Idle problems after replacing head gasket

[MMRacing]

I recently replace the head gasket seal with a metallic one from COMETIC. Also, replace, timing belt, tensioner, cam seals, intake seal and install an exhaust header w/ seal from pacesetter. After bolting in all parts, performing a timing position marks check and ensuring all vacuum hoses were connected and tighten I gave the car start...... and the following happened:

Engine rev's up to 4000 RPM then it stalls.... To keep the engine running I press the accelerator, once the engine is warm enough it barely stays on idling at 300 rpm until stalls again.....The exhaust gases are colorless but give a strong rich mixture smell.

Actions already taken (2nd time): ensure there are no vacuum leaks, perform a compression test (results were 160, 160, 165, 165), and inspect timing marks to ensure all are correct.

I appreciate any suggestions you may have to resolve the problem.

 

[theSicKness]

I would do a boost leak check. Check to make sure your intake mani or Tb are not leaking.


Jesse

If you do not know how to make one here is a good write up
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209898
Just remove your intake clamp it on the inlet of your turbo and pressureize the system i personally never go over 20 PSI just check your boost gauge.. a leak that big you should be pretty easy to spot.

 

[MMRacing]

Thanks, I will build the tool and test the intake system for leaks.

Appreciate if any one can confirm the correct way of positioning the CAS on a 1997 4G63, I'm a bit confuse with the comments in other threads. The spinning piece of the sensor has a yellow dot, those the dot has to be align with the sensor at TDC?

 

[95talon_in_ma]

If you hold the gas so it revs at 1000 rpm, is it still popping and missing?

If your butterfly was really caked up with carbon and you cleaned it up, you could just have to mess with the idle screw and the biss.
But if it's still poing and missing at 1000rpm, it's probably something else.

I would double check you spark plug wires too. Easy to cross them up.

 

[theSicKness]

Correct. look at your cas line the spinner* for lack of a better term up with the Dot. Make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC.


Jesse

 

[MMRacing]

Thanks for your feedback.

Spark plug wires are properly connected (double check with a Chilton's book).
Vehicle still misfires at 1000 rpm, it does not at 4000 rpm plus.

In regards to the CAS, you are saying that the yellow dot on the spinner has to be align with the sensor with the #1 piston at TDC.

 

[theSicKness]

Correct.

 

[MMRacing]

Thanks. Will make the boost leak test as well as make sure the CAS is correct and advise the results.

 

[dvbrien]

What did you come up with in this? These threads are fairly usless without the solution to your problem... Just wondering if you got it fixed.