How do I install a boost gauge [gage, guage] on a 1g, 2g? [ merged ]

[herostar]

I agree with forcefed4, switch to the other line because it will always be the exact pressure of your intake manifold.

 

[jccjr1982]

Thanks for the help guys... I originally had it tapped on that line since I seen pics of other people's engine bay with it tapped there, but the instructions from some other boost gauge install I read said to tap it to the line with blue dashes so I got kinda confused and just switched it to the most specifc place I was told to.. (the blue line)

Gauge still reads the same but as said that solenoid isn't always open...

 

[Andrew7DG]

Ok so I just hooked up an autometer boost guage on to my car and took it for a spin. First the guage reads at 0 or the bottom of the mark anyway when it is shut off. now from what I understand the guage should read (for 90 GSX correct me if I am wrong) 18 idle 23 decelerating 10 accelerating however I am getting 21 idle 22decelerating and 8 accelerating (I will recheck that soon)

It seems like the guage is off like 2 psi.
However I was wondering if this could be caused by a boost leak?

Another thing is that the plastic hose is pretty long to the boost guage so if I shorten it would that change pressure read outs?

I will keep testing stuff and posting results

 

[Quasimondo]

Chuck the plastic hose. It gets kinked very easily and that will screw with how well the gauge works.

What is the gauge tapping in to? When you installed the gauge itself, did you damage the housing in any way?

 

[MrBoxx]

I'll agree with Q on the plastic hose. It's much easier to use regular rubber/silicone vacuum hose. The back of the gauge will require a brass barbed fitting; see below. The nylon hose will tend to kink and crack. With a rubber hose, you can just trim to length and it looks the same as every other hose in the engine bay, so it's not out of place. Tee into the vac line between the intake mani and FPR.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Edit: If you're fairly sure that the gauge is off, I'm fairly certain that you can return it to Autometer for a repair or exchange.

 

[Andrew7DG]

Ok so use a small rubber hose instead of the plastic. I tapped into the hose on the drivers side that goes into the manifold. Someone said that is a pretty accurate spot and thats what was said here also. I ran the plastic through the hole that the speedo cable goes through, wouldn't the rubber get kind of pinched there though? maybe not I will try it though.

Unfortunatly I bought the guage used so now I am worried how the calabration is. But when it is off it is at 0 so that is a good sign right?

 

[majik2k5]

Yes, when the cars shut off there is obviously no vacuum nor boost, so it will sit at 0. However, there are countless things that could lead to your vacuum being off. Leaks will throw your vacuum off a bit too. Get some soapy water and run a boost leak test too just to be on the safe side.

 

[Andrew7DG]

So the question is though is the boost reading accuatly enough. How would I tell or test? It is now reading at 10 psi at full throttle. If I did the boost leak test, filled everything with air, did a pressure check with the pressure guage, should the boost guage be reading the same thing? Would the boost guage be reading anything at all?

 

[majik2k5]

Considering where you ran your boost gauge to, I would say that it should read whatever your pumping in with the test. It sounds to me like you have a boost leak though, unless you're still running stock boost.

 

[Dasamary]

My boost gauge is actually off by 2psi. Mine sits at +2 psi or so when the car is off. Depending on the angle you are reading the gauge could aslo throw it off. Are you looking at it head on or at an angle. If its not infront of your face, then you are seeing it at an angle. Look at it head on?

 

[bluetlr2001]

The light part you have a ground and a power. Connect the power to a green/white wire that is located just above your hood release. BE SURE AND TEST IT WITH A TEST LIGHT FIRST. Here is an address that will show you how to hook up the vacuum part.


http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/gauges/boost.html

 

[bluetlr2001]

Heres another one that might help a little better than that other one.

http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205099

 

[highvan]

Well, i took off the T from my whiper hoses, so i could just try to hook up the vac/boost part for now, i hooked the T in between the black hose with the red lines on it, at the back of the motor by the windshield, at idle, it never showed any Vac and when i went for a test run, when i would start out, it would jump to 10 van, then rignt back to normal, then it would only show like 3psi in the boost ?? Is there a better place to mount the hose? also, and this is odd.. and i realize that my in dash boost gauge isn't the most accurate, but after i changed the oil in my car and took some of the hoses off just to check for dirt/oil..etc, i ran the car and it was showing 11-13 psi, but after i parked it for about an hour and did my new boost gauge test run, it was only showing around 7psi? is there a reason that it shows 11-13psi one time, then the next time i drive it only 7 or so? it's happened a few times now?

 

[Andrew7DG]

I have mine on a A pillar so I read it head on. It sits at zero when the car is off. I think it is reading accuatly and I think I have a boost leak by the injectors.

I think what throws me off is that I look at the stock boost guage and I can't believe how inaccuarate it is. I am going to believe the guage itself now.

 

[majik2k5]

The stock boost gauge is actually extremely inacurate after you start modding. It's strictly ECU based. When I was boosting upwards of 17 to 18 pounds and sometimes creeping to even 20, it wouldn't even begin to budge past 10psi on the stock gauge.

 

[MrBoxx]

I'm still amazed you 1g guys get real numbers on your gauge. All we 2g guys get are a bunch of arbitrary lines.

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

Please don't fret over these, alot of the tech articles on VFAQ are DOA. I own a 95 GS-T (rescued and risen from the grave thanks to you guys and King Bear of Deer Park, NY). I have a few guages to install (Autometer Cobalt Series Boost, EGT, Volts, A/F, and Oil) As of now I am installing the Boost and EGT guage in a Guage Cluter Pod (one pod on the right of the sterring wheel and the other pod on the left of the sterring wheel). On VFAQ I can't find the "How To" on a 2g. Alot of the FAQ's show people installing them in a Pillar pod, I am not using a pillar pod at all due to the fact I feel it draws unwanted attention (cops and robbers).

