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Jiggalude

15+ Year Contributor
284
0
May 14, 2005
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Ok so I did do some searching and had most of the questions answered. anywhere between 20-25 psi is what people say. 660 cc injectors with the 190lph fuel pump. I have an aftermarket boost gauge and also an AEM UEGO wideband. Is this enough to run that psi safely or would I also need an AFC? I forgot to mention that I have a MAFT translator.
 
I'm going to upgrade my car a little bit here. I'm going to keep the 14b turbo but I have a nice 3 inch turbo back exhaust no cat or muffler. I've got a MBC on the car already and am running 15 lbs. I know that is pretty much it for the stock fuel system. I don't want to put in a 255lph pump because I don't want to do the AFPR, although I already have 255 from a 3kgt turbo project I was doing. If I went with a 190lph pump what size injectors would be a good match? Also, if I did use the 250lph, what injectors would you recommend with that? Also, on both setups, what is the most PSI I can run on the stock 14b?

Bro why don't you do some searching. These questions have been answered numerous times in the past 15 years.
 
search function my friend. I know of at least 20 threads pertaining to all of your questions
 
To give you an answer that isnt "search" If you really wanted to do it right the first time then the next "mods" you should do are a boost gauge (you might have that one) a wideband a/f gauge, a logger of some sort, or a tuner with a logger aka dsmlnk. Then start small like an upgraded SMIC or 2g maf and metal intake hose etc. Then worry about all that stuff you mentioned.
 
is dsmlink really necessary with the stock turbo and only the slight fuel upgrades? I'm not going for hardcore stuff yet. I do have all the other stuff but the logger and dsmlink.
 
is dsmlink really necessary with the stock turbo and only the slight fuel upgrades? I'm not going for hardcore stuff yet. I do have all the other stuff but the logger and dsmlink.

Negative. I have more mods than that and I dont have dsmlink:thumb:
 
would 660's be the right size to go for and would you use a 250 or 190lph pump:?
 
Ok so if I go with either what fuel pump would you recommend ? Like I said I have a MAFT would I also need an SAFC?

Well the 190lph is a lot cheaper than a regulator, and I can pick up some 550's or 660's used for right around 125-150 so I'm going to do that. But what about the SAFC, is that needed even with the MAFT?
 
well, no one brought it up but you can't go with bbigger injectors and not have at least an AFC to use in order to compensate for the injector change at variouse RPm's and loads. otherwise you'll just run dead rich everywhere, plus what an AFC is used for besides tuning is to eliminate fuel cut when pushing more ait... you add bigger injectors and the AFC gets tuned into the negative range fooling the ECu into thinking there's less air coming in, hence you don't hit fuel cut as soon.

and for the cost difference, just get the 255....

but the main thing wrong with this picture is that you will not hold that kinda bnoost on that turbo, you will hit it but the boost will fall off by redline and that means you're pushing the turbo past it's limits and that means it's heating up the air so badly that you'll most likely be fighting a knock sensor constantly to keep enough timing to use the extra boost

some people have held that much boost on a 14b, butj i've never had one that could hold it to redline, usually they seem to fall off to about 21-22psi, but if you're running a bone stock setup it may hold just because of the restrictive stock components
 
The MAFT can be set to compensate for 660 injectors, but the adjustments are a little coarse. A SAFC can give you extra fine tuning control, but it's not absolutely needed.

660's are a good match for the 190lph pump since the pump and injectors reach their max at the same power level, which is around 19- 22 psi on pump gas. You'll have trouble getting much over 16psi with stock IC and stock timing control unless you use meth injection.
 
The MAFT can be set to compensate for 660 injectors, but the adjustments are a little coarse. A SAFC can give you extra fine tuning control, but it's not absolutely needed.

660's are a good match for the 190lph pump since the pump and injectors reach their max at the same power level, which is around 19- 22 psi on pump gas. You'll have trouble getting much over 16psi with stock IC and stock timing control unless you use meth injection.


So I would need at least an AFC to control the timing if I want to run more than 16 psi?

OH and I've already got the 255lph pump from my turbo project for my stealth, so that's not a problem. I just don't want it to overrun the 550's or 660's im going to get. I wasn't ready to invest in the AFPR if I could just pick up the 190lph for half the cost of the regulator ya know.
 
An AFC does not adjust timing (or i shuold say does not let YOU adjust timing) A common problem on pump gas with an AFC is that when you go too large with injectors and the ECU thinks it's getting so little air from the negative adjustment that it gives the engine more timing than what can be "safe" on pump gas which can cause either detonation and blown HG's, or can just keep the knock sensor going nuts and making the timing worse than it would have been to start with.

Now...last time i was regularly on here some one was experimenting with using too large an injector on purpose and running e85 so that the bumped timing was exactly what they needed and it was a cheap way to a go fast recipe.

Now i'm not saying this to be rude but it sounds as if you're not too well informed about the the upgrades you plan on using here soon, and i suggest that you do a LOT of searching and reading (search for the info by both abreviations and spelling it correctly and using words in different combos to exapnd your results)

because the last thing you want to do is start upgrading and making changes to your fueling without fully understanding what's going on when you make changes, otherwise it would be better to pay some one to do this for you and leave the tune how they set it up. unless you want to become good at replacing engine parts the hard way * i consider myself pretty knowledgeable about my car and what i'm doing to it and changes i am making, BUT you can still find me reading for hours on end some days from search results on here to see what something has done for many different people over a longer span of time than what i will get in a few replies to a post (especially when it's topics that have been covered a thousand times because alot of OG members get so sick of answering these same questions over and over that they just skip[ your postaltogether)
 
Like turboglenn said, your timing will be advanced a little due to the way MAFT compensation works.
The simple solution is to grab your timing light and turn the CAS back by 2 or 3 degrees.
 
You can definitely use an AFC to tune 550's prob even 660's, use the 255 pump your not going to "overrun the injectors", and you will want to buy and aftermarket FPR b/c you will prob run rich even with the AFC if you don't get an FPR...
 
however, investing in DSMlink now will result in less wasteful expenditures between now and when you finally go with it. Why spend $300 on an AFC / Logger setup when you can spend another couple hundred bucks and have something that's 500x more powerful and tunable.

Hell, go with the entry level link (V3 lite, the one with basic fuel and timing maps, like v1 and v2 were). It's cheaper, and it will still be a lot better than an AFC. It's only $50 more than you'd spend on a new AFC/Logger combo.

The increased power you can gain from timing control far outweighs basic fuel piggyback trickery. Not to mention, you gain a lot more drivability with being able to dial in your injectors properly. No idle issues.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/index.php?cPath=25&osCsid=umnd4e4gong3ojus149u2bgq15
 
Yea I'm considering the DSMlink lite. It doesn't make sense to get an AFC and a logger when I can get something like you said better, that has the same features for near the same cost.
 
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