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I finally got my first DSM-some questions and recommendations? boost leak?

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91rtstealth

10+ Year Contributor
83
0
Mar 24, 2012
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Hello everyone. I finally got myself a DSM car. I've always wanted one. I currently have two Dodge Stealths, however I am selling one of them and replacing it with this 96 Talon TSI AWD that I just picked up.

interesting story:
I got this for 1900!!! 124k on it. And it runs great, looks good, clean inside etc. Needs a tiny bit of body work, possibly valve seals, and I hear some clunking underneath so either struts or some bushings perhaps. My buddy actually bought it for $420 (basically scrap value) from a guy who didn't know what he had. It was really dirty and didn't run. He got it home and found out that all four spark plugs were shot. He did a compression test and everything was good, got new plugs, and it fired right up. He also replaced the timing belt, water pump, rebuilt the turbo, among some other things....and then sold it to me for 1900. I couldn't pass it up. Now all I need is a Starion and I'll be complete. haha.

so I want to get this thing is fairly good working order. It's basically a toy but I do want to drive it quite it a bit. So, where should I start? I looked at the dsm tuner guide. I want to do a boost leak check but this is my first Turbo car, so this is all new to me. It runs pretty strong, but the power seems spikey. I feel like it may be leaking a little boost. Is there any way I can build (or purchase) something I can use with a standard shrader valve on it? I don't have an air compressor, so I'd like to use a bike tire pump or something to build up some pressure and then spray soapy water around to locate bubbles. Can anyone help me with this? Once again, I'm totally new to all of this so I wouldn't know which hoses to put this "adaptor" on to anyways, etc.

any other things I should look into? I"m going to order a boost gauge in the near future so I can keep an eye on that. I'm basically just trying to get this car safely running so I can put a manual boost controller on it and run 15-16 psi and be happy with that for a while. I want the car to be reliable/fun. I don't beat my cars so I think it should last me. I just drove it 500 miles this weekend without any problems. This week I want to attempt to find the boost leak if any, pinpoint all of this clunking over bumps, and do some other random bs like fix the horn, dome light, bleed the clutch, clean it up, etc.
 
It's easy bro just go to any hardware store and buy a 2.5" Pcv endcap for water pipes. Then take and drill a hole just alittle smaller than the valve. Then push the valve thru the hole and that's it blt ready to go. Then take off your intake and put the blt into the coupler and tighten down tight. Also without a boost gauge to watch how much you are pressurizing just be carefull bro.
 
The boost leak tester is a must have. Can be built for $4-5. Make sure you know what you're doing though! You can mess some stuff up by doing it incorrectly. Do a search
 
It's easy bro just go to any hardware store and buy a 2.5" Pcv endcap for water pipes. Then take and drill a hole just alittle smaller than the valve. Then push the valve thru the hole and that's it blt ready to go. Then take off your intake and put the blt into the coupler and tighten down tight. Also without a boost gauge to watch how much you are pressurizing just be carefull bro.

ok....a few detailed questions:

where can I buy a standard shrader valve?

what can I do to ensure that the air doesn't leak through the hole I drilled for the valve? do you recommend something specific to use to seal it up properly?

which specific intake pike do I use?



also, I was planning on just using a bike tire pump with a gauge on it...I figured 15-20 psi would be sufficient, right?
 
As stated just get a coupler the size of your turbo, a pvc cap, and a BOLT schrader valve (not the rubber ones you just pull through). You won't get enough pressure from a bike pump, however, gas station tire filling systems work great to BLT.

This is what you're making
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/misc/bleaktester.jpg

Notice how the schrader valve has a bolt that tightens it down? That's what you want. Advance auto sells a 2 valve kit for $5. I personally put both valves in the pvc cap, take the actual schrader valve out of one and put a vacuum/fuel hose on it then clamp the other end of the hose to a tire pressure gauge.
 
I used the rubber one and have no leak issues at all. You just gotta drill the hole the right size then pull the valve thru with some muscle LOL. Anyway you go the links and vids, it's not to hard to figure out from there bro.
 
a ha!! That seems easy enough. I'll try to put one together tomorrow based on those videos. They are super helpful. I basically just need to put it on the intake (air filter) side of the turbo, correct? I know this is an obvious one, but I want to be extra careful and double check.
 
Sweet deal on that car.


You can also place the tester on your throttle body elbow pipe, to test your tb, and intake manifold easier.

IC Pipe Tester

I use the rubber valve and have no problems with it either. I made mine with parts found at Home Depot.
 
cool...i'm going to get cracking on this over the next few days. I'll let you know what I find

thanks guys

I just got done checking for boost leak. I immediately heard a hissing sound from the IC. One of the hoses was loose. I knew that's what it would be. I thought to myself when I bought the car "there's no way the turbo is this loud on a stock talon". I really heard it today when I was going through a tunnel.

There was another small leak coming out of the idle screw on the throttle body. It was a tiny leak. How do I remedy that or isn't it a big deal.

Lastly I'm confused about something. The system still leaks a little bit. Is it normal? I mean the air has to go somewhere right? Basically if I pump anymore than ten psi into the system air starts to come out of the pipe going from the bov to the intake pipe that I removed to do the test. Is that normal?
 
About the biss screw, there should be an oring on it, it may need to be replaced. There also should be a rubber plug/cap on the top of the hole for the screw.
 
Cool. Do I simply just unscrew it all the way and replace the prong like a washer? And where would I get such a tiny part. And yeah my stealth is the same but it's also missing the little cap

so I was messing with it some more today. Basically, if I pumped more than 10psi into system, the air starts to leak out of the the tube going from the BOV to the intake. Is this normal...like a pressure release? this is all new to me..

I also found some air leaking around all four fuel injector seals and the biss screw. I guess I"ll mess with them another time
 
can someone please help me with this BOV thing. I did a search and all that, but I'm still unsure of what's going on. Is my BOV broken (it's plastic, so I'm assuming it's a stock 2g), is it only good up to 10~ psi, do I need to replace it, if so, should I get a 1g BOV or what do you recommend....etc.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Please stop bumping your shit- it's against tech forum rules.

The reason the BOV is opening is you're likely doing the test with the throttle closed, therefore no air is entering the top chamber of the valve to hold it shut...so it's dumping like a wastegate at whatever air pressure overcomes the spring.
 
Ok thanks for responding. I'm going to pick up a 1g bov for the heck of it. Everyone recommends it
 
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