2G I bought this car don’t have history behind it can anyone tell what I might be missing for it to turn over.

[Zurc503]

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[pauleyman]

Give us some history, a 20 sec video doesn't tell us much.
Anything you've discovered, list of mods you can see etc. What's your background in DSMs?
Has this car ever run in your possession?

 

[luv2rallye]

Start with basics: Compression, air/fuel, ignition.

 

[Zurc503]

Yea so I bought this car off an older guy had it sitting for about 7 years in his driveway, it was his sons car. He had it built couldn’t tell me much but show me I seen aftermarket parts from fuel system to intake manifold turbo has boost control air to fuel ratio gauges ecm tune im gonna be honest im new to this i dont know much about diagnosing a car im a YouTube guy but couldn’t find much about trouble shooting

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[pauleyman]

Whats your mechanical skill set? Thsts a very modded car. Could be 1000 things wrong.

 

[Zurc503]

Yea so what I’ve done so far is add some fuel and additive to it. New battery, oil changed, filter, didn’t notice any shaving or nothing to indicate that the motor is shot from the inside. I hear it crank that’s a good sign but no turn over.

Noticing that the fuel regulator gauge builds pressure gives me the idea that the gas is reaching to the engine.

I plugged in a spark plug tester to all cylinders according to the packaging instructions it indicates a fault with the fuel as I tested them, the little lite would flash as I’m cranking. I haven’t pulled plugs because I’m waiting for my 13/16 socket because the standard 5/8s doesn’t fit.

That’s where I’m at currently

 

[jdxnc]

There's a good chance if it sat that long the tune could be gone, even with ECMLink V3.

 

[luv2rallye]

A spark plug tester with the little lite flashing while cranking just says you have ignition. It says nothing about fuel, compression, spark plug condition.

 

[Vladimir]

Sounds low compression. Cranks to fast. If you don't have a compression gauge, take out spark plugs and take four paper towels fold them into balls and stick them down the spark plug tube. If all of them fly out like bullets you got compression. It's not the most accurate test, but it's the fastest way to check without the tester. If non fly out check the timing belt if it's torn or teeth broken.

If you got compression spray a little bit of starting fluid into the intake or through the booster intake hose, if it fires for a second you might have fuel delivery issue, if it backfires you might have ignition issues etc... all you need is compression, spark and fuel on a somewhat properly timed engine for the car to run. Also make sure nothing is blocking the air from being sucked in into the throttle body....

 

[9 T GSX]

It sounds like you have a leak somewhere due to the hissing noise I heard or was it something else in the background? Have you done a boost leak check

1. Gauge on FPR appears to loosing pressure a bit faster than it should check hose from pump to sending unit, check diaphram in FPR for rips/tear, leaks anywhere in sytem
2. With it being a 1G in a 2G lets hope all the wiring is correct, if not thats a whole other issue
3. Make sure everything is plugged in hoses and connectors
4. Not sure what kind of tester you have but this doesnt make sense. Definetly check the spark plugs
5. WIre wiggly test, while cranking wiggly the entire engine harness everywhere. Sounds funny but can save hours in troubleshooting in some cases

I plugged in a spark plug tester to all cylinders according to the packaging instructions it indicates a fault with the fuel as I tested them

Keep it simple do all the other suggestions first, Good luck

 

[Zurc503]

Thanks to everybody that has replied with suggestions. I forgot to mention when I tried the starting fluid method thru the intake it cranked a fit faster then it was in the video it just didn’t turn over or backfire. I’ll get back to you guys after trying what is suggested and get back to you guys.

 

[jesse12345]

I hate to add to the many that have posted but if it sat for that long, I'd check out the pump and fuel tank situation first. Pull the back seat and pop the cover off. I'll let everyone else guide you to victory but that's where I'd start.

 

[pauleyman]

I agree with others. Its cranking awfully fast. Would take you very little time to check mechanical timing. If its way off its nearly 100% you have bent valves

 

[Zurc503]

good evening my fellow DSMers a little update I was finally able to pull the spark plugs, plugs looked old 2 of them has signs of lots of fuel maybe from all the cranking I’ve been doing I did a compression test if I did it correctly they all check above minimum compression I’m going to attach some photos. Photos are in order 4-3-2-1. I also smelled gas and the fpr build pressure. Next step is buying new spark plugs. Looking for other ideas to try out before taking it to a tuner for a base map to see if that will get it to turn on. Thanks for all suggestions.

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[Vladimir]

Compression looks good. Those 2 cylinders that are a little lower probably got washed out with fuel. I would check for spark. If you got spark, you got everything needed. There is mostly likely gonna be a problem with a tune, it's flooding the car, or it could be that there is no reading on the ambient and the car is flooding itself etc.

If spark is there remove all plugs, disconnect fuel pump relay and coil pack, crank the car with your foot all the way down on throttle for a good minute 10 seconds at a time. Get a torch and heat up those fuel soaked spark plugs. Put them back, connect everything else back and try to start the car again

It's probably just extremely flooded

 

[luv2rallye]

I'll amend my previous statement. Even though you said you have a spark plug tester with the little lite flashing while cranking, doesn't guarantee adequate spark at the plugs. It just means you have voltage on the cable. Your plugs could still be faulty (flooded, shorted, open, broken, etc), or cable is faulty, or coil is weak, or PTU bad/weak, etc.

