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i am not not sure if i got a turbo engine

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90 Talon AWD

10+ Year Contributor
148
0
Aug 27, 2008
jonesville, North Carolina
ok i just bought a 4g63 engine that come out of a 91 laser and the guy told me that is was a turbo 6-bolt motor i know it is a 6-bolt but the turbo is not on it the fuel rail is not either and i am not sure if it is a turbo engine it does got a turbo oil pan and intake elbow and no flywheel is there any other way i can tell if it a turbo engine. Thanks
 
ok thanks alot i am getting ready to rebulid it that is way i bought it what do they like sorry i am going to rebild it at school so i dont much yet. thanks
 
its kinda hard to explain, but there are 4 little bent tubes that will point at the bottom of the piston and there ?should? be a nut holding each one on, if you have them you will know what im talkin about what you pull the pan.
 
It's really easy to add oil return and water lines to NT engines. Look for the oil squirters or the pistons.
 
yea it does got a oil return line but the water line is not the this week i am going to take ther motor apart for a rebild. but any thanks for the help guys. oh yea my TB is a 90 and it has t VAC line and the engine i bought is a 91 and on the TB it has 4 VAC lines why is that? thanks
 
Your best bet would have been to just look at the Vin # on the block
the 8th digit Would be a U is it's a 6 bolt turbo motor,the Oil pan can be changed But the Vin can't
 
Where would one find the VIN# on the block, and what would the meaning fo each character in the VIN# mean? I bought a turbo conversion and I want to know if the motor in my car is a N/T with a turbo on it or an actual turbo motor. I also think that many other people would like this info to identify any motors that they may buy or have bought.
 
I highly doubt Mitsubishi would take the time to stamp the whole VIN code on the engine, this is new to the automotive car manufactures and is mostly done on higher end cars were they are commonly stolen and parted out.

When i looked at my 6 bolt block all it says is the engine code and casting number.

Anyway to the OP: A static compression test might help determine if the motor is N/A or turbo but since this can change with wear i wouldn't rely on it unless it was a very low mileage engine. I'd look for key things like others have posted:piston casting #s, oil squirter's, Oil drain return on the pan.

BTW: What made you think theres a possibility it's from a N/A dsm?(just curious)

*Searched* Supposedly there is 6 digits on the front side of the engine, there is a flat rectangle with 6 digits of the VIN on it. I was under the impression they printed the whole VIN on it. The VIN actually contains a lot of information such as seat belts, price code, model, drivetrain, etc.
Anyway it got me thinking when the block is casted that the guy working at the casting facility is like - "Oh here comes a block for a 1994 Eagle Talon Tsi FWD with black leather and automatic seat belts". Like they build the car around the engine.LOL

Seriously though first time i looked at those 6 digits i was thinking to myself..."What poor kid at Mitsubishi took an engraving tool and started engraving the casting # into my block while he was three sheets to the wind."
 
That engine code is a good lead if you know for certain that the engine has never been opened up, but the pistons and oil squirters are the only way to know what you've really got.

The pistons can be swapped easily enough and the block can be machined for the squirters. The oil passage that they tap into is in the same place on both engines, all 6 bolt engines started as the same base casting (all 7 bolt blocks did not, btw).

All that's required is correctly drilling and thread tapping 4 holes in the same location as a turbo 6 bolt block. The squirters are the only real differences between N/A and turbo blocks; pistons, front case, oil pan, OFH, cylinder head, water neck and etc. are whatever was put in/on the last time the engine was apart.
 
I highly doubt Mitsubishi would take the time to stamp the whole VIN code on the engine, this is new to the automotive car manufactures and is mostly done on higher end cars were they are commonly stolen and parted out.

When i looked at my 6 bolt block all it says is the engine code and casting number.

"

You can Doubt it all you want... But the 3 6bolt blocks I have at the moment...And every USDM block I've ever seen had the Vin Stamped on It - one did'nt a 4g64 block but it was likely a JDM block
The JDM motors sometimes have 3 letters or numbers instead
Look below your CAS or the Back left edge of the block (looking from the front of the car If your $h1t is Dirty its VERY hard to see
 
I'll have to take a look at mine.
The block i looked at came out at 145k and just was caked with oil as you can imagine.
 
That engine code is a good lead if you know for certain that the engine has never been opened up, but the pistons and oil squirters are the only way to know what you've really got.

The pistons can be swapped easily enough and the block can be machined for the squirters. The oil passage that they tap into is in the same place on both engines, all 6 bolt engines started as the same base casting (all 7 bolt blocks did not, btw).

All that's required is correctly drilling and thread tapping 4 holes in the same location as a turbo 6 bolt block. The squirters are the only real differences between N/A and turbo blocks; pistons, front case, oil pan, OFH, cylinder head, water neck and etc. are whatever was put in/on the last time the engine was apart.

You have some vary valid points ... I just don't see a reson why the OP should be Riping the Head off to look at the piston when He could just look at the vin...:confused:Even If the motor has been "opened up" I can't see anyone putting together a N/A motor out of a Turbo one When N/a Are so much Cheaper/Easy'r to come Buy

It would be a good Idea to pull the Oil pan IMOA to Look and see if someone has cap'd the oil squirters with bolts(if it is Block with a U) I've seen that before the Bolts for the Oil Squirters Are like $25 Each and People are Cheap....
 
I highly doubt Mitsubishi would take the time to stamp the whole VIN code on the engine, this is new to the automotive car manufactures and is mostly done on higher end cars were they are commonly stolen and parted out.

When i looked at my 6 bolt block all it says is the engine code and casting number.

Anyway to the OP: A static compression test might help determine if the motor is N/A or turbo but since this can change with wear i wouldn't rely on it unless it was a very low mileage engine. I'd look for key things like others have posted:piston casting #s, oil squirter's, Oil drain return on the pan.

BTW: What made you think theres a possibility it's from a N/A dsm?(just curious)

*Searched* Supposedly there is 6 digits on the front side of the engine, there is a flat rectangle with 6 digits of the VIN on it. I was under the impression they printed the whole VIN on it. The VIN actually contains a lot of information such as seat belts, price code, model, drivetrain, etc.
Anyway it got me thinking when the block is casted that the guy working at the casting facility is like - "Oh here comes a block for a 1994 Eagle Talon Tsi FWD with black leather and automatic seat belts". Like they build the car around the engine.LOL

Seriously though first time i looked at those 6 digits i was thinking to myself..."What poor kid at Mitsubishi took an engraving tool and started engraving the casting # into my block while he was three sheets to the wind."

Out of the 8 6bolt blocks I have sitting here, all of them have the complete vin stamped on them. If you look on the tranny end of the block, just above the bellhousing, and to the left of the core/freeze plug, you will see the # stamped, not engraved. The tranny has a rectangular casted boss on the upper front edge of the bellhousing which also contains the complete vin which is also stamped. Most auto manufacturers have been stamping vin's in major mechanical parts for a very long time. If you look close enough, you can also find stickers on every body panel that have the complete vin of the car they were removed from. Including the bumper covers.

engine code stamp location
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VIN stamp location
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