Horrible Miss

[XiKeiyaZI]

Alright, so here we are pulling the car onto ramps to check for indications of bad timing due to a RPM Band wide miss. Come to find out, the car barely wants to pull onto the ramps...Okay. Running a bit rich and great compression, so the timing has to be off. Sure enough I pop the lower timing cover off, line up the mark, I'm off perhaps, at most, a half tooth. Now, while I don't think this would make a major effect, I have to keep in mind that I am running with a decked head and block, so the center relation is a bit off as well as these adjustable cam gears. The Intake cam is Zero'd, but the exhaust cam is 2 small notches retarded. Nice. There's my timing issue.

So, is there a way to simply advance the cam gears without removing the timing belt? I figure if I did this as it is, it would advance the intake cam 2 tiny notches and zero out the exhaust cam. Also, as these are reground 264/272's on a decked head and block.. should they go more? I, unfortunately have no way to degree these cams....and would be fine with just zeroing them out but I'm afraid that they'll actually be retarded so much the car will lack mass amounts of power.

Any input would be great.

Note : Actually looking at the pictures now that I'm not outside being irritated, with the exhaust cam being naturally retarded but advanced as far as the timing notches....I'm off a full tooth on the exhaust cam, huh?

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Now, should I zero them both out and redo the timing and leave them zero'd, Or should I redo the timing with them zero'd and then rotate the entire assembly to put them advanced small notch or two? I suppose leaving them Zero'd until I can get a degreeing tool or hit a Dyno will be the best bet. The only other things I can wonder is if -this- would really make such a loss of power/miss as I've driven a car which was off a full tooth and it wasn't near this bad. Also, wouldn't compression be lower instead of 185PSi across the board?

Now, before I drive this into a field and burn it, or trade it for a Honda, I need to figure out exactly what the hell is wrong with it. It has a bad miss at ALL RPM's. It's stuttering. Smells rich. My Wideband has not arrived yet, however, via link I am cycling between -2/+2 Est AFR. The gas is old and she's low, so perhaps it's fuel condition?

Note, it's missing at IDLE.

- I have swapped the cas around as it was 180* out. No change.
- Tested all injectors. All good.
- Wires are Good
- Plugs are good.
- Haven't been able to test the coil pack.
- AFPR holds at 42psi, so it's not a fuel filter
- Fixed all vacuum/boost leaks
- Timing is correct now
- Car runs best when CAS is adjusted Counter-Clockwise
- Car has ZERO power. It doesn't want to move up ramps
- Resistor and Transistor wiring have all been wired correctly.

Now something about the resistor pack - The PO had 3 2G injectors and 1 1G injectors in the rail. Would this cause issues or possibly burn up the resistor pack? If it was bad, would the car even run at all?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

^ Close to what Bogus informed me to do, though he suggested to find true TDC via the crank, thus which means that the timing on the crank as it is right now may not be TRUE TDC. So I would make my own mark on the crank in relation to the timing mark on the block which would signify true TDC after I find where TDC is with a dowel in Cylinder #1, then do my timing as usual, degreeing the cams if needed.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Retimed. Holy HELL was it out of time from TDC. At the crank it was 5 teeth. At the cams, 2 teeth in each direction. No valves were ever hit and compression was STILL 185. I have no damned idea how this happened.

Anywho, I found TDC, made my mark, timed it via the stock cam gear marks, rotated 6 times, checked, and was 6*out via the exhaust cam. Unlocked the exhaust cam, rotated the cam itself clockwise until the mark I made was lined up with the timing mark on the intake cam. Rotated it several times - it was MUCH harder to rotate with sparkplugs in, no valve contact. Start it, set the base timing. No backfire. No miss. Sounds like a diesel now. Revving to 3K produce BOV whistle. Took it for a drive - Builds boost retarded early. Like 1800ish, everything seems fine besides it slowly trying to heat up.

My new issue - Transmission will not shift gears. =/ It just climbs and climbs.