Hp rating on stock axles.

[jaredgsx]

I was wondering how much HP the stock axles can take? The driveshaft? What would be good upgrages? Will the stock differentials be able to handle what i throw at it? What about the transfer case?

This is on an awd. No educated guesses please. I am trying to make sure my driveline can handle what I am about to do to it.

 

[aaannntt1965]

my 91 has 303hp(dyno) i have a act 2600. i brought to 5500. my foot slipped off the clutch and blew the center diff. look up evileagle. if you search this site and dsmtalk you can find what your looking for. gook luck.
ant

 

[Dream On]

What exactly are you planning to "throw at it?"

 

[jaredgsx]

What exactly are you planning to "throw at it?"

Does not matter.

Thanks will talk to evil and check on dsm talk.

 

[Lunch_Box]

Tapp Auto had a 2.4L Talon that ran mid 9's with 1.6 60' times on stock axles and driveshaft. If you want the best go to driveshaftshop.com and open up the wallet.

 

[wishihadatalon]

The stock green axles are good for alot. I know kiggly ran a stock 2g axle setup when he ran 9s but that was fwd. The only problems I have seen from people are breaking re-man axles and re-man u-joints in teh driveshaft. Also Evan Cline runs stock axles running 10s I am sure there are more. It really shouldn't be a concern.

 

[Turbocharged]

If your mods are current in your profile, you don't need to upgrade any of the parts you mentioned. Your center differential is the weak point. I personally have never broke any drivetrain components other than clutches. I have 150k miles on my car and 400 hp.

 

[wishihadatalon]

It should also be noted that its probably not the hp that will kill the axles (if you can) but more the shock from a super hard launch.

 

[TSIfreek]

It should also be noted that its probably not the hp that will kill the axles (if you can) but more the shock from a super hard launch.

Ding Ding Ding we have a winner!!!

 

[DSM90AWD]

Does not matter

Thanks will talk to evil and check on dsm talk.

The answer to your question is 200-600WHP or when you break them

 

[jaredgsx]

No the parts in my list are not current because i am not done building my car yet, those are from a very long time ago. I went a head and just ordered the driveshaft shop ones.

But thanks for all of the info

 

[Dream On]

Does not matter.

Thanks will talk to evil and check on dsm talk.

Well I would say it matters...Considering if you're only shooting for like 300 HP or like 700 HP, there'd be quite a difference in what people would suggest. We're trying to help, but when you give such limited info, how do you expect answers?

 

[DSM90AWD]

Hope you got a decent tranny/x-fer case too as those will go well before the rear axles

 

[jaredgsx]

I am shooting for around 700hp. I have sheps stage 3, i went a head and ordered the driveshaft shop's axles, as far as transfercase i dont know who makes a stronger one.

 

[topstreet]

Frank at driveshaft shop makes the upgrade Tcase, but it requires a new drive shaft. ACPT 1 piece carbon fiber is 2000.oo and Frank offers an aluminum one with the Tcase upgrade. Not sure how much just check the site.

I have the 1piece ACPT and DSS (frank's) Tcase. I have stock axles and am currently making 800ish whp and 600ish torque. I have never broken one.

Hope this helps!

 

[jaredgsx]

That it does, thank you again sir

 

[wishihadatalon]

Frank at driveshaft shop makes the upgrade Tcase, but it requires a new drive shaft. ACPT 1 piece carbon fiber is 2000.oo and Frank offers an aluminum one with the Tcase upgrade. Not sure how much just check the site.

I have the 1piece ACPT and DSS (frank's) Tcase. I have stock axles and am currently making 800ish whp and 600ish torque. I have never broken one.

Hope this helps!

isn't the geometry of the trans and the rear end to far off to run a 1 pc axle?

 

[jaredgsx]

i thought that its a stright shot from where the first drive shaft enters into the t-case and then back to the diff? or am i mistaken

 

[larsrya8]

isn't the geometry of the trans and the rear end to far off to run a 1 pc axle?

Drive Shaft Shop seems to think so. Theirs replaces only the first two shafts.

 

[topstreet]

The Tcase does not line up perfectly with the rearend. A 1310 ujoint on each end and a "MAX" of 5" (more than likely half that) would meen 2.5 degrees per joint. In the big scheme of things it NOTHING!!!

Do the research on carbon or aluminum and you will see they are rated (on a driveshaft) by being able to twist a certain amount. Having 2 pieces limits this. It also adds weight. A third ujoint only adds one more area of flex. Seeing as we are already talking about close to nothing for an angle.... Another joint to reduce this is not going to do much at all. A bigger driveshaft will hit most exhausts in the rear. Maybe this is Franks (DSS) reason? Maybe to keep it cheaper for the average DSMer out there.

The u joint is BARELY weakened by the angle. worst case you may have to replace the ujoint 20-30k sooner. Considering you will have several tranies, sets of tires, more than likely engines or new cars in the next 150,000 miles..... I am not too conserned about this.

 

[wishihadatalon]

The Tcase does not line up perfectly with the rearend. A 1310 ujoint on each end and a "MAX" of 5" (more than likely half that) would meen 2.5 degrees per joint. In the big scheme of things it NOTHING!!!

Do the research on carbon or aluminum and you will see they are rated (on a driveshaft) by being able to twist a certain amount. Having 2 pieces limits this. It also adds weight. A third ujoint only adds one more area of flex. Seeing as we are already talking about close to nothing for an angle.... Another joint to reduce this is not going to do much at all. A bigger driveshaft will hit most exhausts in the rear. Maybe this is Franks (DSS) reason? Maybe to keep it cheaper for the average DSMer out there.

The u joint is BARELY weakened by the angle. worst case you may have to replace the ujoint 20-30k sooner. Considering you will have several tranies, sets of tires, more than likely engines or new cars in the next 150,000 miles..... I am not too conserned about this.

So you are talking a normal "cross" u-joint? Why don't they jsut run a constant velocity joint (double cross used by trucks with extreme geometry changes)? I have had a few discussions about this with a few people and everyone says a 2pc at least. Maybe its just a good idea to have motor welded to the chasis so the angles don't change at all

 

[topstreet]

Having nice stiff mounts is always going to help. (welded or not)

I am glad you bring up the trucks!!! I was talking about having "maybe" a 5 degree angle on the dsm. The double cardagin (double + ujoint) style would be a good solution... If there were a problem. That type of jount is created to withstand 15-50 or 60 degrees or more. Check out HIGHANGLEDRIVELINES.COM

They are building 75-80 degree shafts. Nearly every truck in the US gets sold with 3-4 times the amount of angle we have using a one piece.

The drivetrain will handle it!

 

[wishihadatalon]

Having nice stiff mounts is always going to help. (welded or not)

I am glad you bring up the trucks!!! I was talking about having "maybe" a 5 degree angle on the dsm. The double cardagin (double + ujoint) style would be a good solution... If there were a problem. That type of jount is created to withstand 15-50 or 60 degrees or more. Check out HIGHANGLEDRIVELINES.COM

They are building 75-80 degree shafts. Nearly every truck in the US gets sold with 3-4 times the amount of angle we have using a one piece.

The drivetrain will handle it!

Well thank you for clearing that up. Just trying to cover all of the angles.

 

[topstreet]

Thumbs Up Man!!!