1) How do I install these Guage sinto the Cluster pod?
2) When installing each guage into the car should I tap power into different wires to prevent dimming? (I am running a Yewllow Top Battery, with S7 Reverse Glow Guages, Flip Out 7 in screen, Sony Explode Components, 2 Amps (1 for sub and one for speakers), 6.0 Farad Cap, and a 12 W7)
3) When taping the manifold for the EGT Guage, I assume the manidolf has to be removed. Is there anyway to to tap for the EGT with out removing it? Tap it somewhere else? Like the 02 Housing?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[wret]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165221
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192009
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165221
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192009
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Yes I saw those already exspecially the guy with the 1g with the Pillar pod installed.
I own a 2g and I am not using the pillar pod. I using the guage cluster pod. DO I run the wires the same way?

Wret I saw your write-up on sintalling the EGT...I just got done with my 2 hour African class...maybe my brain is not functioning right when I read your FAQ. Did you drill into the manifold and break through or Did you drill half way into it w/o breaking into it. I assume you did this...Drill through the Heat shield until you break a decent amount of the manifold but w/o puncturing the inside, allowing the shavings to get inside. The manifold gets hot to, so I assume your taking the temp from the manifold not the air being passed through?

Where do I connect all these positive power feeds w/o jepardizing dimming of the guages?

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

Can someone please get in touch with Wret? I tired looking up his profile to PM him but I can't see it? ANyone know him? Give him a shout for me. I saw he replied to a topic earlyu this mourn, so I asume he forgot about this one?

 

[wret]

You rang?

The EGT probe must go through the manifold runner so that it is positioned in the exhaust stream. Remember EGT is exhuast gas temperature, not exhaust manifold temperature, which would be way too slow reacting to be meaningful. Yes, I drilled through the manifold with it still mounted on the engine. Many people do it this way (with the motor running at the point that the drill penetrates the manifold). The type of probe in the write-up has the advantage of requiring a much smaller hole (less metal shavings) and no tapping for threaded fitting. If you measure precisely, you should be able to drill straight through the shield and then through the manifold without removing the shield. If I were following this write up I would probably chicken out after drilling the shield and check the position of the hole on the manifold before continuing.

As far as the gauge lighting goes, you need a power wire, typically from the cigar lighter, and a wire from your dimmer switch for the night lighting.

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

You rang?

The EGT probe must go through the manifold runner so that it is positioned in the exhaust stream. Remember EGT is exhuast gas temperature, not exhaust manifold temperature, which would be way too slow reacting to be meaningful. Yes, I drilled through the manifold with it still mounted on the engine. Many people do it this way (with the motor running at the point that the drill penetrates the manifold). The type of probe in the write-up has the advantage of requiring a much smaller hole (less metal shavings) and no tapping for threaded fitting. If you measure precisely, you should be able to drill straight through the shield and then through the manifold without removing the shield. If I were following this write up I would probably chicken out after drilling the shield and check the position of the hole on the manifold before continuing.

As far as the gauge lighting goes, you need a power wire, typically from the cigar lighter, and a wire from your dimmer switch for the night lighting.

Well, I honestly didn't care for dimming my guages when needed. I heard when wiring all to the dimmer switch the lighting of the guages is effected already. I just rather have them connected to a power source that activates when I turn on my lights. Right now I am thinking about wiring my reverse glow guages (from the inverter) to the Power supply that directly plugs into the sterring wheel. For power sake Wire my power from my boost and EGT guage to the Dimmer switch since there so close(via sterring wheel guage cluster). The other guages and reverse glow guages will be hooked up to the Ciggy lighter, and something else? Suggestions? I don't want my guages at different dims.

I don't have the EGT guage on me (its in my car at the shop waiitng for me to install) Its an autometer Cobalt series Guage. Probe is the same size as yours? Was you car at idle? Or someone had it reved a certain RPM? I don't want to FUBAR anything, I just spent 7 months reviving the car from the dead and piecing it together with brand new parts!

 

[vr4gasmtt]

I just got a prosport boost gauge, and I know where to tap in for vacuum and a boost line, but I just can't find a place to power it. I spliced into my turbo timer for the 12v power, and i grounded it at the same place as my turbo timer.

With the car off and no key in the ignition the boost gauge is always on. I know its just an LED gauge, but it can/ will drain my battery, and on top of that I didn't get a blackface gauge for nothing.

How can I get it so that the gauge lights up when i switch to ACC?

I've searched and seached, but to no avail....I really want to get these in and take the car for a run.

Anyone chime in.

 

[blazebolt]

I just got a prosport boost gauge, and I know where to tap in for vacuum and a boost line, but I just can't find a place to power it. I spliced into my turbo timer for the 12v power, and i grounded it at the same place as my turbo timer.

With the car off and no key in the ignition the boost gauge is always on. I know its just an LED gauge, but it can/ will drain my battery, and on top of that I didn't get a blackface gauge for nothing.

How can I get it so that the gauge lights up when i switch to ACC?

I've searched and seached, but to no avail....I really want to get these in and take the car for a run.

Anyone chime in.

Use either the cigarette lighter light or the dimmer switch knob. The light on the cigarette lighter is the easiest to access.

edit: just realized that you want the light on when the key in the ACC. In that case, you need a switched power source like the one on the radio. That is the easiest one to get to. You can take a voltmeter and probe around for others.

 

[vr4gasmtt]

Now with the cigarette lighter, what wire am i tapping into? I tried it already, and it works, but I have to turn on my lights for it to turn on.

As for the dimmer switch, this was in the vfaq I believe, I don't quite understand what it means when it says use the dimmer switch knob, do I just poke it out with a screwdriver? Also wouldn't it be the same? My lights have to be on in order for the gauge to be on?