How are people eliminating active toe in 1g's these days?

[decathect]

I'm looking to start tracking my car more, and eventually do SCCA/NASA with it, and I want a good fix/solution to active toe. Are there cheaper/DIY alternatives other than the relatively pricey Jays racing kit?

Kinda sucks that 1gs get very little aftermarket support anymore, but what can you expect from a platform that is now nearly 20 years old!

Post pics of how you eliminated it, if you have them!

Thanks!

 

[ENICKB]

Maybe make yourself some restrictive steel cables to stop suspension travel, my buddy had problems with the allignment going very TOE under launches, so he put cables from the frame to the lower A-ARMs to stop travel at a certain point. Sorry if this doesnt help.

 

[decathect]

no, that doesn't help, i'd never do that on a road race/HPDE car. 1g's also don't have A-arms on the rear. It is a trailing arm.

 

[govproperty]

Crap, I have been saving up for a kit. I was going to do it when I did my subframe bushings. But check out this link for some DIY stuff. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/254735-dss-trailing-arm-toe-eliminator.html

 

[pneumo]

cut out the rubber and weld in a couple large diameter fender washers to lock the front part of the trailing arm to the rear tubular section. That's how we did it before the kit came out.

 

[decathect]

yeah, that isn't good, that will cause your suspension to bind or jump unexpectedly because the stock end doesn't have enough travel. The suspension moves in an arc and not a straight line, so it needs to be able to easily deflect. If I do anything I'll try to have a 'plug' made with threads that fit a heim end, and then use high misalignment spacers to mount it to the stock location. The most difficult part will be the plug.

 

[Tyeler18]

Hm... I may have to start making these. I was planning on buying the jay racing kit but they're sold out. Definitely not a hard design to make.

 

[decathect]

Not at all. You could easily figure out the size the plug would need to be, have them drilled/tapped, and just include a heim joint. You'd then have to weld them into the arm. I'd pay a bit more for the luxury of not having it machined myself.

 

[Tyeler18]

Or just make a whole new arm that would replace it entirely, obviously cost would increase greatly but it'd be a good upgrade.

 

[decathect]

That'd be quite a bit harder. You'd have to get all the geometries right, and provide a strut mount, lower and upper control arms, bearing housing, caliper mounts, sway bar mount... and it'd have to handle the stresses the suspension sees. Without pretty significant testing, you'd have to overbuild it and it'd probably be heavy and not much of an upgrade.

 

[bastarddsm]

Just make a solid busing for the end where it attaches to the cross member.

 

[Jon91TSi]

I have a BNIB Jay Racing toe eliminator kit sitting on my work bench..

 

[RipperXX]

Jay Racing has them still listed, as "Sold Out". This does not mean there not still making them. If I were you I would pick up the phone and call them, ask when more will be available.

 

[decathect]

I think I will be going a different route. Just seeing if there were any other tricks/products out there... that would actually perform well.

 

[shane90gsx]

I just bought my active toe set. Just arrived yesterday. They are even on sale right now. 175. Why do you say you can't get them?

 

[decathect]

I stand corrected. The website must be incorrect. I'll fix my original post.

 

[Jay Racing]

Yep, still in stock here. Just a few more sets though until the next batch is done next week!

Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit For 1G AWD DSM

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[shane90gsx]

Yep, still in stock here. Just a few more sets though until the next batch is done next week!

Jay Racing Active Rear Toe Eliminator Kit For 1G AWD DSM

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Hey Jay, any chance of an active toe eliminator set for a 3000gt Vr4?

 

[underradar92]

I made my own set, in the time gap between when DSS stopped making them and Jay picked up on them again and I can tell you, considering the cost of the Heim joints and the labor and materials, these are at a very good price point from Jay Racing.

No, I will not share my drawings so don't ask.

 

[cioc]

I turned two giant washers to sandwhich the factory attachment point after all the rubber was burned out. These were welded in place and then painted to avoid rust. I've had no binding or ill effects thusfar.

 

[goodbye]

Unless you have a lathe at home and the necessary skills to use it, I'm not sure why you wouldn't just call Jay and order a set. I still have an old Taboo speed shop kit I need to install or I'd buy Jay's in a heartbeat, it's the best looking piece I've seen yet and very fairly priced.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Well here is a video of the Jayracing piece being installed. This was just done last weekend so I have not had a chance to drive it yet, but my results will be different than others because my rear got a full makeover.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/428746-jayracing-active-toe-eliminator-install-video.html

Another added goodie that is overlooked is the beveled edge. This aids in sinking the weld down into the metal to insure a good fit. This may be a small detail, but it goes to show that there was no aspect that got overlooked.

If you have a welder and a torch, this install will not take long at all, just remember to measure and make marks on the trailing arm before dis-assembly. I chose this route because it was the best choice for me. I do not have access to a lathe to make the spacers, much less to cut down the slugs. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Robert

 

[Ludachris]

Considering what needs to be done to effectively eliminate the active toe, the Jay Racing kit is quite cheap (though I guess not for the typical DSMer who wants everything to cost less than $20). It's cheaper than the original DSS kit.

Another cheaper option, which I have on my 1G at the moment, involved welding on a split washer and using a poly bushing (Taboo Speed Shop sold the washer back in the day before they folded). It's not as effective as going full solid heim joints like Jay's kit has. I need to grind off my old washers so I can weld on the Jay Racing solution here at some point.

All in all, I'd say the Jay Racing solution is pretty cost effective considering the R&D, the design, the parts, etc, that you're getting. Jim touched on the cost of the heim joints alone. To do it right, you'd need to have the fab skills and tools. Without that, you can't do it better for cheaper than what Jay's kit offers. If you can do it yourself, more power to you. If you're just looking for a cheap alternative, there isn't one that will be as effective.