route will be cheaper in most cases but as is obvious you won't have that more one off look and performance wise it's yet to be seen how his vs mine will work out but I would bet his will be better down low and up top they will be about the same.
 
im of the opinion that his will do better down low and mine will do better up top........... just because u have a huge t-body slippi doesnt mean its going to flow more up top. ;)



AMM
 
Agreed which is why I said they'll be about the same ;) Come on mike you reading these post late at night LOL j/k

Edit: And your right about the tb but even if I did say mine would do better up top ot would be more because the plenum is a little bigger than yours but I still don't think there will be a big diffrence up top if any. In a nut shell if you have the money go mike's route unless your car is a show car too then the obx may seem more apealing to you but if I had the money and Mike would have had hjis out I would have bought it. BUt I have to say that q45 is beast in my engine bay : )
 
i hope you dont think that im trying to say mine is better than yours and that im trying to get pepole to buy mine over modifying theirs like yours, cause that is not the intention what so ever. i was throwing in my opinion of what i think the out come would be if these 2 dynoed back to back. i know u didnt say anything like that but in case u were thinking it please done.......... i would hate for somebody to come in my thread and try and sell there stuff so therefore i would never do it............ unless they were asking for different options on where to get a ported head or intake or something that i make/do.


AMM
 
I got ya man. I"m pretty blunt though especially on here. If I think something I say it but to be honest I hope yours does better. I hope mine does exactly what I want but I hope yours does better. I would rather see you do well and make money and give back to the dsm community than OBX who I don't know from a whole in the ground.

Does anyone know which wires are which on the 2gnt tps plug? There are only three wires I just need to know which one is the ground, power and signal wire so I can finish this setup.
 
Thanks I still have to put the all the ignition stuff on like the MSD dis 2 coil and new wires but I just want to get it started with the stuff that worked before then change it. I"m putting a 1 gallon fuel cell for the nitrous where the battery used to be so it should fill the space very nicely.
 
Looks good. I would put that filter down by the front headlight for air ducting reasons but suite yourself.

So, couple questions..

1) Did you have any trouble getting the TB cable to reach the TB?
2) Do you have an idle?
3) Any negative side effects of idle surge or rough idle while driving with that TB?
4) How did you wire up the TPS?
5) What size is the TB? 80mm?
6) Notice any power gains? If so, up top, down low, in the middle, etc..?

I'd really like to do something like this myself. I don't think I'd use the OBX, I've got a custom one in the making, so if you've had good results with the TB, I may have to do the same.
 
now that its finished i would also like to know where the gain to this is. i would kinda think it is a little overkill but but i bet it helped out alot top end
 
not to rain on your parade (kind seems like i do that alot) but your gonna want to put an intake pipe ("aka ram tube") between the filter and manifold because your gonna lose some low end the way its set up right now.


mike
 
This is not the 100% finished product. The car is still not running even though it looks done. I have to figure out why it won't start I think it's the knock sensor. The wire broke and I was just gonna be like #### it and fix it later but Paul said you need it hooked up to start the car I didn't see why but I think he may be right. There will def be a intake setup but it will not be cold air it will be a short pipe section and it will have a heat shield to block the rest of the engine bay from it. I'm doing that because a fuel cell is going where the battery was for the nitrous fuel supply. I am gonna be running around with all that info for you guys very shorty. Wiring wise I can tell you was a breeze. It's only three wires and the idle is controlled by screw not by motor but we will have to see how that works out with the stock computer and what not. For right now I just want to get her started. It's got spark and fuel and it's shooting fire so I take it it's got enough compression that it should be starting but still no doe.

Where is the stock fpr? It says it's by the firewall but I followed the fuel feed line and it doesn't lead to anything in the engine bay just a line that looks like it goes down underneath the car?? I believe that because I have two fpr on on the rail with a vaccume line going to it from the tb and one in the stock location wherever that is without a vaccume that I may have a problem fuel wise.
 
Where at by the tank you mean underneath the car or actually in the car by the tank? Because I have most of the interior out already and didn't see anything in the car so you must mean underneath. The car is backfiring and shooting fire out the header( I don't have the pipe between the header and cat hooked up ) which makes me think that theres too much fuel from the two fpr's
 
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