*How to Tune with your Wideband*

[dsm-onster]

K'mon man, your not serious..WTF

HAHAHAHAHAHA! and . . . . You are! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!



Mass Air Flow Sensor.

 

[diambo4life]

This won't work. If you are setting your A:F first, and then raising your boost, you are adding more air thus changing your A:F.

The proper way to do it would be to first lower your timing (to keep things safe) and then set boost. Once you have the boost where you want it, you then tune for your target A:F. Once you have the desired A:F, you can then add timing to make power.

What a ####ing joke?

Do you know what a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator and a MAFS do? If you adjust your fuel curve for 11.5AFR across at 10psi and raise the boost to 20psi, your A/F ratio will be.....guess what? 11.5 as long as your fuel system is up to par. You are not "adding more air." At 10 psi of boost with a 37psi base, your fuel pressure is 47psi. At 20psi of boost it's 57psi. Can you get a hint? You are not only adding air. That was a funny post.

 

[1990EclipseGSX]

I agree. Very comical.

 

[Boost95]

Ive been tuning quiet a bit latley. Other than being able to monitor your AFR at all times, I dont see it to be that useful with tuning my car. We tune our cars for no knock, so you cant just aim for a certain AFR because most likley you will have knock you need to tune out.

 

[tstkl]

In my opinion you are right, but if you turn up the boost, more likely than not, your ratios won't be EXACTLY the same. I think you'll have to re tune it, but it shouldn't be too much tuning. Even with the best fuel system in the world, I think there are likely to be a few slight changes. You have to remember, in a lab, all the results are predicted, and in a dsm, its what satan made it, and no one understands that, not even satan himself.


(have you ever taken your car to a stealership? exactly)

 

[jepherz]

Boost, I think you should do more research before you post on topics like this. I don't mean to call you out, but people who are trying to learn can be thrown off.

First of all, in our stock ECUs, both the fuel and timing maps have load (read: airflow in g/rev) listed on one axis. What does this mean? It means your A/F ratios will basically stay the same no matter what boost you are running. As long as the MAF isn't over-running, it is reading HOW MUCH air is flowing into the engine and choosing the appropriate row of the tables.

Secondly, you should be setting your A/F ratio to a certain ratio as a base/starter. With several variables, you need to set some things and not change them. Then your 'control' is timing. As people have been saying, somewhere in the 10.5-11.5 range is a good spot to shoot for on pump gas. Of course, this all depends on the car, setup, and gas quality. After you have found a stable A/F ratio, you keep raising timing. Ideally, you would be tuning on a dyno, and see that your power will refrain from going higher as you increase the timing past a certain point. You shouldn't be adjusting the fuel after you have stepped on to the timing.

The idea behind tuning is so simple; it's the cars that make it complex. No car is the same, and the fact that people are throwing an ever growing of setups on them makes it worse. The 'experience' comes in handy when tuning because a person will know what type of A/F ratios to shoot for on certain cars, and thus get the appropriate mix to obtain max power. If you aren't getting good power numbers and you start to knock, (assuming you should have more power left on your setup) you need to start from the beginning again and either adjust your boost, or add some fuel. Then you have to do the timing again.

Not only is running rich an expensive water injection, but it won't work as well either.

Hope this helps clear up some confusion.

 

[AL92]

Ok also tuning my car these days and trying to get this stuff clear.
So on pump 92 I should go for 10.5 to mabye 11.0 for keeping things pretty safe.
And do I pull the sliders down to hit 11.1 at every band or am I only worried about having it leaner after the turbo spools up or should I go quite a bit leaner pre spool and during spool?
And what effect will a bit more timing have on pre spool and spool?
Its not quite as easy as setting it to 11 to 1 accross all the sliders is it.And does anyone know the specific gravity of 94 sunoco or mohawk 94 or husky 94..all are same gasohol blend heard it was like .94 not .97.

I think will phone company and check to be sure.

 

[scottsee]

Ok also tuning my car these days and trying to get this stuff clear.
So on pump 92 I should go for 10.5 to mabye 11.0 for keeping things pretty safe.
And do I pull the sliders down to hit 11.1 at every band or am I only worried about having it leaner after the turbo spools up or should I go quite a bit leaner pre spool and during spool?
And what effect will a bit more timing have on pre spool and spool?
Its not quite as easy as setting it to 11 to 1 accross all the sliders is it.And does anyone know the specific gravity of 94 sunoco or mohawk 94 or husky 94..all are same gasohol blend heard it was like .94 not .97.

I think will phone company and check to be sure.

Wow, almost all of this original post had nothing to do with wideband o2 tuning. I have found pump gas is extreamly hard to tune past (leaner) then 10.8:1 when trying to push a turbo deep into/past it's max effency range. Boost= Heat, I'm sure you don't need an explination on what heat does for mechanical/volumetric effencies. There comes to a point where even with a really large FMIC you just need to lay off and sacrifice the little extra boost to reduce heat...

This is not a guide.. Only my personal thoughts and experences, please don't take what I have to say any other way then just as my personal prefrences.

Telling you what to shoot for is really pointless, only you know what feels good to you.. Setting a base tune at 10:5 at your desired boost levels is a pretty consirvitive, safe tune. When tuning with dsmlink/wideband I like to leave the AFR as consistently level as I can. Leaning/richeing up the combustion chamber can cause plenty of unwanted effects. I reduce timing -1 when boost threshold hits to reduce the likely hood of preignition. Sometimes at higher boost (20+) I have had to take -2 out of the timing sliders to combat knocking at boost threshold. When you strart seeing detination from your knock sensor so early on in the hp/tq curve it tends to stick around, kind of like NLTS knock.

You wont fail if you shoot for 10.5:1 on 75% of max boost and lean it out from their. Keep your eyes on the timing curve. You want a good "stair step" advace without dips or plato's. Shooting for max advance is a great way to learn what a good effecent tune should look like before trying to trick-#### the car into running like a raped ape...

 

[selmerguy]

Sorry to thread jack but has anybody found a way to get a wideband to work with a pocket logger? I have a palm m100 logger setup and a innovate lc-1 and xd-16 wideband setup. It would be very handy to setup the analog output from the wideband to o into the logger and have all then info there instead of using two different logging devices.