How did you break in your stage 4 xtd clutch?(searched)

[habitatguy187]

The stage 4 is great. All the people who have problems with them always have the sprung discs.

As for your questions about break-in, don't even worry about it. Maybe drive 20 or so city miles like you would normally before you launch it but that's all.

 

[donniekak]

I used on on a galant vr4 with an hx40 at 30 psi, and also used one in my talon at 35psi with a 20g. They rock. I hot lapped my car one night at an empty track, and ran probably 10-15 1.7 60's with no slipping. This was in about a 45 minute time frame.

 

[silvreclips]

Guys seriously.. All he wanted to know was how long to break the damn clutch in. There is no reason to sit here and bi*** ab whether or not its a good clutch or not.

To answer the OP question it depends on the facing on the disc. A stock organic clutch does not need a break in. Neither does ceramic or sintered iron discs. If the disc has a kevlar facing than most manufacturers recommend 500-1000 city miles.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

-Blink- Well this is an exciting thread.

I actually just installed one of these and will be running it very soon. It is not my proper choice (A TMZ Southbend) but I wanted to give it a shot. For the price and the time I spent actually speaking with the company over the phone, I decided I'd give it a shot.

I called them up - The first guy was a little difficult to speak with but I eventually got someone that was able to communicate well. Ironically the first person was Indian. (No racial offense here.) I went over the choice options, pointed out that I disliked driving on an unsprung disk, and decided to go with a sprung 6 puck and the stage 4 pressure plate. The Stage four is a 2300# plate and is -not- stock. The red ones I am unsure of. I did make sure to compare the pressure with a Stocker that I have here upon arrival and it is heavier.

The disk seems well made and hefty. The pads are held fast, no lightness, no rattling, etc. I did also find out that they have started using better captured disks to avoid the springs popping out. Should look into this - something ACT hasn't caught onto yet. I am not a fan of "You want to go fast then use more clamping force." and just increase the pressure of the plate upwards of 3200#'s on an organic disk. Seems like a 'cheap' company has even taken note of this.

These guys back the clutch for 6 months and/or a 12,000 mile duration. For this I have snapped a picture of my mileage and informed them of this - that this would be a feeler. They set me up with a good price, a letter detailing the warranty, a 2300# pressure plate, and a sprung 6 puck disk.

For the record the TOB actually seems very well made to be off-brand. I'll be writing a review on this specific clutch setup as I break it in, after I break it in, and up until I replace it in January with a TMZ Southbend.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'm curious Kei, how are you comparing the pressure of the pp's?

 

[Calan]

hey i have that clutch on my car, it holds 20-23 psi all day long

How does you telling me your xtd clutch holds 23 psi all day reinforce anything about the quality.

What 4g63t said.

What does telling us the amount of boost you are running have anything to do with the clutch at all? There's a pretty big difference between 500ft/lbs of torque at 23psi and 120 ft/lbs of torque at 23psi.

Anyway... I see about 90% of this thread disappearing very shortly.

For the record the TOB actually seems very well made to be off-brand.

But you still tossed it in the trash and went with an OEM TOB... right?

 

[Sebba]

Damn sebba, whats wrong with you? You need to calm down bro. Relax.

I'm calm as can be. Douchebaggery gets douchebaggery in response.

 

[boostadd1ct]

Wow what's up with all the haters in here on eBay stuff?

I've done my research and stage 4 seems worth the try.#

Not asking about if it's worth getting.


Just bc it's cheap and sold on eBay(not name brand doesn't mean it won't do the job, there's Always an exception)#

Example eBay turbo called y2k are worth about $350 is proven to hold 500+ whp

It's big over in theturboforums
Proven to work.

I personally use one in my datsun 260z with 302.

Intercooler and pipes is another that is fine for majority of the modders here.

I'm not saying all items are good I'm simply saying few have great success and should not be thrashed by someone who hasn't tried them. There's a few good ones out there it just takes research.


Whats next eBay intercooler pipes are trash and I should spend double or triple that for a name brand pipes? Lol





And btw stage 4 UNSPRUNG had the highest success rate out of all the stages and sprung vs. Not.

Which is why it's what I picked.

Guys seriously.. All he wanted to know was how long to break the damn clutch in. There is no reason to sit here and bi*** ab whether or not its a good clutch or not.

To answer the OP question it depends on the facing on the disc. A stock organic clutch does not need a break in. Neither does ceramic or sintered iron discs. If the disc has a kevlar facing than most manufacturers recommend 500-1000 city miles.

