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how do these white rotors look?

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So I just received these. Cost $180 +/-. All I know is they look and feel (in my hands) a whole lot nicer than my stocks. Only thing is they weigh the same, or a little more as they have more material. I'm gonna consider paying the premium to upgrade to lighter ones because that's an upgrade I wouldn't want to wait a whole other life span of these rotors here. I'm assuming there are lighter, stronger, or as strong ones out there unless I'm wrong. Will shop now...
 

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Holy crap that's a tonne of cash for a stock rotor w/ holes drilled in it. Centric really has a racket going if they're just taking their Premium rotor, drilling it and charging $60 more a piece.
For that money I'd be more interested in EBC rotors or something entirely different, perhaps moving towards 2 piece. Some folks have upgraded their brackets/rotors and/or calipers for near $180.00.
 
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The only bad problem I have ever found with slotted and cross drilled rotors is that you will have to replace your brakes pads sooner than if you were to use conventional rotors. I suppose if you upgraded your brake pads to a carbon fiber/ceramic pads then you will get a few more miles out of them than you regular semi-metallic brake pads. Other than that fact, you cannot beat the way slotted/cross drilled rotors can stop a vehicle in all types of wet weather conditions. No matter what the cost per rotor is, the safety aspect of braking is greatly enhanced by such an upgrade as replacing the stock rotors with the slotted/cross drilled designs i.m.o.
 
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What about weight? Haven't had a chance to shop around yet but these bad boys feel like 18 lbs a piece. I'd imagine they might have them available at 13 lbs maybe? Anyone know?
 
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PieEyedPiper, these are the ones I got:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1611746

And these are a couple I found of the EBC brand of similar price:

www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-gd680/overview/year/1993/make/mitsubishi/model/eclipse

&

www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-usr680/overview/year/1993/make/mitsubishi/model/eclipse

I chose the ones I chose because they have the Swiss cheese thing going on. Do you think the EBC's would be any better? I wouldn't really know. I read the specs but it's a little Chinese to me. But anyway, on to lightweight rotor shopping...
 
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I want stopping power(drilled with good pads?), resistance to heat(slotted/drilled?) anti-(hydroplaning between pad/rotor. Correct term please?) slotted, and rust resistant(zinc coat?). And now Im curious about weight, but so far havent really found anything other than some mention about how lighter should mean weaker ability to absorb heat therefore premature failure. So maybe Im good with what I got. So far have only read mostly good reviews on centric, which is what I have.

Edit: oh, and if I could find all that in white or gold...
 
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You seem to overanalyze a lot. Quality brands yield good results typically. Get a pad and fluid designed for what you are doing. nobody makes white rotors. Hou can get zinc pplated. Skip the cross drill. Skip the hype. Skip the marketing. Define what you need. None if this matters if you run cheap tires (do not know what you have). None of this maters without some objectivity. If what you have does what you need there is no reason to change. If it doesn't do you have a measiure of what you want it to do? Define the problem. Work the solution. Anything else is subjective pissing in the wind.
 
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Thanks for the effort there pauleyman but that didnt really help. I think I got a decent pair hopefully better than my stocks.

I wanted a better quality rotor with the attributes I mentioned and I think the ones I got have those better than my stocks and as far as what is hype and marketing I wouldnt have the experience to know -yet.
 
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pauleyman said:
You seem to overanalyze a lot. Quality brands yield good results typically. Get a pad and fluid designed for what you are doing. nobody makes white rotors. Hou can get zinc pplated. Skip the cross drill. Skip the hype. Skip the marketing. Define what you need. None if this matters if you run cheap tires (do not know what you have). None of this maters without some objectivity. If what you have does what you need there is no reason to change. If it doesn't do you have a measiure of what you want it to do? Define the problem. Work the solution. Anything else is subjective pissing in the wind.
Click to expand...




Agreed. F1 and Nascar both use full-faced rotors, and F1 races in all kinds of bad weather.
 
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hopefully better.... I think the ones.......
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to bust your chops. I'm saying what you're asking isn't objective. It's subjective demonstrated by the above statements. You won't find objective data in a good blank rotor but it's been most folks experience that if you buy quality name brand parts you can expect consistent results. Now as to what it will or won't do that is where you need to measure. "better" braking doesn't mean anything. Now if you stopped from 60 ft in 120ft and your new setup does it in 110 ft. That's objective.
Or if you've been to the track and experience fade after 2 laps and now you can go 10 laps....that's objecctive (sorta). You need to define what the problem is before you apply a solution. If what your problem is the brakes are ugly and you like the look of cross drilled...there is nothing wrong with that but it doesn't necessarily mean it would yield objective results. If you're familiar with the saying...teach a man to fish. Get it?
 
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Alright alright. I'm getting the message from you guys so far. Go with brand name with basic setup unless you know exactly what you're looking for or exactly what your problem is. Was looking for something with advanced features, some say are just gimmicky, but I've also read otherwise and I've got them already so I'll find out and report I guess right?
 
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Well I did say I wanted a rotor that would do better with weather, rusting and gripping better during rain, and one that cold better to resist warping or whatever causes pulsation. I thought that was clear, clear enough for someone posting in the newbie section
 
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Ok well at least those are clearly defined attributes. As for rusting etc there are a number of manufacturers that make zinc plated rotors which do very well. Of course the friction surface still rusts but only if you let them sit for awhile. Gripping during rain? I've not seen any brakes that are poor at this so I'm not sure why you asked. You should be able to overpower your tires at will in the rain, at least on a street car on street tires. Now as far as resisting warping, I doubt you'll find any objective data on this one. You also won't find what a rotor is made out of but I would suspect this would play a role. I personally chose brembo rotors for their reputation as an OEM supplier. They make a zinc plated slotted rotor that has suited me well. I have not tracked this car. I've tracked a car with the smaller brakes and didn't make it two laps before my brakes were nearly on fire. You may have better luck trying different pads but the trade offs may be cold performance, noise and brake dust. There are planty of guys that switch pads to go to the autocross etc and switch back for street use. There is likely no magic formula. Fewer compromises are made when your wallet gets thicker.
 
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Thanks PM! That's a lot of good info

P.s. I guess I read somewhere that slots/dimples were good for clearing out water(rain) along with other braking related debris which makes sense to me. Never knew if I had any such braking issues but it sounded like a nice additional feature
 
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