How do I install a boost gauge [gage, guage] on a 1g, 2g? [ merged ]

[Catbox_95]

Sounds like the gauge is bad. Can't think of any other reason that would happen.

Congrats on the purchase. Man, a '91 AWD with just 60k miles from original owner? I see that you are new here. Welcome. You should be warned that a purchase like that will make 90% of the people on here jealous!

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Easy way to test would be to unhook the line from the back of the gauge, and listen, put your finger on the line to see if it sucks. If it does, obviously the gauge is no good.

 

[stirpicult]

thanks for the quick replies. ill give it a check tomorrow.
and as for making everyone jealous, i know. i think its kinda cool.
and thanks for the welcome.

 

[AromaoGSX]

Now i just installed my boost guage "autometer carbonfiber series" but im only getting boost. My vacuum stays at 0 all the time any suggestions would be appreciated thanks alot guys!

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I would start your own thread. Also check the line's to see if you kinked one or it is bent somewhere and it only reads boost when air is being forced in.

 

[jepherz]

Now i just installed my boost guage "autometer carbonfiber series" but im only getting boost. My vacuum stays at 0 all the time any suggestions would be appreciated thanks alot guys!

You tapped into the wrong port. use the P port on your intake.

 

[AromaoGSX]

well i read on vfaq that you can tap into the one you said but they said the better one to tap to was the solid black one which is located under the blue stripped wire located on the fpr. Please let me know if im right. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

The best place is right before your fpr. Find your fpr and take off the vacuum line htere.

 

[jepherz]

You can tap in either the P port, or the line going to your pressure regulator. I've read that some people think the regulator line is better to tap, but I don't see why. If you ask me, P is better because if you have a leak, it's less likely to affect your fuel supply, and if you still have your fuel solenoid hooked up, you're going to read no vacuum on hot starts.

 

[93whitelaserrs]

where do i hook a boost gauge up at

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

If it's mechanical, T it into the hose that goes to the FPR.

 

[gstowner]

Hey guys
Im installing my boost gauge and air/fuel gauge. They have smoked lences. Got them all wired up and the air fuel is lighting up great but the boost gauge in always lit up. I wired the boost and a/f lighting wire to my acc. on my cd player. Then I tapped my a/f hot wire to the ecu hot wire. On my boost though I ran the hot wire to the battery wire on my cd player. So im guessing thats the connection thats making it do that. How should I wire up the hot wire then? Input? Thanks

 

[luvmygst]

Hook the wire from the boost gauge to the same place you hooked the other one.(the red wire on the cd player) You need a source that cuts off with the key so the light foes out when you cut the car off.

 

[Matrixhunter]

Just hook up the boost light bulb wires to the wires on the dimmer switch that way it will turn off with the car and you can dim the boost guage with all your console lights.

 

[Chaddycakes21]

^^^^ Did you do this Matrix hunter? That is a great idea, ill have to do that with my bright ass autometer C2 gauges.

 

[Splitpi]

I have a question on the electrical harness for a Greddy Boost Gauge w/Peak hold.

The wires are labeled:
1) RED (12V Power Source Line +) ... I assume constant power source
2) ORANGE (Ignition Power Source) .... I assume ACC line
3) WHITE (Parking Light Line) ... I assume parking break switch line
4) YELLOW (External Warning Option) ... I am not using this

Are my assumptions for 1, 2 and particularly 3 correct?

If my assumptions are correct, then I'm just going to tap all this off of my TT wiring harness off of the ignition and get the parking break switch signal from the TT as well.

Not to double post... but I did some more googling and RRE (bless their hearts) had already answered my question on assumption 3...

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/greddygaugeinstructions.htm
Red Constant power, 12v. This can be found on the red wire of
your turbo timer. Otherwise use a test light and probe for
power with the ignition off.

Orange Switched power, on with ignition. On your turbo timer use either
the green or blue wire at your turbo timer. The cigarette lighter
is also a good place to get switched power. Use the black
wire a the center of the lighter.

