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How should I fix this coolant leak?

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Dave4g63

Supporting VIP
203
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Nov 28, 2009
Newport, New Hampshire
Hello other unfortunate DSM owners :p I have been working on my car all winter and have finally got the engine back into the car with a new transmission and transfer case. Filled it up with coolant let her start running and made some base adjustments. After she was all good I let her sit for a while and came out to find a coolant leak. Its coming from a line on the block that wasn't leaking before I pulled the engine. It appears that its coming from the line its self not the washers or I would just replace those and be done with it. I have been scouring the usual places I purchase parts, mainly STM and ExtremePSI and I can't find this line anywhere, even autozone. Where can I find this line at and what would it be called? I Don't recall any of my previous DSM's having the coolant line there but I could just be forgetting about it. I picked this car up in august of last year and haven't even been able to drive it further than my driveway but the Engine was Rebuilt by Mitsu in late 2012 and only has about 10k on the shortblock. Seems funny for that line to be so rusty and nasty but I guess they didn't replace the line when they redid the engine.

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I don't have the part number, and unfortunately the nearest dealership is an hour away and as far as I am concerned that dealership is a joke, every time I try to order parts from them they always let me down, not worth the gas.
 
usually the line does not leak. the bolt that attaches the line has two cooper washers. there might be one cooper washer or both cooper washer missing. or not torque enought.
 
Both Washers are there and I can't tighten that bolt anymore, its possible for a washer to be buggard up a bit but there is coolant on the metal line it self above the bolt.
 
take the banjo bolt out take it to any part store or the cooper washer or washers have them match them up. inspect the line carefully around the banjo bolt contact area. follow the torque specs.
 
what happened is something hit that bolt causing the copper washer to flatten out more and start leaking or it was never tight enough .try to use a thin open end wrench and see if you can make it tighter
 
take the banjo bolt out take it to any part store or the cooper washer or washers have them match them up. inspect the line carefully around the banjo bolt contact area. follow the torque specs.

I'll try that tommorow, do you know the torque spec for that bolt by chance?

what happened is something hit that bolt causing the copper washer to flatten out more and start leaking or it was never tight enough .try to use a thin open end wrench and see if you can make it tighter

Tried right before I took those pictures, I can't get any tighter. I put it on with my 3' snap on 1/2 ratchet so shes nice and snug haha.
 
Those copper washers are "crush" washers. Can only be used once as they crush to conform so they must be replaced each time you remove the bolt. Try new ones.

If leak is from pipe fitting itself, you'll need a new "cylinder block water return pipe" Mitsu part number MD306413 (item 01356 attached image). Available here "http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=MD306413&make=Mitsubishi&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214331" or here "https://www.jnztuning.com/oempartscat.html".
 

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Those copper washers are "crush" washers. Can only be used once as they crush to conform so they must be replaced each time you remove the bolt. Try new ones.

If leak is from pipe fitting itself, you'll need a new "cylinder block water return pipe" Mitsu part number MD306413 (item 01356 attached image). Available here "http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=MD306413&make=Mitsubishi&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214331" or here "https://www.jnztuning.com/oempartscat.html".

Your my hero for today!! Thanks that is exactly what I needed, I replaced the washers today and it didn't fix the problem, it is leaking from the top of the pipe itself. Thanks again!!
 
Or you could just delete the line and run it off of something else and use the correct thread bolt to plug that port. If you want to modify it.
 
You're going to have to replace the hard line that the banjo bolt runs through. With the age of these cars you'll have cracks that the eye has trouble seeing. Replacing the banjo bolt itself isn't a bad idea either. Should cost you about 25 bucks for everything and you'll be all set.
 
I pulled the old line off and got a good look at it,
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Obviously there was the problem, I ordered my parts from Mitsubishi Parts | OEM Mitsubishi Parts | Genuine Mitsubishi Parts only took a few days to get them and the prices were pretty good

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Installed everything and now no more leaks, thanks everyone!!
 

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