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Ignition Control Unit testing

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as stupid as this sounds, id go the simple route. if you have one thats in question, swap out with a friend that has a one off a known running car to see if thats yourr problem. unless your testing for power output and general info, then id say get your hands on a super nice FLUKE brand multi-meter. with the correct user know-how, those suckers can do anything
 
Is just that all my friends have 2g dsm and none of them have parts for the 1g. And I need a way to test the Ignition Control Unit before I go spent 200 dollars on a new one or try and gues if the one I find in the junkyard works or not.:thumb:
 
1st gen igniter, im like %90 certain i have one sittin somewhere in a plastic tub of old saved parts. if i do indeed have it, its yours man, i never save broke or busted parts as im not that big a pack-rat. if i come up with igniter/transister its yours. shouldnt cost $hit to mail it either. promise, if i find it, ill mail it to ya for free. names tristen, can txt me later if you want 208 640 4281 id jam outside and look right now but all that crap is out in my shop and its one in the morning and im just sittin on the couch chillaxin with the laptop on and watchin hardcore pawn (i love this show more than the original las vegas one)
 
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It doesn't matter what type of 1.5V battery is used so long as it is 1.5V: Standard Battery Size Chart.

Don't know how to make it any more clear than this. When the dashed line is in place, the light should turn on. Without it, the light should be off. The only thing to change for cylinders 2 and 3 are the wires going to pin 1 and pin 2 which should go to pins 6 and 5, respectively.
 

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