White Power for lights. We normally connect this wire with the orange
wire to switched power. The Mitsubishi dash light wiring uses
a floating ground system. This makes it so that you cant hook
the boost light to the dash lights. If you want the light to go on
and off with the lights you need to connect the wire to the tail
light circuit. The wire harness that runs along the rocker panel,
under the carpet has this wire. Carefully slit the loom cover to
expose the wires. The tail light wire is green with a white stripe,
with dashes on it. It is usually deeper in the harness and not
the green/white wire right at the top.

 

[micus]

ok so i just got my new mbc in and it came with not tubing, i am wondering what size tubing i need to i can go pick up alot of it at the parts store, and its vaccume tubing correct? so yeah, what size is the nipple off the wastegate ? also, my boost guage i just got came with no "T" fitting

 

[silver bullit]

go to a home depot or lowes and a T connector for the hose they should have it at advanced or auto zone in the section for the guages should be vacum or some type of small radiator hose will work

 

[ndilo21]

Just pict the T's up at an autoparts store or local harware store, same with the hose, just standard vacuum hose. Your boost guage probably came with the thin plastic line, but most people switch that to rubber vacuum hose as well. Might as well do it at the same time.

 

[4G63Boosted]

Well I just installed my Megan boost guage, but upon starting the car, I see that it is reading around 35 in/Hg. So I take it for a little test spin, and realize the guage is reading boost only, and on the vac. side of the guage. As the boost increases, the closer the needle gets to 0. I have the boost source coming off of the FPR solenoid, solid black hose. What in the world could be making it read like this?

 

[TRBOBLU]

Is it tapped in like this?

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[4G63Boosted]

Exactly like that. After getting over ebing pissed off about it, I went back out checked, and the needle at rest is at 15 in/hg. So looks like it going back to DSM Parts. I think I'm going to change out for an Autometer. The Megan is terribly hard to see during the day, and I'm not too fond of that.

 

[majik2k5]

The Boost gauge is a piece of cake. Once you get the power and ground ran for it, you'll need a little extra vacuum line and a t-fitting. Run the line from the boost gauge into the engine bay, and then cut the first vacuum line in the top right corner of the engine bay. Run the t-fitting there and then on the open end of the t-fitting, add the extra vacuum line and then put the line from the boost gauge into that line. Here are some pictures for reference.

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How to run your T-Fitting and vacuum lines off of it.

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How to run the line from the boost gauge to the vacuum line off the t-fitting.


Here's some reference points for the A/F gauge.

http://gc.dsm.org/faqs/2gairfuelgauge.htm

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-2G.html

 

[jccjr1982]

Hey... I installed an eBay Boost Gauge, Here's how I hooked it up:

12v Ignition Wire to "Gauge" Fuse
Ground to Car Chassis
12v Lighting Wire I capped off (no use, gauge will not light up if I connect this to the "Gauge" fuse)

I'm pretty sure I got the electrical portion right.

What I'm confused about is the pressure line. I searched and there are so much debates on which is the best line to hook it up at ("P" port vs. FPS)

I followed the instructions here: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/u_boostgage.htm

But all the images are broken, so it doesn't show where exactly to hook it up.


Here are my questions:

1: From the pics below, is it hooked up correctly? The hose its tapped to has blue dash lines on it...
2: Is that 2nd pic the FPS (one with the blue dashes on the hose)? (because thats where the t-fitting is tapped to)
3: My boost gauge reads about 20 InHG (vacuum) at idle. Is this normal?


When the turbo makes its obvious spool noise, thats the only time it bumps past 0 PSI. Otherwise its always in the vacuum portion of the gauge. The max it ever went to while driving was 15 PSI (floored), and it dropped steadily to about 12 PSI.

So is this operating correctly?

Also, Is there any pin-point proof on which hose is best to tap it to?

 

[forcefed4]

the first pic is the FPS(fuel pressure solenoid), the second pic is the fuel pressure regulator. You will want to move your tee to the other line on the FPS, the one that goes to the intake manifold, sometimes that solenoid closes and you won't get an accurate pressure reading.