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Im scared to post this... thats sad.

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Hesh724

10+ Year Contributor
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Feb 7, 2009
Hopewell, Pennsylvania
ok before all 400 of you tell me what a peice of shit it is, just know i dont care. bad comments and will be ignored ;). but before i saw ALL OVER the internet that narrow band guages are useless i supidly bought one. ok so just get it out of your system and tell me to throw it away to your mom cause she may care more! well any way if anyone wont be a Di&$ about it i JUST NEED TO KNOW what would cause a narrowband guage to not ever move off rich? again i am not tuning yet and i already bought it and yes i want a light show so if anyone has an idea as to why it wont do anything please by all means put in your 2Cents but if your just goin to say throw it away go screw your self just so you know. :thumb:
 
Did you tap into the correct wires as it's ran off of voltage to bounce the led back and forth?
 
Because its a narrowband :)
If you obviously knew it was a peice soo idk why you bought one?
and what does "mover off rich" mean
 
Because its a narrowband :)
If you obviously knew it was a peice soo idk why you bought one?
and what does "mover off rich" mean

It mean's the light will be all the way to the rich side of the spectrum and I'm assuming it's maxed out not moving at all.
 
i said i am not tuning and i bought it before i knew!!! and screw my gramer you suck.

ya its maxed out all the time rich. as far as i know i found a readout of what position in the plug and functions of the wires for the o2 sensor it said pin 4 for the ecu is pin 1 on the plug which as far as i can tell it is the white wire? :). but ya once i get ready for another chip and injectors i will def get a real wideband but i didnt know there were two types when i bought it :(. oh and just to help maybe i have the other wires in correctly all the lights turn on when they should now its just the green i read is supposed to go to signal wire for o2 and the artists rendering made it look like white is what i need which i used ??
 
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First of all you're kind of being a dick but I'm going to try and help you anyway as long as you don't jump down my throat about it. I almost skipped this thread because of your attitude and it wont get you very far in the future.

So your narrowband o2 sensor gauge is reading rich. To understand why lets understand the basics of narrowband sensors and gauges. Basically the narrowband o2 sensor is a binary switch with a non-linear output. There is a voltage crossover point which has a very small section that is very accurate and this section is stoichiometric or 14.7:1 on a gas scale. This is also the part of your narrowband gauge that suggests good operating condition. The o2 sensor should never actually stay exactly at that range though. Simply put the ecu sees the narrowband o2 sensor as a switch which tells the ecu if it should pull fuel or add it, there is no situation where the ecu sees the output from the o2 sensor and does nothing therefore the car's AFR will bounce back and forth across stoich in closed loop over a fairly narrow range usually around 14.4:1-15.0:1, cars that run more poorly will have a wider range.

Now we see that your gauge reads rich all the time. This tells us something but not very much, what we know is that your o2 sensor does not ever read that the car is crossing stoich. So why doesn't it ever read that? A few possibilities the first being that the gauge is hooked up wrong, the second that for some reason your car is never reaching the operating conditions to achieve closed loop operation, this is usually a result of a bad coolant temperature sensor, the last common reason is that your o2 sensor is dead. If this is the case it wont cycle across that stoich area that you want.

So lets get to diagnosis. How is your gas mileage on the highway? Does it suck? If so then your gauge is probably fine and we need to find the solution elsewhere. Do you have access to a logger? If so warm the car up and then check the coolant temp according to the logger. Be aware that the sending unit for your gauge and for your computer are different so your gauge can work and your CTS can still be bad. So lets assume that your CTS checks out and your temp according to the computer is around 200* when warmed up. Now we need to check your o2 sensor. That same logger will read o2 voltage, with the car a bit warm at least you'll see the o2 voltage fluctuating across a small range, if it doesn't fluctuate then it is bad.

