How am I boosting with my wastegat open?

[ian7321]

I just rebuilt my engine and am breaking it in and am doing some WOT pulls and to be safe I dont have my actuator arm hooked up to the wastegat but am getting about 12-13psi somehow.

I have a 14b ported to hell, the wastegate chamber is ported to hell and the O2 housing is gasket matched.

Look at my profile to see my mods.

Any ideas?


-Ian

 

[PRESSURIZED]

It will still boost, but in the higher RPM's. Once you have all that air going, even with the wastegate open the turbine will still spin enough to make boost. And with mods such as an exhaust you will still get boost creep. So in the end you might hit 12-13psi but it will take a while to spool.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

why are you boosting when you are breaking a motor in ?? wtf

 

[chicagoavenger]

why are you boosting when you are breaking a motor in ?? wtf

I was thinking the same thing

 

[Quasimondo]

He's doing it the Motoman way. Highly controversial method, to say the least.

 

[aero_sallee]

He's doing it the Motoman way. Highly controversial method, to say the least.

Thats the way that I went after my motor build. I would not call it highly controversial at all I've seen alot of the knowledgable DSM people recommend it also. I've had no problems with my motor from doing it that way. I don't have a huge amount of miles on it (15,000) but it doesn't use any oil or show any ill effects.

 

[slugsgomoo]

I would not break in a motor WITHOUT beating on it, as it will seal better than going easy on it, EVERY TIME.

My motor does 195psi across the board, after being beaten on for 5k miles, from the very get go (9:1 pistons, your compression may vary, etc etc)

 

[pneumo]

I also break in my motors with the Motorman method. The Haynes manual also recomends a similar break in method. Coincidentally, I also break in my motors with the wastegate actuator unhooked and I also see boost climbing as rpms go up. It's normal. Just keep the rpms low enough so you don't build too much boost. There's a difference between doing several short WOT pulls with plenty of cool down in between to break in a motor and beating on it.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

although this "motorman method" has been done before (with new and older cars), I can't seem to justify not breaking in a rather expensive motor. I think I would rather just take it easy for the first 3k miles and have at it after that. after all, better safe than sorry.

 

[slugsgomoo]

if you don't put some pressure on the cylinders, your rings will never seat before all the honing marks are gone. A motor that is broken in with the "motorman" method will always seal better than the slow & easy way. It worked for domestics back in the day because tolerances were loose, and honing went deep.

 

[bjones18]

although this "motorman method" has been done before (with new and older cars), I can't seem to justify not breaking in a rather expensive motor. I think I would rather just take it easy for the first 3k miles and have at it after that. after all, better safe than sorry.

The whole point of the Motoman break-in is the first 50 miles. A local engine remanufacturing business also recommends semi-beating on it.

According to these two resources, you do NOT want constant RPM during break in. You want throttle on and throttle off.