2G ignition, wiring, CAS question. aragh help

[yoshimitsuspeed]

So we got my 95 GSX running finally the other day but now it won't start. It turns out cylinders 1 and 4 aren't getting spark. My first thought is the CAS since I remember hearing if it goes out you loose two cylinders but every one told me "no it can't be your CAS so check every thing else" well it's not my coil pac, I switched wires and the problem went to the other side. Finally I after tearing apart half the wiring harness I get my friends OBD scanner and guess which code pops up. CAS

When we put the motor in I busted the CAS so we got one that was cut in half. We took the conector and soldered it to the new / used CAS. It ran great for a while and I started it probably four times. The fifth or so it sputterd and wouldn't start again. I took off the timing belt cover and it looks like the CAS trigger plate was rubbing the CAS. Could this have killed the CAS or are there other places I can look before pulling the cam gear? I am out of ideas and really don't want to redo the timing, especially if there are other possibilities.

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I fingerd out how to get the sensor off without taking the timing belt and cam gear off so never mind hopefully a new one does the trick.

 

[jay_rod24]

I fingerd out how to get the sensor off without taking the timing belt and cam gear off so never mind hopefully a new one does the trick.

Hey can u tell me how u got the CAS off w/o removing the belt and cam gear? I am going to have to put one on mine in a day or two and I was wondering about how I could go about doing that without having to pull everything off. BTW - Is ur car a 2g?

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Yes it's a 2GA, the only gen to put it behind the cam gear.

You need to remove your timing belt side motor mount (make sure to support the motor), remove the top and middle timing belt cover. Align the the timing marks on the cams to TDC.
The alignment dowls on the cam gears should be at 12:00. Put a wrench on the front cam gear nut to keep the motor from spinning and one on the rear bolt to loosen the bolt. take the bolt out about 5/16" (keep a close eye on the dowel pin at the top, if this pin comes out the cam will spin out of time and you wil have to figure out how to get it back. Plus at TDC a valve could smack a pistion. ) Once you pull the cam gear out that small bit you should be able to pivit the cam gear back so the bottom gets farther from the CAS and the top stays snug back on the dowl. You will need a very short wrench to remove the bolts and it will take a bit of patients getting them off. I found it small beans compared doing a timing job. First remove the bolt on the bracket that holds the wire in place, next loosen both bolts and then remove the forward one first (this whole time you will deed to keep tension on the cam gear to keep it on the dowl. As you loosen the bolts you may need to loosen the cam gear bolt a little more and pry the gear back a little more, pull it out absolutly little as possible and don't drop anything down into the timing belt or you will have a bit more work for yourself.) Once the bolt it completely unthreaded you can swivle the sensor down enough to pull the bolt out of the sensor. Next remove the back bolt and pull the sensor out. Make sure not to bend the trigger plates or they could hit your new sensor and kill it.
That's removal, I haven't put it back in but it looks pretty self explainitory from here.

When you are done spin the motor around by hand a few times and make sure the plate isn't rubbing the sensor.

I am not a professional and I have only done this once so use it at your own discression

 

[Lof8]

any luck with this? I'm having a very similar problem on a 1g (only spark to 2 cylinders). I've gone through plugs, wires, coils and a new (used) CAS. I'm stuck. I'm hoping maybe the rev limiter on my keydiver chip is malfunctioning.

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Yeah it was the CAS. After replacing it it ran great.
Is yours throwing a code? If so get it scanned and see what it says. Which two cylinders aren't firing? 1 & 4?

 

[Lof8]

yeah, its throwing a coil code but its got two new coils that test out well. its the 2 & 3 cylinders that intermittently dont get spark. Its so strange because sometimes she'll run great on all 4 cylinders and all of a sudden it'll start limping again on 2. I may try another CAS, but the problem hasnt really changed since I put in the first new (used) one.

 

[jay_rod24]

Yep...mine was the CAS too. UGH!!!!! Oh well, I am up and running again on my freshly rebuilt motor!

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

On my 2G it goes from the coil pack to a power transistor, I don't know if the 1G is exactly the same but that may also be another potential culprit.
It could also be in the wiring. I had almost the exact same problem you are having only it was with my injectors. Sometimes they would work fine, sometimes they would cut out. It turned out a couple of my injector wires had rubbed through and were intermittantly shorting out. I would start at your coil pack and chase the wires back looking for any cuts, melts, or damage both in the plastic corigated covering and the individual wires. If you have a simalar power transistor those wires should lead you straight to it. If all the wires look good maybe try swapping the transistor with a good one. Maybe also find another coil pack that you know works just to eliminate the slight possibility something is wrong with the new one. Chase the wires from the transitor as far back as you can looking for any damage, also by moving the wires around you may unshort it making it better or short it making it worse, if messing with the wires makes a difference I would almost guarentee it's a short or bad conection (that reminds me, check all the conections to make sure their not coroded or loose. Get some eletric contact cleaner and or die electric grease which will ensure your conections). If it's none of those it's over my head.