So your getting bad gas mileage and you don't have a logger? Well that makes things harder but we can still guess. Does your car start hard? If so start by replacing the CTS, if it doesn't start hard change the o2 sensor first. If your car has over 100k miles and you've never changed either then change them both just because you should. The CTS wont matter as much but the o2 sensor will go bad over time and your gas mileage will suffer long before the sensor completely gives out.

I thought I might add that if you don't have a logger you also may be able to go to autozone or advance auto or some place like that. The computers that they use for scanning codes are often marginally more advanced than basic code readers and can usually at least show live data over OBDII even if they can't do anything else.
 
Ummm...Not to bee an *ss but you have been active on this site since Feb of last year and you still didnt know there were narrow bands and wide bands??..... seems a little weird.

Back on topic though, I would check the vacuum line running to your stock fpr. I know that I am going to bashed for saying that because it runs from your intake manifold but its a good place to start. Simple things are usually the cause for quite a few problems.

Hope all turns out well
/Sean
 
i have no idea what a vacume line would have to do with an o2 sensor wire??? and i am a dick cause i have been reading for like a week on just what wire is what cause i sure as hell didnt want to ask cause all u d heads and thats why i dont know what is what yet cause i hate asking on these forums cause the 50% of you are dumb d heads LOL. so ya i dont mean every one just every one i have seen reply to this same question on other forums but there are alot of good, smart gear heads on here too though i dont mean them! .:hellyeah:
 
Calling everyone a D head is not going to convince them to talk to you about your problem. I'm amazed by your detailed replies doing so. You have obviously very intelligent people trying to help you and you are giving them crap. I posted a question and have barely gotten anyone's input about it. I've had to bump for days and have less responses than you. It makes me wonder sometimes.
 
MMMM i see a end to this thread. IF you ask us first of all is why are you using it? No one i know, what answer did you expect.?
 
like i said how many people do you think would have just said "throw it away" its a peice of crap so i preemptively let people know i am looking for answers not opinions LOL. sorry i dont have any patience any more.
 
In real life i am super layed back but after readingall the replies to other people on other sites and this one like pissed me off like why the ### cant some one just give a straight answer any more. but im over it now and i dont know anything cause my first dsm was a eclipse gs why would i need to know anythign about turbo engines for that thing?
 
First off, you could have come across less aggressive in your post and got a better reaction, rather than being a douche!!!!

I wasn't going to reply, but since your being an A$$, i had to get it off my chest. The search function works very well, if you use it. There is also the VFAQ which has a pinout and many other online resources to find wiring diagrams. Stop being lazy!!! There are plenty of knowledgable people here, who are more than willing to help if people actually put in effort to find the answer themselves first. Hell i would have posted the diagram from Alldata if you asked nicely, but in your words, you can go "F" urself.

Rant over!!!

Ok, I suppose i'll offer a little something. 3 possible problems.

1. Your guage is junk!

2. You tapped the wrong wire

3. Your front O2 sensor is shot
 
B.95 gxs you proved my point by not helping one bit like i said i have been looking. i know my gauge is junk and i asked if my o2 sensor being shot would give cel cause i dont have any cel . obviosly i think i tapped wrong wire. and i already said i will check o2 sensor like way up thread "rant over" im not checking this thread any more so just kill it. thanks to those of you for the info.
 
I don't know why I'm still here but I started being a part of this thread I may as well finish.

An o2 sensor will not always throw a check engine light. As it goes bad the voltage will drop off and the car will continue to richen up. Generally the car tests for a circuit and input from the o2 sensor, later cars like evos also check for an o2 sensor heater circuit. If these are fine then generally you wont get a CEL until the o2 sensor asks your car for a fuel trim of greater than +/- about 20%.

Follow the diagnosis steps in my first post and if you don't know when your o2 sensor was last changed then I suggest you do it now anyway. They are generally $60 and an old one may be costing you 2-5mpg. On my Jeep changing my o2 sensor netted my 1.5mpg without any indication that it was failing, and considering the Jeep was only getting 14mpg that is more than a 10% difference in fuel economy.
 
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