How do YOU break in a fresh engine?

[Redwidow]

Alright Everyone, I know there are articles on breaking in an engine such as this one: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/215733-engine-break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html

I have read through it, and it seems that everyone has different opinions. What I am looking for here is:

1. What oil did YOU use for YOUR engine break-in?
2. Did you run any boost or did you unhook the waste gate actuator and run no boost? If you ran boost, how much did you run?
3. What are YOUR oil change intervals?
4. Did you Break it in easy, or Did you break it in hard?
5. What was your method of break in? 2k rpm's up to 6500 then back down, 30mph to 50mph at full throttle then back down, etc.

I am looking for personal experience here, not any he said she said stuff.

So How did YOU break-in YOUR fresh engine?

 

[viperlp01]

Andy whats going on man. Soo... I did 8 psi break in boost first off. First start up checked everything and let it get to operating temp. I backed it out of the shop and drove it down the street twice and pulled back in the shop and changed the oil. I was running some bullcrap oil but after doing some research I would run supertech walmart oil. 5 quarts for 10 bucks and it is pennzoil/quaker state. I followed the motorman method. Taking it up to 5k and letting the engine pull the car down. 8psi of boost up to 5k and repeat for the first 200 miles. Dont let the car cruise around at the same rpm.

 

[Redwidow]

Awesome John, That is exactly the information I'm looking for. Thanks

 

[LiquidX]

Oil changes should be 50miles, 100 miles, 250, 500, 1000 IMO. You want to make sure the ring shavings and any other metal is flushed out of the motor. For the oil just use cheap dino oil as you will be draining it often and you need it to have high friction unlike synthetic.

Don't forget that there are people who break in fresh motors 1/4 mile at a time down the track.

 

[JacksonAuto]

I've broken in literally dozens of engines. We break them in on an engine dyno but the same procedures apply to the engine in a car.

I used to use regular 30wt non detergent oil. Then switched to Shell Rotella until they removed the zinc and all the good additives. I then moved onto the Brad Penn 30wt Break In blend and am very happy with it. The key is to stay away from synthetics.

No boost.

I like to get the engine up to operating temperature by running it between 2500 and 3500 RPM with NO load and let it cool down overnight. The next day, cut open the oil filter and inspect for metal. If all is well, replace the filter and do a compression and leakdown test. If everything checks out okay it's time to drive the car for an hour or so. Still no boost and keep the loads to a minimum. Back to the shop, cut open the filter and do another compression and leakdown test. If everything is cool I'll change the oil to a good synthetic and consider the engine broken in and begin tuning.

 

[LiquidX]

Why don't you boost the engine? It helps break in the rings by having load on them both by positive combustion chamber pressure and by vacuum from engine braking. Also with todays cylinder honing process, the rings break in within the first couple hundred miles if not sooner.

 

[JacksonAuto]

No boost and light loads because 90% of the time the engine hasn't been tuned yet. It minimizes the possibility of damage from an AFR that's way off. It's also a good idea to break the engine in on stock injectors and stock tune to avoid washing out the rings.

 

[TSIfreek]

I've broken in literally dozens of engines. We break them in on an engine dyno but the same procedures apply to the engine in a car.

I used to use regular 30wt non detergent oil. Then switched to Shell Rotella until they removed the zinc and all the good additives. I then moved onto the Brad Penn 30wt Break In blend and am very happy with it. The key is to stay away from synthetics.

No boost.

I like to get the engine up to operating temperature by running it between 2500 and 3500 RPM with NO load and let it cool down overnight. The next day, cut open the oil filter and inspect for metal. If all is well, replace the filter and do a compression and leakdown test. If everything checks out okay it's time to drive the car for an hour or so. Still no boost and keep the loads to a minimum. Back to the shop, cut open the filter and do another compression and leakdown test. If everything is cool I'll change the oil to a good synthetic and consider the engine broken in and begin tuning.

Well said. Oil changes and filter inspections are a very good Idea as it let you know if anything is wearing improperly. Keep a good eye on your oil pressure gauge as well.. With the cylinder wall finish the shops use today the rings seat very quickly with no load.

 

[Redwidow]

Great info guys, this is what I like to hear. I will be running the stock oil psi gauge and also running one off the head.

The big thing it seems everyone has a difference in opinion on is whether to break in under load, or be easy on it. Id like to hear some more opinions on that