Perfect just what I was asking. The unsprung disk I got is ceramic so great. No break in needed then.

 

[bastarddsm]

My last XTD was a spring hub 6 puck. I was making about 550 at the tire with it when I was last at the track. On a good launch it would slip. I made about 25 passes in one night no lie, I was there from 5pm to 4am, and used a full tank of E85, . Every pass was an 11.60 or better, a couple passes it slipped and I peddled it the entire pass. I also did a light burnout on every pass. My stutter is set to 6500, and i build 20psi on the line. The clutch is still in good shape other than some heat marks, and I am putting it back in once I get a few 10's under my belt, and I dial the car back down some.

this was on a sprung hub 6 puck stage 4. The hub is still nice and tight. Can't beat that.

 

[StarFawkes]

I would say the biggest problem with the XTD clutch is they are a gamble. When I started my build there was a thread going around about how well the XTD stage 4 was working out for everyone, so I went for it. I guess I got a disk from a bad batch because it started slipping after 120 miles. I tried to keep driving the car until my ACT twin disk came in but after 178 total miles the clutch slipped so bad it became unbearable. The ACT costs 5 times as much but I can see it lasting 10 times longer. No disengagement issues, no clutch drag, no slipping, Advanced Clutch Technology.

Edit: I do still have the disk and PP but they are in the car at a DIY shop. I'm going back there this weekend to do some more work and I can snap a few pictures to post here.

 

[TSI_93]

Never had a problem with XTD...

Now act on the other hand. Worst clutches ever.

 

[bastarddsm]

I would say the biggest problem with the XTD clutch is they are a gamble. When I started my build there was a thread going around about how well the XTD stage 4 was working out for everyone, so I went for it. I guess I got a disk from a bad batch because it started slipping after 120 miles. I tried to keep driving the car until my ACT twin disk came in but after 178 total miles the clutch slipped so bad it became unbearable. The ACT costs 5 times as much but I can see it lasting 10 times longer. No disengagement issues, no clutch drag, no slipping, Advanced Clutch Technology.

Edit: I do still have the disk and PP but they are in the car at a DIY shop. I'm going back there this weekend to do some more work and I can snap a few pictures to post here.

Well no kidding it'll slip if you run that 6262 hard at all. Thats just common sense. Its only a 2300lb pp.

 

[TSI_93]

Lmao. Comparing a XTD stage 4 vs a twin disk? Thats like comparing bottle rockets and hand grenades.

 

[StarFawkes]

Ok, its also comparing a quality product vs taking a cheap way out. For what its worth, I always did the speed limit, never launched it, never went WOT, it was all normal driving. Like I said, from reading many threads on this clutch it seems to be hit or miss, that's why you see some people swear by them and some people absolutely hate them.
I'm not here to tell anyone what clutch to run, I just shared my experience since I did own and run this clutch. Honestly until the day it first slipped I thought I got a great deal on a clutch.

 

[boostadd1ct]

Ok, its also comparing a quality product vs taking a cheap way out. For what its worth, I always did the speed limit, never launched it, never went WOT, it was all normal driving. Like I said, from reading many threads on this clutch it seems to be hit or miss, that's why you see some people swear by them and some people absolutely hate them.
I'm not here to tell anyone what clutch to run, I just shared my experience since I did own and run this clutch. Honestly until the day it first slipped I thought I got a great deal on a clutch.

i guess you must have the worse luck. Not even the shitty f1 clutch that I had on the 5.0 slip that fast. you sure it was a clean install?

I already pass that 120miles just today on my double commute .



and the twin disk act costing 5 times pretty much makes me cross it out of my list.

no clutch is worth that IMO b/c of what I need them for. I mean not everyone here is pushing over 500awd. I bet majority is pushing roughly 3-400awd.

if you got the money to put up the money to make 500+ why cheap out on the clutch?

but for US guys thats running 400 or less I think this fits right in the budget.

I cant even justify paying 600 for a turbo

 

[StarFawkes]

Yes it was a clean install. Anyway the reason I bought it in the first place was because it was advertised to hold 545hp. And you're right that most people don't need a twin disk, even I didn't need it, I just wanted the capability to hold the power without a heavy pedal. I won't deny that the XTD clutch will work for some people.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

But you still tossed it in the trash and went with an OEM TOB... right?

Absolutely.

 

[bbarnumboy]

I recently removed my ACT 2600 that threw a spring and installed the XTD stage 4 6 puck unsprung. I already had a light weight flywheel installed with the ACT 2600 kit,

I drove it for 2 miles without boost, then about 15 miles with boosting every so often.