What I recommend is to test spark by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then hold/clamp (clamping is preferred) the plug's outer thread casing against the head (ground) while cranking engine (if holding plug, wear rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)). Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

Spark plugs: Appearance: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm#We, FAQ on plug selection: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/233421-spark-plug-faq.html.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Check the coolant temp sensor at the head/thermostat housing and make sure it is connected. Notorious on a 6 bolt for no starts.

 

[dwb]

It has to have some sort of tuning capabilities. Figure out what it is. Possibility ECMLink. I'd suggest to pull the neg battery cable off the battery, then remove the ECU from below the radio. Open it up and see what's on the board for an EPROM chip. Take a few clear pics of the board and reinstall. Post the pic here if you need help identifying the chip. If it's ECMLink, you'll need a cable from ECMTuning and laptop to connect. From there you can see much more about what's going on. Could be like jdxnc suggested earlier and lost the tune.

 

[Zurc503]

Some of my plug wire have gunk build up where the plug connects to would that possibly be a cause for it to not turn on at all?

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I noticed the old plugs were bpr7es the ones I bought were 6es would it be much of a difference if I put the 6es in?

 

[Vladimir]

Corrosion in spark plug wires will increase secondary resistance and lower the intensity of a spark. The value of resistance should be under 10k ohms per foot. Replace the wires, no point of using those

 

[Zurc503]

I’m trying to upload a video it won’t let me so car started turning over I let the switch go and still keeps turning to turn over until I turn key back I did the spark plugs checked compression and fpr builds I will be buying plug wires to swap out

 

[Vladimir]

Sound like the ignition switch or cylinder is sticking. Verify that the ignition primary circuit is good, no high resistance anywhere, that would indicate loose or broken wires, corroded contacts etc... there should be a solid 12v going to the coil primary. Resistance should be very minimal under 5 ohms. Use a test light at least, it should light up bright. Put dielectric grease on plug wire contacts etc .

Also find out what's responsible for the engine management. The car is heavily modified, make sure it's getting all the references it needs, mas air flow, crank position, ambient and engine temp etc.... if the seller pulled the ECU that was tuned and put a regular unturned ECU in her she might be trying to run blind without MAF and flooding out

 

[Zurc503]

It has to have some sort of tuning capabilities. Figure out what it is. Possibility ECMLink. I'd suggest to pull the neg battery cable off the battery, then remove the ECU from below the radio. Open it up and see what's on the board for an EPROM chip. Take a few clear pics of the board and reinstall. Post the pic here if you need help identifying the chip. If it's ECMLink, you'll need a cable from ECMTuning and laptop to connect. From there you can see much more about what's going on. Could be like jdxnc suggested earlier and lost the tune.

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So I connected my laptop has ecmv3 it’s all there connected straight up communicated and gave me all info on what was done still trying to see why it’s not turning over I have ordered plug wires and injector orings I pulled the injectors fuel rail dumped out the gas so I know gas is getting there now trying to figure out if my injectors are spraying

 

[pauleyman]

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So I connected my laptop has ecmv3 it’s all there connected straight up communicated and gave me all info on what was done still trying to see why it’s not turning over I have ordered plug wires and injector orings I pulled the injectors fuel rail dumped out the gas so I know gas is getting there now trying to figure out if my injectors are spraying

Listen to them. Try and start the car on starting fluid. Will point you in a direction quickly

 

[Vladimir]

I still say it cranks too fast. It's sounds like at least 1 or 2 cylinders are trying to fire. Touch the exhaust runners with your hand after some cranking do 1 or 2 of the runners feel warmer?

You said two plugs were wet, 2 were dry. Car has been sitting for 7+years.. compression is good, mechanical timing should be good as well otherwise if it was way off, compression would be off as well.

You said you checked the injector pulse and spark using spark plug test light and noid lights from what I understand....if the flashing of the lights was bright and consistent I would leave it at that for now.

Since you got v3 to connected now. Pull up data stream make sure you got ECT,TPS airflow, RPM and ambient/intake temp in good standing. Make sure you don't notice anything funny there.

Since you did spray starting fluid and the car cranked a lot faster, makes me think like you didn't spray enough or the two cylinders that were wet were flooding the car. But it's a good sign that it cranked a lot faster. Don't go crazy with starting fluid, I've seen techs blow up intakes before .

Now what I think that is actually happening is your injector screen baskets are all gummed up from the car sitting for 7+ years. You have to take out all the injectors buy new baskets and flow test/clean the injectors. It has to be done regardless, cause the car has been sitting for so long... along with the fuel filter. What most likely is happening 2 injectors are completely clogged, two are leaking fuel into the cylinders but they are not spraying just leaking, causing those cylinders to eventually flood out...that why it cranks like that most likely.

Here is a link to my injector cleaner that I was able to put together for under $20. And also I'll add a picture of the injector baskets, they sell them in NAPA, they fit most race injectors under 1000cc from what I've noticed. Baskets are cheap around $2.50 each

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