How to install RRE lower tie bar??

[2gmitsueclipse]

I know this is coming back from the dead, but does anyone know the size/pitch/length of the bolts required to install this bar. I picked one up from a member on here and I have the spacer, but no bolts.

 

[TSiAWD666]

I'm pretty sure you just use the original bolts. I don't recall receiving any bolts with mine, just the spacers.

 

[DGajre777]

Nice pics! I had that bar for a few weeks, and I scraped the bottom of the car every day... sold it a month later.

 

[jtmcinder]

One of the cool things about having a huge skidplate is that it acts like a lower front tie-bar due to where it attaches to the car.

The thing I said about a whole degree of camber was an overstatement, but I do remember losing a bit when I put it on. But you're only losing camber that exists when you're sitting still. As soon as there's any side-force on the suspension (as in: when actually turning), you'd lose the same or more without the bar installed.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

One of the cool things about having a huge skidplate is that it acts like a lower front tie-bar due to where it attaches to the car.

The thing I said about a whole degree of camber was an overstatement, but I do remember losing a bit when I put it on. But you're only losing camber that exists when you're sitting still. As soon as there's any side-force on the suspension (as in: when actually turning), you'd lose the same or more without the bar installed.

Do you remember having to use longer bolts for this bar to install? From the pictures in this thread, I see that extra washers were used in addition to the spacer that came with the bar. I have the bar and supplied spacer.

 

[turbosax2]

Have you even tried to bolt the bar up yet? I'm pretty sure the bar originally came with new bolts when purchased from RRE, but I can't say for sure. If the original bolts are not long enough...

Original bolt length + spacer length + additional washers length (if required) = length of new bolt

The bolts are M10x1.25.

 

[lowell]

I've installed a few of the RRE bars on 2g's, and after moving my downpipe as high as possible, came up with this for my 1G. 1" dia aluminum spacers keep the plate perfectly in plane, and before/after testing showed 75% less flex between the LCA pickups.

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Example of how I measure deflection. 1G rear subframe test, dyno straps around the wheel.

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[PieEyedPiper]

Nice work.

Did you have to cut/reweld the dp to get a flat plate like that to clear? It'd be awfully too convenient if it were a matter of adjusting exhaust hangers or some such.

I really like your approach.

 

[lowell]

No way to get that kind of exhaust clearance without custom fab work, especially with the garbage downpipes all the vendors seem to make. I left just enough space to the oil pan to put heat reflective tape on with around 1mm air gap.

My o2 housing has a slip joint on the horizontal to enable DP and transfer case removal with one T bolt clamp for ease of servicing. You can see the T clamp in the first pic above.

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[2gmitsueclipse]

No way to get that kind of exhaust clearance without custom fab work, especially with the garbage downpipes all the vendors seem to make. I left just enough space to the oil pan to put heat reflective tape on with around 1mm air gap.

My o2 housing has a slip joint on the horizontal to enable DP and transfer case removal with one T bolt clamp for ease of servicing. You can see the T clamp in the first pic above.

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That is some nice fabrication work..