Day 2 drove the car hard on my way to the drag strip for about 45 miles. Did 12 runs at the drag strip at 24 PSI on a Big 16G with launch control set at 5k.

Never skipped a beat. The clutch held strong, never slipped and has continued to be the best $160 disc and flywheel kit ever. I installed a forged clutch arm and OEM throw out bearing at the same time.

My ACT disc is a paper weight now.

You do not need to break in a puck clutch. Put it in slip it a few times or do a burnout or something and you are good to go. I have never broken in a puck clutch before. The 6 puck unsprung SPEC clutch in my BMW didn't get a break in period either and it has about 14,000 miles on it and it still grabs hard.

 

[silvreclips]

You do not need to break in a puck clutch. Put it in slip it a few times or do a burnout or something and you are good to go. I have never broken in a puck clutch before. The 6 puck unsprung SPEC clutch in my BMW didn't get a break in period either and it has about 14,000 miles on it and it still grabs hard.

This is not true, A puck clutch can be made with any facing material on it. A kevlar 4 puck clutch does require a break in period where a ceramic or sintered iron disc do not. It all comes down to what facing your disc has on it as to whether you need a break in period or not.

And also a break in period does not consist of a burnout or something... its easy city driving without dumping the clutch.

 

[bbarnumboy]

I know what a break in on a Kevlar clutch is but This topic is about the stage 4 XTD which is a 6 puck unsprung Ceramic/Sintered Iron Clutch.

Therefore it does not require a break in. Put it in and go boost!

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Since I posted here and whatnot, I wanted to update this.

I recently began driving the Talon with the Sprung 6 puck Stage 4 XTD clutch assembly. The pedal pressure feels nice, it engages very crisply and sharp, but will slip into a smooth engagement if you're light on the pedal. No noises. No debris. No rattling - but also no launches or hard driving yet.

I'm sitting at about 200 miles on the break in period which I feel is absolutely needed, personally, regardless of friction material used on the manufacturing. This is on a stock AWD Flywheel and stock OEM TOB. I will post more on it once I reach the 500 mile mark and start driving it hard. As for now? I'm happy with this test clutch.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Update : Full disclosure.

The XTD has failed. At exactly 507 miles the clutch began slipping at 8psi on a 16g, half throttle, flat road, at 4.3k rpms.

The XTD was a combination I requested from the company itself. 2300#lbs pressure plate with a sprung 6 puck clutch disk mated to an OE Flywheel resurfaced to spec. The car saw very careful and light driving to 200 miles. After that boost was given making no more than 12psi at half throttle. Clutch grabbed and held perfectly. At 250 after a casual no boost drive the clutch started making noise. Clutch peddle engagement height changed slightly. At 400 miles in the same casual driving condition the clutch noise was a bit more audible but went away after a few minutes of idling. Clutch still engaged and grabbed nice and smooth. Boost was kept at a minimum and absolutely no launches or WOT scenarios were present. At 500 miles I began noticing a loss of power. Figured it to be a boost leak or ignition. Car seemed fined. Boost leak test showed a few small leaks. Plugs and wires looked great. Afrs were still steady. Took the car down the road and gave it a half throttle 3rd gear boost to 12psi. At 4.3k rpm the clutch began slipping causing my rpms to immediately spike to 6.8k.

Overall? It lasted 500 miles. As a test clutch I suppose I can deal. I am disappointed as there are reports of people beating on this clutch right out of the box and it does fine for thousands of miles but this one seems to be the typical 'bad apple' everyone states they are.

For $170? Eh.

 

[Sebba]

We did try and tell you.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Why do people keep saying that? It wasn't installed to last a lifetime. I figured it would fail but wanted to test it out for myself and see how it held up. Look at it as more willing research. I am presenting data for the community to use in their choice of clutch. My clutch of choice is TMZ which will be ordered in about a week to take this ones place. However there are people who are undecided and may look at this combination. This experience which I took note of every 50 miles can be posted in complete length once I'm at a PC and used by someone unfamiliar with the clutch.

At least try to be a little more open about the aspect of product research.

 

[bastarddsm]

What are you guys doing to these clutches? . It's installer error. A wet paper towel should hold a 16g at psi. I really don't get it.

Seems like the same people that have problems with these clutches are the same people that, can't keep a car together in general.

I don't know what can be harder on a clutch than doing burnouts with a 3400lb AWD with 550whp. I've been running them since 2008, and had several of them, and never had a bad one. If they would make a 2900lb PP, I'd still run one.