The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

I hit like 15 psi now car runs wrong

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

canonize-ryda

10+ Year Contributor
264
0
Apr 8, 2011
Gillette, Wyoming
Today i wasnt catching any boost. So i checked my hardware and had some loose bolts. Tighten them up and went to hit the gas to see if it was boosting again and started boosting normally. I hit some torque steer and let off the gas after that.

So i was cruising at maybe 35 and i pass a truck to hear my car bogging out. So i let the gas off and got on it slightly to notice it kinda spitting and i can smell gas. I checked and have no leaks and it almost acts like it out of gas but it has a half tank. I have new fuel filter and lines. Fuel pump is old and i still have yet in to install my 255lph. As it sits now it starts right up and then dies instantly.

Now i know these cars hit fuelcut at 15 but i have been in the 20s before and never experienced anything like fuelcut. Is this just fuelcut? Maybe tightening the bolts made it to where i could build more boost than before. I could tell it was leaking exhuast where my mani bolt to my turbo. How long does fuelcut last and how can i get rid of it. I thought just turning the car off and back on would work.
 
Fresh rebuilt,K&n filter, mbc set around 14-15, hard intake pipe, no exhaust sep atmo dump o2 housing, evo3 16g, 450cc injectors still, afpr, coil on plugs, aluminum radiator, fmic with 2.5 inch pipe with PR bov. No tuning or logger or anything except boost, water temp, oil pressure gauges. I have heard i can run up to 15 with my stock pump. I have a 255lph and rewire i need to install but winter hit.

P.s. Sick license plate man.
 
Good call. Ill go check my fmic set up. It has happened 2 times already LOL i feel dumb. Thanks tsikid!

Yep. Same pipe that always pops off. The one right before the intercooler. Thanks time to tclamp that sucker.
 
The bov is doing better than my 1g bov was. Maybe it was bad LOL. Also great idea. I have some weak non silicone couplers. And some weak clamps. Also that one pipe was cut out of a full piece to make it fit so it has no lip. But hells yea ill try some spray. Lol low boost. Id hate to up it to 22 when i drop in my new pump. Lol be popping and locking after that.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if your hitting fuel cut, I started hitting fuel cut around the same psi on a 16g. Also, if your on the stock 1G MAS remove the lower honeycombs and it will raise the fuel cut up a little higher(do this at your own risk, I did it with no ill effects).
 
I'd only pull the honeycombs if you have a way to log the car, which is not in your mod list.
 
Well i pulled the lower honeycomb back 6 months when i built the car. Loggers are next. I am only raising boost from my 14 to around 16 when i install my 255lph. Then i will get 560cc injectors and a logger. Then ill get my egr gauge and my wideband afr gauge. I actually am installing a 3 inch gm maf soon with translator so my 1g mas problem will be fixed. Then find a used safc and that should do me just fine.
 
You dont need both SAFC and MAFT, THOUGH a MAFT can be used on your current setup, its really only good for venting to atmosphere and/or if you plan on going over 400ish-HP, or if you use injectors larger than 650 where it then goes out of the SAFC tuning range, MAFT's are a PITA to tune also. Stick with a one or the other, or go DSMLINK!
 
You're not considering the fact that the 1g MAF will only count so high. ;) Beyond that, I agree.

Frankly, a 2g MAF (based on projected mods in his post) would suffice, though he can't make awesome whistle noises with a vented BOV.
 
I havent ran into problems yet. I have a maft sitting around and yea im swapping to a t3 setup soon. I have a completely built 6 bolt going in and i am shooting for 500. I might need 650cc but i want to stay as small as i can using 91 pump gas. Lol modding backwards? Look at your dsmtuners front page. Step by step and the last steps are loggers and all that. I have everything but the Tuning devices. I prob just skip all this extra bs and run a safc till i get that rare 90 eprom i need. That guy costs as much as dsmlink almost LOL.
 
You won't hit 500 on 91 with 650s. Probably a pipe dream looking for 400.

T3 doesn't mean anything, neither does "built".

Changing timing/fuel/airflow is asinine without a logger. I'll see what I can do about rearranging that page.
 
Yea to be honest im very unknown to the tuning aspect of any car. Built just means like eagle rods manly pistons and so on just to hold up for higher hp. The t3 actually is of unknown trim and size as its in a project iam buying in the next month. I am hoping with 560s, my evo3 16g, and possibly a 2g maf ican acheive a possible 350-400 at the engine. I have been told that with the extra air the 16g pushes that the 2g maf will help get it in there. Also have been told the bigger injectors will equalize the bigger maf and turbo and ishould be fine. I have all supporting mods except the loggers and gauges to make enough hp dont I?
 
Well i actually went down the list. Until i found a good deal on my turbo. Other than that logging is near the end of the list. My bad dsmtuners steered me wrong. I was just following the mod list for stage 1 and decided to get into stage 2.
 
I went over the upgrade paths and compared it against your mod list. The blame lies with you. The very first "Stage 2" is a logger. You've installed useless mods like COP before that.

I await your apology for an inability to search, read, or take responsibility for bad modding practices. :)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top