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How do I install a boost gauge [gage, guage] on a 1g, 2g? [ merged ]

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He bought the black face gauge, so when there is no power to it, all you see is black.

The switch panel in th dash next to your window(I don't remember what's there). Pull that out and find a source that comes on with the key or use the radio power wire.
 
He bought the black face gauge, so when there is no power to it, all you see is black.

The switch panel in th dash next to your window(I don't remember what's there). Pull that out and find a source that comes on with the key or use the radio power wire.

Wouldn't I have to pull the whole radio out to get to it?

As for the switch panel? I really don't know what your talking about.

btw, I'm appreciating the help, thanks
 
Now with the cigarette lighter, what wire am i tapping into? I tried it already, and it works, but I have to turn on my lights for it to turn on.

As for the dimmer switch, this was in the vfaq I believe, I don't quite understand what it means when it says use the dimmer switch knob, do I just poke it out with a screwdriver? Also wouldn't it be the same? My lights have to be on in order for the gauge to be on?

The wire to tap into off the cigarette lighter is the blue wire. It has nothing to do with your lights being on/off. Its a switched power line. Tap into that line.

If that doesn't work for some strange reason unknown to man, buy a test light and find a switched power line.
 
The wire to tap into off the cigarette lighter is the blue wire. It has nothing to do with your lights being on/off. Its a switched power line. Tap into that line.

If that doesn't work for some strange reason unknown to man, buy a test light and find a switched power line.

Totally forgot that the cigarette lighter is a switched power source. That's where my EGT gauge gets its power. :thumb:
 
Thanks, I got it to work, everythings perfect now.

I have a few questions though. After searching and looking at past threads, everyone says that stock a 2g runs 12psi, others are saying 14psi. I used to have some cheap SPW boost gauge and it said I ran 16psi stock and when I did the BCS restrictor it said I ran 18 psi.

With the prosport gauge installed I'm running 12psi, I let off at 5k because I don't like running my car hard, and also because after 5k, t-25s have a breathing problem..

Just curious why I'm only running 12psi, when I did the BCS restrictor mod. Shouldn't I be hitting 14psi?
 
Same here between 12-13 psi. Of course if you still have the stock BCS and BOV thats as high as you're going to see.
 
The T-25 on a stock BCS will spike to anywhere around 15-17 psi with the BCS restrictor removed and will settle to around 12-14psi. Stock Boost should be 14psi, but since the T-25 is so inefficient, it varies depending on the car and turbo mileage/life.
 
Now i know the its only for the lights, but i have a Glowshift gauge that turns on when the car turns on then goes black when car is off. I hooked up the wires, with the 12v wire going into my Turbo timer harness and it works great, but it wont turn off. I have read to tap into the cig. lighter but i dont know exactly what to do. Why is my light not turning off.
 
Alright man ill take a stab at this...


From my understanding you got the gauge to light up when car was on, but once you shut the car off the gauge still stayed lit. I think you said you got your power source somewhere from your turbo timer harness.

If you did take your power from the turbo timer, that means that you got an always live power source. What you need to do is find a power source that is controlled by the ignition. There are numerous ways to find an ignition based powersource, many people tap into there ecu, you can always find a light somewhere that only goes on when the igniton is activated then tap its power. For your application you should be best using the ignition power from your ecu, You'll find it if you open up the lower portion of your center console.(near your right foot while driving)

Once you see the ecu you'll notice four main connectors w/ numerous wires going into each. If you look at the second to last wire, on the bottom row, of the first connector you'll find your power source. If you tap that wire for your power the boost gauge will only turn on when your key is in the car and your ignition is activated.
 
If this is a mechanical boost gauge, and you're only talking about the backlight, you can wire it to your dimmer switch (read the directions for your gauge and make sure a variable voltage is okay). Then your backlight only comes on with the dash lights, and you can dim them all together. Here's the tech article. Did it a few weeks ago, and it worked for me.:thumb:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241353
 
If this is a mechanical boost gauge, and you're only talking about the backlight, you can wire it to your dimmer switch (read the directions for your gauge and make sure a variable voltage is okay). Then your backlight only comes on with the dash lights, and you can dim them all together. Here's the tech article. Did it a few weeks ago, and it worked for me.:thumb:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241353

I was thinking the EXACT same thing...
 
Yup, remove the center console, find the blue wire going to the cigarette lighter connector, and tap into that for the lighting of your gauge. I wouldnt use the turbo timer harness/wiring for anything else including ground. It's on it's own program.
 
wow, now that Picture install guide is what i have been looking for. IO am not good with text only install guides, i need pictures. Thanks so muhc, sry for being a noob tard, its only my begining on modifications.
 
Just wanted to add some more pics so that when people read this FAQ they can have a better idea.

How the boost gauge came. Before Assembly.
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I cut an "X" slot through the steering column boot/cover.
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T'd into the line from the FPS to the intake manifold. Best boost source.
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im having trouble installin a boost gauge in my 1st gen its off by alot....the vac is at 12 on idle and tops out at 20lbs but i know im not boosting that any suggestions
 
I'll agree with Q on the plastic hose. It's much easier to use regular rubber/silicone vacuum hose. The back of the gauge will require a brass barbed fitting; see below. The nylon hose will tend to kink and crack. With a rubber hose, you can just trim to length and it looks the same as every other hose in the engine bay, so it's not out of place. Tee into the vac line between the intake mani and FPR.

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Edit: If you're fairly sure that the gauge is off, I'm fairly certain that you can return it to Autometer for a repair or exchange.

I had to hack around 2 brass fittings together just to get it done this way. Know of a place online that sells just that one fitting?

EDIT: Just found the place, what size do I need? I can't recall what size it is.

Brass Barb Fittings - PlumbingSupply.com
 

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Hey, What is this item? Is this some kind of stock boost control or something? Also my Mookeeh boost control says that I idle at 28lbs of vacume...is this OK? It is a 98 GST 5 speed. Thanks everyone!!
 

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Hey, What is this item? Is this some kind of stock boost control or something? Also my Mookeeh boost control says that I idle at 28lbs of vacume...is this OK? It is a 98 GST 5 speed. Thanks everyone!!

That is your fuel pressure solenoid. If you look in post #15, you'll see another picture of it. Please read the whole thread as your question is most likely answered.
 
Have a megan racing gauge

3 outputs - dimmer, ignition 12v and ground

so from what i understand ignition goes to cigarette lighter.
dimmer 12v goes to the green/white dimmer wire.
What connects to the black/yellow dimmer wire? Is it the gauges ground wire? That part confuses me even after looking at numerous threads.

thanks so much!
 
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