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HY35 Mods

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stevenr816

10+ Year Contributor
54
0
Jan 29, 2009
Phoenix, Arizona
Picked up a HY35 (originally thinking it was a HX35) and had to modify the scroll to clear the balance shaft casting. Atleast on the stock manifold, so made this work till the new manifold and HX35 come in the mail.

Did some trig and milled the t3 flange 6* net gain was about 1/2" forward.
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Also while I was there I threw the compressor housing in the bridge port to cut down the v band to 2.5"
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its not to bad. tappers from 0.500" to 0.300" its the 9cm^2 housing and hits the block.
Yes an adapter. Its just till the new manifold get here in a week
 
clean work, is that an TiAlN bit? I've been machining for a long time (since high school, but mainly for hobby and in my own business as a self emplyed fabricatof) and one thing i always hate is dulling down my end mills on hard metals (although that cast is rather soft) i just wanted to ask in general about some end mills of choice that don't dull down too fast when you are milling doing harder materials. I was using Niagara EM's for a while because i was getting good prices on them but after having a few of them crap out like cheap import HF EM's do, i've been ordering this and that trying to pick a new brand of cutter.

I mainly use cobalt and carbide on harder stuff, and reserve my HSS for aluminum and soemtimes i use HSS on things like brake rotors for bikes when i'm slotting or lightening them for road/drag racing. I stick with either TiN or TiAlN coatings mainly because i know how they perform and with some EM's being 70+ dollars a piece I just can't afford to "test" everything i want to (im mainly a fab guy for auto/motorcycle and just have a mill and lathe in the shop, not really a straight up tool-n-die style shop), I keep My speeds and feeds in check, but with no where locally to have them sharpened i have to make the most of my end mills lives. I'm sorry if this is sdrifing a little off topic but this is custom fab and the question pertains so hopefully you won't mind helpin a brotha out :)

Also one more thing.. I use WD40 on aluminum, and ive tried tons of things on ferrous metals like mystic metal mover (my favorite) and few other sprays, but i don't use fog and rarely use my flood setup because of the mess and the fact that i have kept the CNC conversion at bay..anything you can help me with on machining SS? (most end mills i use range from 1/4 to 3/8th and 5/16th because most of my work is smaller, but i apreciate any advice you might be able to pass on)

Glenn
 
That looks like an hx35 not an hy. The hys have v-band outlet cast into the housing. Weird I just noticed the housings not divided. Must be a rare combo/hotside.
 
Ya we use those bits and buy usually a 100 at a time. So there pretty cheap. We have seriously pretty much a box full of them cause we throw them away after 3 parts made cause our tolerances are +/- .0025 or less. We usually deal with inconel and HA230. We make diffusers for JSF/honeysell/coastgaurd and a couple missiles for Raytheon. We have 5 machines including a puma, CMM down to .00005", granite 8x4' for inspecting part in the clean room, 2 lathes w/DRO and 2 Cnc bridge ports except Z axis. I'll get back in the morning on advice it's bedtime.

And ya it's a HY35, 9cm^2, with a clamp instead of the 6 bolt, 2mm smaller inducer and no model plate.
I have the one on the right
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That looks like an hx35 not an hy. The hys have v-band outlet cast into the housing. Weird I just noticed the housings not divided. Must be a rare combo/hotside.
I believe you're thinking of the HE341/351.

The O.P. definitely has a HY35.
 
SO the is the pic with two turbos an HY and an HX? If so i think i would prefer the HY35 for it's smaller housing even if it's flow is a little less, not having to dent the water pipe would be nice IMO.

Even if the thin area on the milled flange is a little thin, the OP could always weld a piece of 3/8th's plate cut to the TS flange shape on there, then re-surface the gasket mating area and be good to go while retaining the angle for clearance. Which again is back to my preference of not having to dent the water pipe.

great thread!
 
The HY bearly flows 50lbs. The turbine, hotside, compressor, and housing are all smaller. After the mods to get it off the block the positioning still sucks. The coolant hose is pretty much in the center of the inlet so no filter could be ran without decent work.

I definitely want something more laggy then this one
 
How well does it spool?

3rd gear from 2500rpm spooled around 3300 I'll verify on the datalog tomorrow. I have no clue where this internal wastegate opens it hit 25psi and I let off just cause it was the first time out.

You can see how bad the coolant line is on this pic
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have you tried a manifold to head spacer? It might bring the whole assembly out far enough that you get more clearance between the turbo and the water pipe. Some people just use a weldable flange in between the head and exhaust manifold.
 
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